Drakman

Hi, correct me if I am wrong but my 2014 de dion car is ET 23P. I always thought CSR used ET 13P is that not the case?

Hi Carl, Thank you for your response, I understand that Jenvey say the best place for the injectors is in the manifold/ITB's. Do you know if the gain would be worth moving the injectors? Dave

A quick call out to the brains trust here, Is there any measurable improvement (HP, Torque or drivability) obtainable by moving the fuel injector location from the cylinder head to the ITB's with Jenvey ITB's in a Duratec 2 liter? As an aside is there any difference in using extended injector tip injectors. I currently have Bosch green giant injectors located in the cylinder head, i have been thinking about going to ITB located injectors so i have to change the injectors to a shorter version to clear the air filter and the Bosch 380 cc high impedance, 12 Ohm extended tip version has been recommended. Is there any information/data, dyno results either way on this? Cheers Dave

Thank you for the information Doug.

Hi Doug, Do you know what just the wheels weigh without the tires? Did you run cycle wing front guards or clamshells? If cycle wing type did you have any trouble with tyre clearance with the wing stays? Dave

Hi Guys and Girls, I am looking to experiment a bit with wheels and tyres. I have a set of the original Minitaur 14 x 6 inch wheels that came with my 2014 Roadsport and i recently purchased and fitted a set of 13 inch x 6 and 8 inch K&N Caterham wheels. I am trying to find a set of Caterham 15 x 6.5 inch Orcus 6 spoke wheels to fit my 2014, De Dion Caterham. I would prefer to find a set of well used rims as i am going to powder coat them anyway so pristine wheels would be a waste. Cheap is better because they will cost a fortune to ship out to me. Has anyone here got a set they aren't using and want to sell? Thanks Dave

Just a thought, take the fuel cap off and try, if the cap is vented and the vent blocks it creates a vacuum in the tank and a no fuel flow issue results. The other thing is a few years ago there were quite a few fake NGK spark plugs being sold, mostly through Ebay, Chinese copies that produced the symptoms you are describing. A quick rough and ready SU flow check, take the float bowl top and the dashpot and piston off, while looking down into the top of the carb pour a little fuel into the float bowl, you should see the fuel overflow out of the top of the jet. In fact if the float level is right you might even see the fuel in the jet just by rocking the car, the fuel level will obviously be the same in the bowl and the jet. Dave

Lol, that old saying about not letting my wife sell my toys for what i told her they cost applies here.

I hope this will wake the 2 liter duratec engine up a bit. I love a good jigsaw puzzle, i guess it all goes somewhere.

Hi, I use this when comparing wheel and tyre sizes. https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=185-65-14X6ET23&wheel2=185-55-13X6ET23&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm

Yes, just brace yourself and keep applying more pulling power, I'm 6' 2" and i have been weight training most of my life and i had trouble with mine. You need to get some lubricant around the outside of the bush where it sits in the chassis/dash tube. I must stress though that my car is a 2014 SV model, I don't know if your set up is the same. You should be able to see the steering column bush start to bulge out as you apply pulling force, be warned when it comes out you might end up on your back. As long as the key is switched to unlock so that the steering can turn the lock should not impact the column. Good luck Dave

Can you move the steering column at all, in or out? I could move mine in about 2 inches and then pull hard out then it would stop with a resounding bang which turned out to be the larger diameter steering lock hitting the back of the bush. I removed my steering lock assembly (2 bolts) but it didn't make any difference if you look at the pics i posted you can see the slot that the steering lock bolt drops into to stop the wheel turning, as long as the steering lock bolt is withdrawn it shouldn't stop the column coming out. I really think i helped it when i injected the WD40 in around the outside of the bush. I had to pull so hard (that doesn't sound quite right) that when it did come out i nearly ended up falling backward out of the car, if the roll bar wasn't there i might have, so it is tuff to pull out.

Hi Pethier, Mine would move in and out a little, it felt and sounded like it was hitting a very solid metal stop somewhere inside. I even removed the steering lock at one stage because i thought that was what it was hitting. The shaft has a much larger diameter section where the steering lock is located, it will only come out toward the driver. This is my old shaft, you can see the added larger diameter sleeve that is for the steering lock and the rubber bush with the ears. I really did inject WD40 in around the bush it helped a lot.

I don't know anything about the older Caterham's but if your upper steering column is like mine it has to come out the top. Obviously you have undone the slip joint where the top and bottom steering shafts join. Have you seen what the rubber bush the upper shaft sits in looks like? It has 2 ears that catch in the sides of the frame. I used a syringe 5cc case and a 23 gauge needle to inject WD40 in around the rubber bush, with the steering wheel on and your feet firmly planted on the floor pull the steering wheel up toward you. Cover the dash with pillows or something soft, be warned when it comes out it does so with considerable speed. I was told at the factory that when they build the cars now they remove quite a bit of the rubber ears on the bush.

Wow, not sure what happened there. Check the choke fast idle cam has returned and the choke in general, sounds like the choke is stuck on on the front carb.

Hello Guys and Girls, I am going through the process of converting my 2014 Caterham Roadsport 175 to Jenvey itb's. I have contacted a couple of people including Jenvey themselves about the purchase of an ITB setup to suit my car. Some suggest 48 mm, others 45 mm, some with the electronic accelerator actuator and one suggesting converting to a cable. The car is standard with Drive By Wire. Can anyone here help me with the most appropriate option for a mainly road going car. 45 mm or 48 mm? Cable actuated or electronic Drive By Wire? Pros and Cons of either setup? Thanks in advance. Dave

Hi Guys, I cannot for the life of me remember where i found the following information, i think it was on a ford focus forum. There are 2 part numbers (cast into the exhaust side ) that signify the Hi port head design :- RF6S4E and RF3S4G The engine in my 2014 roadsport 175 is a DHE420, which apparently means it is 107KW and 190NM. It has the RF6S4E cylinder head fitted. Take the above as "might be right", i make no guarantees as to the accuracy of it. Does anyone know where i can get a Cosworth big valve ported cyl head? Cheers Dave

Hi Ralph, Have you checked the compression? Is a valve stuck/burnt.

Hi Blake, Thank you so much that is perfect, exactly what i needed to see. Cheers Dave

Hi Guys and Girls, I am about to retro fit a set of individual primary exhaust pipes to my 2014 Duratec roadsport 175. As standard my car has the single exhaust pipe exiting through the drivers/right hand side panel. What i am looking for is the measurements to enlarge the hole for the 4 individual pipes through the side panel. Is it possible for anyone who has an SV/large chassis duratec engine with the 4 individual exhaust pipes to measure down from the engine number stamped chassis tube to the top of the opening for the exhaust exit and also from the lower rear, front suspension A arm cutout back to the front of the exhaust exit cutout? Does that make any sense. Thank you in advance, Dave

Hi mark1V, Silencer arrived safe and sound, thank you. Dave

Yeah, I hear you Bruce, the car is a keeper. If I die, the old adage, "Don't let my wife sell the the car for what i told her it cost" applies.

Hi Bruce, I am early days into my Caterham modifications, I have read about the plastic manifolds flexing/splitting so the aluminium manifold does sound good but in the long run i think my interest is going to be roller barrel ITB's. Cheers Dave