jbcollier

I own a Seven to use, not collect and show. Lots of people see it in action, no worries there. My never-to-be-forgotten car memories from my youth all involve cars found in the wild, not penned up at a show. I encounter a lot of interest in my cars and I always respond in a friendly manner. If they ask and are not obviously filthy, carrying ice cream cones or knives, I have no problem with anyone getting into the car. What annoys me is finding people already in the car when I exit the grocery/store/restaurant/etc. I try not to fall on them and slay them on the spot but it is a difficult urge to control. YMMV

https://www.7-dna.com/eugene/home.html Seems a bit more biased to track days than regular roads.

Then use a three point on the street where it far more likely to have a front collision. There aren't buildings, poles, curbs, trees, or nuts coming at you on the track.

+204, do not use 4 point belts. People have been killed using them.

Edmonton is a dumb place to build a city. Gorgeous, sure, but bed rock is 80 to a 100 feet down. Above that are multitudinous layers of clay, coal, gravel, and other crap. In freeze/thaw cycles, the land heaves like a wallowing water buffalo. Roads don't stand a chance.

Just for your information, the spring fitted was a RedLine Components 75532H. Faulkner confirmed that they make the springs for Redline and the nominal spec is 14" long and a 100 lb rate. I'll chime in again once I have the new 80 lb springs on and the roads have cleared.

Supplied by Redline. Look to be from Faulkner. I was told they were 100 lb springs and they look to be.

Faulkner's got back to me and they are a much more reasonable £125 per spring for a total of $320 not including shipping. Indeed a much more digestible sum.

Don't ask me to explain why, but stacking two springs gives you a reduced rating. With two having the same rating it gives you a working rating half that. Stacking Spring Equation: (Top Spring Rate x Bottom Spring Rate) / (Top Spring Rate + Bottom Spring Rate) = Rate Example: 200 x 200 = 40,000 (Top Spring Rate X Bottom Spring Rate) 200 + 200 = 400 (Top Spring Rate + Bottom Spring Rate) 40,000 ÷ 400 = 100 Rate Curtesy of Landrum Spring It is more commonly used to make a dual rate spring with springs of different rates. You can also add stops that cut out one spring at a set point in the travel. All glorious fun for the hardcore, high-speed, off-roader.

I think we might be comparing apples and oranges. Was your Birkin a live-axle? Were you running narrow tires (165/80R13)? I also assume your Birkin had a proper space frame not a Chapman-ordered, willowy one that the S2/3 Lotuses came with. Yes, the TC engined frames were better braced but mine is a lowly crossflow with a pavement toasting 84 hp.

Sounds ok to me. Below -10°C, I wear a heated motorcycle vest.

I can get the springs made up, no problem. For a reasonable price I need to order 50. For a single pair I’m looking at $1200 to $1800. I think that’s why they’re no longer available. Not enough demand to justify making 50.

Found some old stock at David Bean, 1.9" ID 16" 75 lb springs. Pretty much stock S2/3 springs. That was their last pair though and probably no plans to reorder.

Thanks but those 2 5/8" ID

What is commonly available today is 1.9" ID, 14" long, with a 100 lb rating. These are harsh for road use. Better would be the same with an 80 lb rating. Does anyone know of a source for them? Redline sells 100 lb springs. Otherwise I'm looking at either getting them custom made ($1K a pair) or stacking two 7" - 160 lb springs (may be travel limited).

The latches Lotus used also opened on their own. Flying bonnets were the result. Mine, a 1969 S3, does the same. I'll be exploring ways of keeping the original latches but adding locking safety pin.

In your the first post you stated: "It loses oil pressure when the dipstick shows half a quart below "H" This is a problem. Drop the oil pan and see what's up. You should be able to be much lower on oil and still have pressure. Something is wonky with the oil pump pick up. First though do a compression test and a leak down test. The gods may be trying to tell you it is time for an overhaul.

Rub the "filings" between two fingers. Smooth and paste like? No real issue, except change your oil more often. Gritty and "sharp"? Time to pull it down and see what's up.

White with labels is aviation/military practice and it is to do with fire safety. The coating on normal wire produces toxic gases in a fire. The special white stuff, while not made of mother's milk, is considerably less lethal. All of which is moot in a Seven. Do what you like. It will certainly look "cool' if you go with Mil-spec but, again, I find it much easier to troubleshoot with the coloured coded wires.

I like to run an oil pressure gauge and an oil warning light. You may not notice a suddenly lowering oil pressure gauge until it's too late. This? This you will notice... (from my Lotus Europa)

In Citroens, the wires were all white with numbers stencilled on at either end. 20 years on, it wasn't much fun. I like the British colour coded wires. I can tell what's what at a glance. YMMV

Jack up the rear on one side until the wheel on that side is clear of the ground. Try to turn the wheel off the ground. If you can spin it easily, or with moderate effort, then it is either an open diff or a Quaife (Torsen/ATB) diff. Either of these will run just fine on regular gear oil. If you can't spin the wheel, or it takes enormous effort, then it is a LSD diff. You can still use regular gear oil but you may also need to add a "LSD friction modifier".

You just need to figure out what kind of LSD diff you have and get the oil to match. Testing the oil you have might be useful to catch any developing issues but there is no guarantee that the PO used the right oil. If it is a torsion diff, raising one wheel off the ground and seeing if it spins proves nothing.

The problem with the Triumph hubs is that they are relatively soft and easily distorted if you carelessly use a standard puller without adequately supporting the hub flange. The various factory and aftermarket pullers work much better.

Clearance specs are based on camshaft design and are specified by the cam maker. If you set them too wide, then the cam may not properly use its opening and closing ramps leading to rapid cam/follower wear. "Generally" with a cast-iron, push-rod, engine, you can set the clearances hot or cold. If there is an aluminium head, then you set them cold.