Origin7

It might just be me being hopeful, but my car cover seems to help contain smells. After regular exposure, the offended party will go "nose blind" and you can carry on per usual.

I intended to spend a few minutes during lunch figuring out a way to mount side mirrors to my car. What transpired was an unexpected journey down the mirror mount rabbit hole. I don't know why I've spent hours upon hours on this, but here we are. First, I needed a good mirror. The SPA mirrors look great, but the mount has a relatively large 2-bolt flange. I didn't want to have to design a mount around the geometry of this flange. I think DPR sells a single-bolt mount, but it's quite costly. Eventually, I came across Life Line mirrors. The FIA Formula in the MSA shape is perfect, single bolt mounting and and it's only $47...done. Next comes the mount design. I fired up the 3D printer and started iterating...over and over and over. I'll never admit how many of these things I actually printed. But, I eventually ended up with 2 versions, which I then iterated upon independently. Here are a handful of the "winners": There are several versions of the "Eccles", 2-beam design out there, including the machined ones that DPR sells. I like this design especially for FDM 3D printing. This is also a good design for production because there is minimal material removal/lower cost. However, I like to be different. I plan on cnc'ing these out of 7075, so this allows me to remove more material. I also tend to like very subtle, simple designs with minimal features. So, I am settling in on this: I think this works well with the car. It captures the square lines, with filleted corners that you see in the Caterham body. I'll test a 3D-printed version and put out the file if anyone else wants to use it. It will be the same basic design but with some areas slightly beefed up due to inherent weakness in 3D printed parts.

Washed, clay-bared, and ready for paint correction.

Well done. Looks clean. I should also mention that matching your socks to the livery of your car is a pro-level move. Well played.

I think I prefer the lines of the MK aeroscreen over the Caterham one. It looks like it fits well too.

Congrats on the award! The car looks awesome. Is that a Caterham aeroscreen?

I just installed one of these; it's the most low-profile cap and breather I could find. Still very close to the bonnet. If I had a threaded hole, I'd do it your way.

No. I realized this after posting. This shouldn't be an issue...thank god. It should be too large to pass through the main jet. It could have come out one of the holes in the emulsion tube, in which case it would be in the bowl. I'll pull the cover off and have a look tomorrow.

WARNING: Inspect all your genuine Weber components before installation. Their QC seems to be lacking. I received a bad banjo fitting a couple of weeks ago. The deburring was not concentric with the ID, and they removed 1/2 the sealing surface. Long story short, it would not seal and sprayed fuel all over the place. Pegasus was great and sent me a new one, which worked perfectly. Today, it was much worse. I was seeing some weird things with the F11 emulsion tubes that I tested. I had one cylinder spitting back through the carb but no other indications of a lean condition. This was only when the mains kicked in (weird). I decided to go back through things and try again. Upon inspection, it was clear there was a machining error in one tube. It looks like the bore for the main jet was not drilled deep enough. As a result, there was a bur above where the main jet seats. I was able to get inside and remove the bur, but the way it was shaped, it looks like there may have been another half-bur at one point. I am praying this didn't get into my valve train. The head was literally just done. Long story short, F11s, 45F9 Idle jets, 00 drain, and 125 mains run quite well. The bad emulsion tube threw a monkey wrench in my testing, but I am glad I found this combination.

I know you guys love pictures (me too)....

I did quite a bit of testing over the last couple of days. I've attached my log if anyone is interested. To summarize, here are my two best setups. This is the factory setup with the exception of 125 mains and 00 pump drains. These changes seem to smooth out the transitions quite well. On the low end, I like both the 45F6 and 45F9 idle jets. For now, I am going to stick with 45F9. I like the AFR at cruise with this setup. I didn't test the F11 tubes with 00 drains, so I plan to do this in the future. For now, I'm happy with how things ended up. Test Choke Aux Venturi Main Air Emulsion Idle Pump Jet Pump Drain Cruise AFR Progression AFR WOT AFR Change Made Result / Notes 5 32 4.5 125 165 F16 45F6 35 0 ~11 ~11 ~11 60 → 00 drain Very smooth, but rich 6 32 4.5 125 165 F16 45F9 35 0 ~12.5 ~12.5 ~14 Back to 45F9 Best so far Weber_DCOE_Tuning_81526.xlsx

Thanks @cobra8214

A quick update on my DCOE adventures: @SENC is correct. Thanks again for chiming in. Apparently, the useful range of the long taper screws is about 5 turns out from seated. With this in mind, I purchased another set of 45F9 idle jets. I tested these with my F11 emulsion tubes and left everything else factory. I found 12.5:1 at idle with the screws out 2.5 turns...perfect. From idle to cruise, it held ~12.5 very well. This resolved the rich cruising condition I've been working on. However, at WOT things started to go lean, as it did previously. Also, I was getting some spitting back through the carbs when I reved the engine. So, it appears I have a bit of leaness somewhere as the RPMs transition. Regardless, I am happy with how the 45F9 idle jets performed. So, I left them in and put the factory F16 emulsion tubes back in. The spitting went away, and the transition from cruise to WOT appeared steadier in terms of AFR. My observation is that the 45F9 idle jets seem to work better with F16 tubes than F11 tubes. It's a bit subjective, but Caterham seemed to have the same idea when they originally supplied these tubes. Long story short, I am back to the factory setup, and things are looking closer to optimized. This setup is probably just fine for people that aren't overly obsessive about this kind of thing. For the rest of us, hopefully this thread saves some headaches. I've tormented my neighbors enough for one evening, so tomorrow I am going to try 125 main jets in an attempt to richen WOT. If that doesn't work, I have 00 pump discharge valves to install. Making progress...

FOUND!

@IamScotticus I put the 55F8s in. Idle was lean (~16:1). I would have had to come out probably 1 turn or so on the idle mixture screws to get it down to 12.5:1. So, that would put me at about 3.25 turns out. My understanding is that any more than 2 turns out is an indicator that you need a larger idle jet. @SENC I am glad you mentioned this. I recall reading about this somewhere. I replaced all my idle screws and springs before I began this endeavor. I got these from Pegasus. It looks like they are the "long taper". I don't recall doing it, but I would typically check to make sure the new matched the old. It's probably worth confirming. I just read that 3 turns out is more of the limit with DCOE 40 151. The older versions 2, 19, 18 run the shorter screws max out at around 1.5. So, it looks like I do have some room to adjust. Thanks for mentioning this! I'll try the EZ turn lube as well.