slngsht

well, since you are handy with the fluke, see if you have 12V to the switch.

Orange is very nice - as is yellow. White is growing on me as well (hey Hank )

color is a matter of personal taste... brown doesn't do much for me, but then again you've seen what my car looks like LOL I'd stick with bright colors in a seven

if that doesn't work, look at the fuse and relay block. Not sure about Cats specifically, but alot of cars have 2 different flashers - one for turn signals, another for hazards. you'd want to make sure the flasher is getting juice. If it is, and signals are not working, you can also switch flashers to test and eliminate that as a problem.

IMO, 911 (not the torture thing, but the fact that it happened), just like the economic meltdown was not a pub / dem issue. Neither side took the necessary steps in hind sight.

New bracket... I do still need to space the heim a little bit so it won't have interference from the bracket.

probably just take it off the car and wash it down from the back side. Glad the damage was not any more.

My Rotus was melt-your-toes hot. Now that I'm not running a hood, and my headers just go straight out of the body, it's MUCH improved.

rob, what do you mean by another notch at the end?

agreed.

nicely done Gert

when I make the new arm, the mounting point for the steering tie rod will be a little bit closer to the center of the wheel, so the length of the steering arm will be shorter. so the same rack movement will turn the wheel more. I will not moving much - because it also means higher effort.

I see your point. You are correct. lowering the rack is not possible due to interference between steering shaft and alternator.

shhhh... trying to fix the turning radius at the same time LOL

The rack is bolted to a sloped member... moving it up or down will move it back and forth too.

I'd have to raise the rack, not lower it. That's one of the problems of modding an existing chassis... that'd require alot of hacking (not that i'd have a problem with that) - It'd be easier to mod the uprights or make new ones.

LOL. like 8 bucks from home depot. I have to weigh my car again I have to muster another productive day and make some steering arms

the steering arm on the vette upright is massive. short of an impact on the wheel, I don't think there will be a problem, but I don't like the stacked washer solution either. that's exactly why I'm going to fabricate a new arm that uses the wheel bearing mounting locations and goes to where the steering heim is now - so that I don't have the bending moment from the long stack of washers... This is a very crude drawing of what I'm talking about

heh, funny you say that. when they went head to head, I always pulled for Prost - exactly for that reason. I really didn't appreciate Senna's unbelievable talent until after he was gone.

well, i tried a little video. I wish I had shot one before the modification to show what I was seeing. In the vid you will see the wheel does not change its direction as I raise the car. The same is true when I lower the car, although I could not demonstrate that without removing the spring again. Prior to the change, you could clearly see the wheel change direction when raising and lowering the car. Here is a pic of the stack of washers. I will replace the stack with a detachable arm that will bolt on using the highlighted bolts.

yeah... back in the day, you'd have to start by jumping in the car. pretty fun to me.

i agree. the last F1 race I watched still had Senna in it. Big tires, big power.

I will get one later today. It's basically a 3" spacer at this point. I'm going to make a new steering arm that bolts on to the upright. I don't like the bending moment on the bolt the way it is.

Started out by doing the rear pads on the minivan, followed by making a garden box for the kids. On to the seven part of the day: When I got the car back on the road in February, I didn't have the springs I wanted on hand (even though I had 4 extra pairs around the garage). After all the mods, I was able to run drastically lower in the front (About 3") and all my springs were too tall. So I used the softest extra spings I had, which compressed to the right height. I didn't get around to addressing that issue until 3 days ago, when my new springs arrived. Still have to do the rears. The other problem I had developed as a result of the drop in height, was bump steer. I didn't really notice it too much in turns, but it was drastically noticable when hitting bumps on the road... the steering wheel would shake in your hands. So today I made a home made bump steer gauge and looked at what was happening. The solution was to add a spacer to the outer side of the steering tie rod. At the moment the spacer is a bunch of washers, but by next week, I'll have the proper sized aluminum spacer machined and in place. Just came back from a test drive, and the results are drastic. going through bumps translates to no movement in the steering wheel. Turn-in is much crisper - I think this is because previously compression would cause a toe out, which countered my steering input. I'm very happy with the results. I still have to double check my toe-in to make sure I set it right. Oh, all this, and still managed to take the kids to the pool. I'm freaking BEAT!

Great idea John