Outbound

Been a year, but I also picked up mine from the Baltimore docks. Was a really fun and interesting experience!

Its hidden inside this Ariel Atom review: Starting about halfway through.

Its easy to order directly from Cobra themselves from the UK. Shipping will be expensive, but so will ordering from a US dealer as they’ll pass those costs along to you anyways.

Also don’t forget, a proper video of it being driven in anger, with a mic that is picking up the exhaust and intake noise (and not just rushing wind) is worth at least several thousand dollars, if not more. Remember that on BaT you are selling an experience. It’s wild to me when people post these caterhams up, and it’s just pictures of the car into the grass in the backyard. And then a video of it puttering around town with the mic getting wind whipped. Do a great fairly short video of the car attacking a fun back road, ripping up through the gears, hearing the intake and exhaust, maybe a few laughs and giggles along the way, and it’ll go a long way in selling the experience that a Caterham brings, whether race ready or not. But yea, if you can make it road legal you’ll easily get another $10k probably.

Don’t really want to have to pay nearly $50-75 to ship a pair of oil filters for the Rover K-Series. Does anyone have a US equivalent PN or a source to purchase stateside?

Spring has sprung and almost into summer already. Got my car tuned yesterday, and a bunch of cooling issues sorted a few weeks ago. Combination of a few things resulted in a brief overheating while sitting in heavy city traffic. - cooling fan thermo switch had gone bad and wouldn’t kick on until wayyy too hot. New bosch one solved that now. - expansion cap seemed to have cracked rubber seals, so probably wasn’t holding pressure very well. - nasty old coolant, now fully flushed. Have a PRRT system here, just waiting on a 32/32mm Tee to show up, and hope that’ll be the last of the cooling concerns. The 1.8K made 171rwhp on the dynojet, which would put it right in line with approximately 200hp crank. But wow, the drivability and smoothness is wildly better. So much nicer to drive now.

Id cancel and do a chargeback to your bank asap if they don’t cancel and refund. This is 100% a scam site.

Hes a part of yawspeed up here in North chicago with another experienced racer (jason, won the 2007 mx5 cup championship), they have a small shop running from the headquarters of gridlife. https://yawspeed.us/ not sure if he’s publicly out about doing Emerald stuff, but Dave is the one who put me in touch, telling me he was the expert here stateside. Will find out in a few weeks how it goes. i ended up doing all the nitron stuff from Jack Webb on my own, but going to let aric get it dialed in. Got those new gauges in as well, next up is still to get the custom pedals designed and made. However i have a new stable mate coming. A 1970 mini cooper track car in the same shade of orange.

I just dropped the car off with Aric Streeter a few days ago to get all the engine stuff done. Sounds like he’s got experience with those DVA maps. In a small world, his shop is only a mile away from my house!

I have a laundry list of things to do for my Superlight R - new Emerald ECU to improve that 1.8 VHPD engine from Dave Andrews - pulleys associated with it. - jack webb road tuned Nitrons - the various bits and bobs to get the bumpsteer and alignment under control. - new gauges and switching to a gps speedo. - machine some nice pedals after some reverse engineering. Have a new Haas VF2SS being installed at my warehouse, and intend to do a few fun projects. - replace the radiator that seems to have a small leak. - whatever else to get it ready for a few track days next year, and just to be able to idle in traffic fine.

They are the OEM units, only difference is that doesn’t have the caterham logo silk screened on the lower lens. Unless you mean buying direct from them? You’ll likely need to buy at minimum 10-20 units as companies like that don’t sell retail.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-31267 Can get them here. Wildly better over OEM.

To fill this thread up with my rambles, here is what I posted regarding the Caterham OEM lights: You can get these NS-Siruis lights from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-31267 I have been running around for a few weeks with them on, and have been pleasantly impressed. The beam pattern doesn't look promising on the wall, but on-road performance is good enough. If I wanted outright performance and beam pattern I would go with the Morimoto listed above. I just wanted the modern OEM look, so went the NS-Sirus (united pacific) route. I got headlight lowering brackets, new bowls, and got it all wired in along with the Caterham rear LED kit. I am quite happy with the lighting. Now just sorting out drivablity and oil leaks.

This car would do EXTREMELY well on Bring A Trailer. I’d highly suggest putting it up for sale on there and have a professional take all the photos and videos for you. Well worth the time and little bit extra money.

They are rebranded lights manufactured by Sirius (http://www.ns-sirius.com/products.php?page=9&plevel=2&pmid1=1&pmid2=4&pmid3=&keyword=) but when I fired them up on my power supply they looked like they have a plenty solid beam pattern. I have a friend who is the optical engineer for Morimoto lighting, and he's shown me all the optical data on these 5.75" headlights he designed and it looks amazing. https://www.morimotohid.com/housing-morimoto-sealed6-led-5-7-5?quantity=1 However, I wanted the OEM look. If I am not thrilled with these oem ones, I might spring for the Moriomoto. Or I'll get them anyways and do a back to back. Ultimately I don't plan on driving the car too much at night (it'll be put away for the winter) so ultimate lighting performance wasn't high on my list. A clean OEM look was the ideal one, and there are a lotttttt of bad looking 5.75" options out there. As far as 5.75" vs 7". If sticking with halogen bulbs, then yea the larger the lamp the better. However with LED it doesn't really matter much. Ultimately could even have a tiny 2-3" headlight with a proper projector and it'd outperform a 7" halogen. Just would look very odd on these cars. 5.75" I think modernizes the look and makes it look lower and wider, so that's why I went down that path.