Push-button replacement for Dzus fasteners on Caterham nose.

[pethier]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY5MBRHS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

This is the item I used to replace all four of the Dzus fasteners on my Caterham.

 

It required a bit of thought and fettling, but it is completely worth it.  I can remove the nose quickly with no tools.  Replacing it take a bit longer, but still less trouble than dealing with the Dzus bits.

 

It is more-difficult if you have clamshell fenders attached, but I was successful.  I recommend removing the fenders so that you can drill out the old pop rivets.

 

I will have a link to pictures soon.

[pethier]

Here are the pictures.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/albums/72177720318497133/

 

 

Once you have installed the conversions. removing the nose is simplicity itself.

 

Remove engine hood in the usual manner.  You will have to pull up a bit harder on the front hood springs than you are used to, since you have relocated the upper hook.  I have found this is easier on my back if I put my other hand over the upper control arm and the sway bar.

 

Stand in front of the car and push in the upper buttons.  The nose will pop out on each side.  Spread the nose until the button-halves clear the balls.

 

Lift the rear of the nose until the nose slides up over the headlight/fender brackets.  Let the nose rest there.

 

Push in the lower buttons.  The front of the nose will fall into your hands.  Guide the nose forward away from the car.

 

To refit:  Reverse the procedure.

 

Align the lower fasteners first.  Since the fiberglass and the chassis tabs are rather thicker than the sheetmetal these things are designed for, the balls protrude farther.  You will get used to guiding the balls into the holes in the button halves.  Press up the outside rim of each lower button housing with your index and ring fingers.  Your tallman finger will feel the button pop down to match the housing.

 

Spread the top of the nose as you tilt it down into place.  You may have to move to one side of the car and use one hand to pull rearward on the mouth as your other hand guides the button over the ball. Press in the housing until the button pops out.  Move to the other side of the car and repeat.

 

You will soon learn to do this without having to look under the car.  No more searching for a Dzus tool, dime, or penny.  No more scratches on your clamshell fenders.

 

Edited August 12 by pethier
addition and error cleanup

[pethier]

Anybody else willing to try this?

 

 

Installation has been worth the effort!

[inchoate]

Those push buttons are cool.

 

I ended up making a dzuz tool with a #3 hi-torque bit and a mini hex ratchet.  Works much better than a snoopy tool.

[wdb]

I just use a washer.

 

I replaced the underside Dzus fasteners with these. Much easier to deal with down there.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBYNHMF/?th=1

 

[JohnCh]

The 620 nosecone places the lower Dzus fasteners on the side where they are much easier to access.  I wonder why they don't standardize in that location?  

 

 

-John

[pethier]

4 hours ago, inchoate said:

Those push buttons are cool.

 

I ended up making a dzuz tool with a #3 hi-torque bit and a mini hex ratchet.  Works much better than a snoopy tool.

And that clears your long (clamshell) fenders?

[inchoate]

1 hour ago, pethier said:

And that clears your long (clamshell) fenders?

 

yes, and because it's a mini ratchet you can position it at any angle you like.  my fasteners are a little stiff, so the extra leverage is nice to have.

[Austin David]

I used a leftover washer from my build for 2 years.  I don't pull the nosecone much so it was tolerable.  I tried making a tool using a penny but the penny bent (!!).  I acquired a larger, hardened washer recently and filed it to the right thickness, but that's not much better than the first washer -- it's hard to align under the cone, and hard to get much torque on it with my knuckles.  A few weeks ago I got a "coin" driver; it's easier to turn, but basically has all the same downsides with alignment etc.

 

I may get annoyed enough to try @wdb's butterfly on the bottom.  The top fasteners work ok with a washer.

[CBuff]

I may eventually to a permanent change to the hardware. In the interim I got this which works well

 

Bryke Racing Quarter Turn... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D954QJO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[pethier]

2 hours ago, CBuff said:

I may eventually to a permanent change to the hardware. In the interim I got this which works well

 

Bryke Racing Quarter Turn... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D954QJO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I don't have to look at your page to know that you have cycle fenders.  There is no way that tool is fitting with a clamshell fender. 

Edited September 21 by pethier

[IamScotticus]

I did the butterflies. Good solution.  Just get the stainless version.

mine rusted.

[MoBoost]

Can someone please point me to stainless butterfly Dzus fasteners? I’ve looked in the usual places and not found a stainless version. Thanks!

[MV8]

Southco makes stainless, winged dzus in standard and lion types.

[CBuff]

They used to be cadmium coated but I think the environmental folks didn’t like that. They also have zinc coated. 
 

these are more expensive but are powder coated (and black).  I have not ordered from this place so no first hand experience. Not sure if ours are #5 or #6
 

https://dragracesolutions.com/black-butterfly-winged-head-fasteners-5-16-500-4pk/

 

[IamScotticus]

3 hours ago, MoBoost said:

Can someone please point me to stainless butterfly Dzus fasteners?

I thought I had bought some.  

I will look...I perused the usual vendors,  nope. Nada. 

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

This is a very informative thread.  Thank you.  I'm going to try one of the alternatives when I do a rebuild this coming winter. My attachments for the snout are so worn and damaged that at present the entire molding is held in place with wire ties.