CBuff

If you are worried about wire bulk. I took my first dive into wiring to add some auxiliary power in my 420. It was over kill but I used mil spec wiring. I was shocked at how thin the wires are. (And it is not cheap. But short runs shouldn’t be too bad ). a quick search showed the headlights draw up to 5amps which 22 gauge wire should handle. But if you go up to 20 gauge I think that’s rated up to 8.5amps. The wire is super thin and won’t bulk up with multiple runs. But it is stiffer than regular wire. but please do your research on sizing the wire correctly. not that you likely want to rewire the entire assembly https://www.milspecwiring.com/22AWG-Solid_c_400.html

Ordered. Thanks. @JohnCh and @Outbound

@JohnCh is this the mirror you got? https://zoom-eng.com/en/collections/モナコ-エアロ-ts-コンパクト-リトル-ペンタ-ルームミラー/products/コンパクトルームミラー単体-車種取付用アーム別 was it the small or medium size ? Do you mind sharing the mounting arm you used ? Sorry. Just re read the thread assume it’s the h03 general arm and the small mirror.

Is there a predetermined correction for measuring to the Ali skin? Or just measure both front and rear to Ali and it’s consistent. (I switched over from Avon zzs to Toyo r888r and I think there was a jump in front tire diameter vs the rears ). Although I never check ride height and rake with the avons. I feel like now is a good time to dial it in.

BFH seems to have done its job, The front stay is longer and bends easier. Although I was shocked at the amount of persuasion it needed. I think the front stay is good (may have to revisit if I get the Hoosier 195s). The rear stay (on the front fender) is shorter to the cross brace so harder to bend. I think i created some clearance but might have to improve this some more.

I average just shy of 20mpg with regular cruising at 80 which puts my tach at 4100 rpm. More spirited drops from there a bit.

I have the Bruce fuel mod which works well 420R. The first half of the tank lasts longer than the second half. I usually run it down to fairly solid on E and it will take 7.5-8 gallons (SV so 10.8 gals minus the roughly 1.5 unreachable). One time at the track i got distracted and buried the needle on E. It took almost 10 gals so maybe the 1.5 is overly safe but I dont try for that. Here is NY they have taken the auto locks off the pumps so you have to hold it anyway. With some practice you can judge it but 1/4 of the time i still have spill over.

I have to imagine (even with the less expensive mechanic options). Multiply that by the number of cars across multiple countries requires @Croc to keep the work revenue coming in. last I heard that 2021 unplanned stop vehicle is still there. Not to mentioned how many cars (@crocaliasbringatrailer) has that no one knows about. I look forward to continuing to invite myself down to njmp and eventually tour the garage-mahal when all the cars come home to roost. Hopefully I’m not using a walker at that point.

@Croc good to know there is a “correct path” to fixing it. I ordered a BFH and will try and create some space. If I destroy the stay will order the 15” ones. Again not loving the thought of removing the fenders and re-glueing them. But I didn’t think I could do a lot of things when I started all this so another challenge. want to try and get some level of clearance for the Hoosiers to work before I purchase them. Need all the cheat codes to try and keep up with you and Blake.

And I won’t take offense to the “flat” green comment on the color choice.

Congrats on the acquisition. I got my 420r June 2024 from Greg. I didn’t have the space (or likely the skills) to build mine. So likely not helpful in the build questions. But I have gotten pretty familiar with the car and can check anything since mine was factory built (so I’m 60% sure it’s correct). I just passed 10k miles since June 2024. Get yours done by Oct and come down to njmp for the annual get together.

Yeah mine are sikaflex or similar on so ideally I wouldnt have to remove them. But it might be unavoidable. I also thought about elongating the hole where it’s mounted to the upper an arm thereby pivoting it more towards the car. I feel like I could get enough clearance without wildly making it out of level.

