jbcollier

I have the R&T collections of his columns and articles. I can only recall three on the Seven. The first is linked above. The next was on the ghosts in the machine that can be lost by too thorough a rebuilt — ie: if everything is new, it isn’t old any more. The last was after people wrote in concerned that he wasn’t going to strip and properly reinforce the CBU before racing. He assured everyone he actually did.

Yes, definitely original latches. Good suggestions, thanks. I'll start with replacing/adding foam gasketing to give the latches more tension. I also thought adding a small “super-magnet” might also help.

After a couple of short trips, and fettling the few final issues after a major refresh, I went for a proper 700 km round trip. Overall it went very well. Economy is not as good as my Europa but reasonable none the less. Suspension is as good as can be expected with the rear being quite firm on the big bumps. I did some experimenting and buffeting can be reduced to reasonable levels by either shrinking an inch or so, or by adding a small clip-on extension to the door frame. All well and good. However, I was alarmed to find that three of my bonnet latches “weren’t” upon arrival. They all stayed latched on the return journey but I’m afraid my confidence has been shaken. It’s a somewhat original 69 Seven S3 and I’m trying not to stray too far from stock. Any suggestions on how to keep the bonnet firmly in place while I further push back the Seven’s horizons?

Congratulations!! I had to tame my exhaust as well. A carefully thought out system can be reasonably quiet and have little to no negative effect on power. Fibreglass moves on its own with temperature fluctuations. Some deterioration of the finish is normal. I’d say relax and enjoy it!

Land Rover part number AEU1045 fits on the later, metric Triumph Spitfire master cylinder and is a horizontal reservoir. https://www.sp-4x4.com/product_p/aeu1045.htm

I do not know what the tag numbers refer to but the Spitfire cylinder is indeed a stepped bore. It is only marginally smaller though. Not enough, to my mind, to give a 62/38 split. Just a general comment, cheap-Chinese-knock-off is not something I would want for a master cylinder on any of my cars. I only use genuine Lockheed/Girling cylinders. I’m a retired 35 year mechanic. Most of that time was working on British and European sports cars. Here are the failure rates, measured over a year, of the various cylinders I have installed over the years — and I have installed lots. - carefully rebuilt, cylinder only required light honing, genuine kit used: 10% - rebuilt or remanufactured from a jobber: 40% - aftermarket, new cylinder: 20% - genuine, OEM, new cylinder: I think I can only remember one and that was an owner installed cylinder. I have road tested vehicles where the pedal suddenly goes to the floor. It is not a happy moment. I don’t care if a company offers a great guarantee. I only want cylinders that work. I only fit new, genuine master cylinders, period. YMMV

And, rotary engines produce way more waste heat. They get hot.

If you are rebuilding your cylinder, examine it carefully. Take it apart, clean it up and then inspect the bore with a bright light and a magnifier. Light markings you may be able to hone out. Heavy scoring or pitting cannot be honed out. You need to either have the cylinder sleeved or replace it. You decided to hone it? Ok, when you are done, put the piston back in. Loose and floppy? The cylinder is pooched. Myself? I’ll rebuild disc brake calipers but I only replace master cylinders and drum brake slave cylinders. Seen too many “rebuilt” ones fail — and that includes professionally done ones and sleeved ones. YMMV

I’ve never seen a master sold with untapped ports. I’ve seen masters with adapters fitted though.

Yup, spot on. Imperial on the early cylinder, metric in the later. I worked on Spitfires for many of my 35 years of wrenching.

Did a bit of digging. Imperial version: https://mossmotors.com/580-100-brake-master-cylinder-large-cap-trw-lucas-brand-0-70-bore Metric version: https://mossmotors.com/580-115-brake-master-cylinder-70-bore-trw Ports may not be on the same side requiring either short adapters or new pipes. Yes, the reservoir ends up “slanted”, reducing capacity somewhat. Not a big deal in actual use. MV8: interested if you have a link for the Morgan reservoir and which cylinder it fits on. (I suspect the later metric one)

The later ones were. Not sure if the 0.70 master was made with metric ports or not. Pretty simple to make up short adapters, if required.

Dual-circuit, 0.70 master cylinders were used in Triumph Spitfires. TRW replacements are widely available from the usual British sports car parts suppliers.

Your engine will have a knock sensor and adjust to the lower octane fuel, no problem. You may notice it running a little off its former prime and returning a bit lower economy but it won’t damage anything.

Lotus Sevens have exposed pedals. Kind of cool to look at but the engine compartment air flows in quite fiercely. The PO had tried to seal things off with stick-on, firewall insulation. As the pedals move back and forth through slots in the insulation, it wasn’t very effective. I removed the insulation and made up a surround and cover for the pedal area. Worked really well: the Scirocco abated and the driver much cooler. The tunnel and exhaust sides still get warm but the hair dryer effect is gone.

I removed the pedals as I'm fabricating a cover for the pedal box to help stem the flow of hot air into the passenger area. And, underneath, I found the missing chassis number:

Mr Toldfield, which brake lining material do you go with? How did it work out?

+1 on checking that the cap is tight. many tighten in two stages so press down while you turn. I know you probably know this but do check to be sure. If it is tightly closed, then it sounds like either a failed cap or a damaged sealing surface on the expansion tank.

You’ve just changed the rear light units. I would suspect the tail/park wire is grounded.

Mike Brotherwood lists handbrake levers on his site: http://www.mikebrotherwood.com/Parts.html

You’ve got it nicely sorted. You’re happy with its handling, bar the occasional unintended kerbing. I’d say it ain’t broke. YMMV

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I cut strips out of some bulk rubber sheet I had to hand. I also put rubber between the tank and chassis.

The sender just bolts up. You have to make a thicker cork gasket as the thread inserts sit a little proud. The tank itself is slightly lower but the rubber elbow still reaches.

Better