CBuff

I just blew a fuse replacing a 3rd brake light wired into the flashers on my new build 420. My fuses are flipped but in this order (washer fuse is the bottom). This should orientate you for the flasher relay. the flasher unit 10amp was the fuse that burned out for me

I just ordered a new grill from caterham parts on 5/2. Lo and behold it showed up in my door step on 5/7. I was shocked it was so quick and no issues. Maybe a smaller cheaper part didn’t get bogged down in customs. It’s was $140 or something like that.

Get it done. You are living up to your moniker far to accurately. Need a cohort on the streets to reduce my chances of being detained by the po po.

I believe the sv seats are wider than the s3s. I have leather sv seats and like them a lot. Put 5k miles in them last year. I don’t believe the sv leathers will fit in an s3 chassis. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seats/2599-leather-seat-s3-complete-with-runners.html https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seats/4742-seat-leather-sv-including-runners.html

Double check with caterham to make sure they are correct for s3 leather seats. I have an sv and have to pull my seats all the way forward to reach pedals. (No lowered floors). https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seats/6619-seat-runners-620.html they have them included with the seat purchase so I’m sure you can source just the rails. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seats/2599-leather-seat-s3-complete-with-runners.html One of the importers in the us might have them in stock. Josh (rocky mountain). Or Greg time machines. https://rockymountaincaterham.com https://timemachinesmotorsports.com

Sounds like you might be tough to beat in njmp in June.

Congrats. I think there is a fish and chips run coming up If you are feeling extra adventurous.

I have sv with leather seats. The Cadillac of caterhams.

You can pull files via WiFi on your phone. If you were doing any serious amount of downloading you would want to pull the card out. It’s a new built 420 so the tunnel top is just held in with two screws (which I dont think actually engage any thing and aren’t really needed). To fully remove it you need to fully engage the parking brake and remove the shifting knob. But the unit is duo locked down. I can just raise the rear of it without dealing with the parking brake or shifter and slide it out. No seat removal needed. that photo of the unit is with just the rear raised (parking brake and shift knob intact). Sorry the photo is upside down (I guess I need to reread the idiots guide to uploading )

Baubles and bolt ons continue. Not sure if this is in the appropriate section. Thought I would stick with my thread but John if you think elsewhere feel free. I have been running with my go pro mostly to have the footage. But there are some rides which I don’t necessarily want to run the go pro on. But I have gotten paranoid that that would be the one ride I get into an accident and have no footage of it. So I have been looking at some type of dash cam. Something that just does it’s thing without me thinking about it. Since I run aero and windshield the usual dash cams didn’t seem to cut it. I looked at a couple of motorcycle cams and it came down to innov k7 and the vantrue f1. They seemed close in spec but I ended up going with the vantrue https://www.vantrue.com/products/f1?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21406118547&gbraid=0AAAAApFeVW861eMfk2QFgghzpO46VTEHh&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMfABhCWARIsADGXdy-sQqFEHZULYC9OIyfPGwbINKdPGQ6sZFn8exB8Zikuk3N1b3-qHPUaAl0IEALw_wcB I thought about mounting cameras in the cockpit, by roll bar etc but really wanted it out of sight and not get bumped in the cockpit or roll bar. Crossed my fingers that the cabling would be long enough for the install since you can’t get extensions apparently. Since you need to pull the sd card to grab lots of footage (you can download certain clips via your phone). I want the main unit accessible but out of the way. Under the arm rest seemed like a good place again assuming the cabling reaches ). Cameras the rear one seemed pretty straightforward. Just stuck to the fuel tank cabled up thru the drive shaft tunnel to main unit. It’s a 1080p camera. You can also pull it up on your phone if you want a reverse camera. The view the front camera was a bit trickier. Not wanting it on the scuttle. One idea was to mount it under the headlight but I couldn’t make it look right to me. The other idea was to mount it behind the grill in the nose cone. The challenge would be to secure it in there, have it detachable for nose cone removal , and how to see thru the grill. I found a small scrap of aluminum and drilled some mounting holes and painted it I drilled one hole and then a rounded a slot for the other screw so that I could adjust the up and down as I would be mounting the camera on its side. The camera mount only adjusts up/down so when mounted sideways it is left/right. I chose the side of the nose cone as the lip is much smaller than the bottom and also keeps it away from the radiator. Mounting at the top made the detachment point hard to get to. the nail biter part was cutting the hole in the grill. But if I totally jacked it I could get a replacement relatively easy. For now I just framed it with a 1” rubber grommet. It works well. The ultra wide angle camera (4K front) does catch a good bit of it into the frame. But it doesn’t bother me too much. If I pull footage from it I would likely crop and zoom in a bit anyway which would cut that black circle out. The 4K should allow that. But again I will use the go pro for the most part for any footage I really want to use. I could enlarge the hole and move the camera further out but for now I am happy with it The pigtail from the camera just reaches the back of the nose cone so I can disconnect it to remove nose cone. lots of zip ties for the cable. since I already did an auxiliary 12v power system with lots of spare fuses I just put the ign and constant power thru that. The remote for the cam is attached to the above the knee trim panel on drivers side. Easily reachable with harness on to trigger pictures or saving files etc. it also has the gps unit and speaker for alerts etc. all in all I am happy with it thus far. It does have some WiFi software glitch that I am trouble shooting but don’t think it’s an install error. But I may be corrected on that.

I think my seat rails didn’t get installed perfectly straight so the drivers seat doesn’t slide easily. I have leather seats so I take the squab out and use my foot on the front cross bar of the seat frame to muscle it forward. (While holding up the release lever). I rarely move it so not too worried.

John can confirm but I think we have the usa7s.com domain and it redirects to net. Not sure of everyone’s loyalty to the .net but I don’t think it is as critical.

There are some topics on this center mirror blocking. Some folks lower it down, others raise it way up and some remove as you have done. I usually street drive with the windshield (but a lowered mirror). https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=101&t=1266391