So baby got some new shoes. I couldn’t wait for nova to get their act together so went with the Toyo r888r. It’s tight on the fronts. Went for a quick test drive and didn’t see any contact. I think the real test will be on track. Deflection might cause contact. I did feebly try and bend them in situ with a block of wood and a hammer. Not sure they moved at all. Might try ratchet straps when I take the nose cone off to give me a little more room. I have a set of Hoosier r8 sitting in my shopping cart. They are very close to the diameter of the Toyos but I think the fronts are wider and will likely foul. Any insights on creating some space would be welcome, ideally without removing the fenders from the stays. I have little to no room on the outside so I don’t think spacers will work. but the new tires are on and work, at least ripping around town. ps to give you an idea of how close it is. The tire pubes contact the stays

You can always go Geoff’s route.

A morning run with my son. Checked in with @BlakeJ

@JohnChThat is the cleanest nether regions of caterham I have ever seen. You might have shamed me into polishing more

Sounds like you have some electrical gremlins so it might all be related. My radiator fan stopped working on my inaugural drive. Turns out the connector by the front cross strut shook itself loose. I made some slack and zip tied it together.

I believe @Crocsaid we would be using the pass. But he is such a BMOC at njmp maybe we can pick.

interested to hear your first hand experience @Croc if your not jet setting around the globe.

Sometimes I roll with the large umbrella for spots showers (when parked). Or to just keep the sun at bay. For me umbrella pole fits between seat and tunnel (sv leather seats). And I put an elastic strap around the handbrake to secure. https://a.co/d/06WdnJhu but this is a static solutions I would not move the car with this deployed. indoor cover is not weather resistant. But I use it indoors or as a layer before any outdoor cover. My indoor cover with tarp solution works because the ceiling in my space is somewhat questionable in heavy rains. It is a rare occasion that my car will be outside static for any duration. I have become less precious since the interior gets wet even when I wash it.

I use the caterham indoor car cover and then just have a tarp over it for extra protection inside. I did have a seal skin outdoor cover (for a miata)for a brief time when I needed to keep it outside. It was comically too large but it wasnt ever meant for long term. I also put the interior cover on first to protect the paint and then draped the seal skin over that. One thing to consider is trailering. I think they recommend using the storm cap vs the shower cap if you ever are going to trailer it. https://www.softbitsshop.co.uk/showercaps--stormcaps-53-c.asp Thus far I drive everywhere so no need to have a cover. Just used the half hood. But if I got a long journey i guess I can bring the full hood.

No personal experience with Wisconsin. Maybe @fred.lemke can weigh in. I have 6 pt schroth harnesses that have buckles that some DMV dont say pass but it wasnt an issues in NY. Schroth makes an FE harness with different buckles which I assume are designed to pass some DMV requirements. I would check the DMV website and see if you need any inspections to register and out of state car. https://competitionmotorsport.com/products/schroth-profi-ii-asm-fe-street-legal-4-point-harness?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18137912543&gbraid=0AAAAADp5hZly4QYE5Rdglkyz2EhwIz_6o&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkMjOBhC5ARIsADIdb3cvsZdLqDELIFzVdd90SK1rq0uvht7TBshKnpvJJD2-inzkOrNA-KIaAhoFEALw_wcB At least in NY, the bigger issue is emissions. Some cars are titled as Custom Vehicles (or home made), they are exempt from regular emissions testing. Some who have brought cars in from out of state that were previously registered title and register it as a Caterham. But if it's under 15 years old they are required to have emissions testing. This cannot be done with the electronics in a caterham. While it does have an OBD type port under that dash, it wont register anything at the inspection station if they plug into it. And if they are able to read anything it will throw errors all over. You could also check with Time Machines Dealer, I believe he has shipped a few to Wisconsin. He might have some ideas. https://timemachinesmotorsports.com/?gad_source=2&gad_campaignid=22969170867&gclid=Cj0KCQiAk6rNBhCxARIsAN5mQLsCVw_9U4qrZe6ZDU176SuN4_GZJvFbr-32_VY3ugadaCFed03P4EYaAuOVEALw_wcB Good luck and have fun!!

im guessing @captain pabst

I was told it was a direct swap since the 2000 series had the smiths and same power train. But once I got the costs to source all new gauges I backed away and didn’t really get final confirmation it was truly plug and play.

@slowdude the car would need to be running to make it to turn 3. kidding. Get it going today. Your presence is missed.