cobra8214

@11Budlite do you have the part number handy for your thermostat housing cap? My cap is bad and I have the same thermostat housing as you. The standard motorad cap that I tried to replace it with is too short to seal, and it looks like my old cap isn't made anymore.

@IamScotticus @7Westfield Forgot to respond to these, thanks guys! Ended up just getting an intake manifold gasket with a water passage opening. I have bad enough mission creep right now as is, didn't want to add removing the heater to the list of things to do.

I recently did a lot of research on harnesses - I am equally, if not more concerned about safety on the street than on the track, so wanted something that would be great for street driving as well, which was the driving factor for my decision. I decided on the Schroth Profi II 4 pt ASM FE harness, with the sub strap attachment. The plan is to wear the 4 pt harness on the street, and then add in the substrap to make it a 6 pt when on track. This way, I'm covered with a 6 pt harness on the track, and I have a harness for the street that: Is street legal (the FE cam lock makes this so). Probably not a big deal, but I don't want to give any over-zealous policeman around here an excuse to write me a ticket Is easy to put on - I don't have to put on the sub strap every time I want to hop in the car Most importantly, provides protection against both submarining and neck injury. I am concerned about a 4 pt harness making neck injury on the street more likely compared to a 3 pt harness (since your torso is more restrained with a 4 pt), but the ASM component (piece of the shoulder belt that gives way in a crash, allowing one side of your torso to twist forward) helps with this by allowing your torso to move in the event of an accident, reducing stress on the neck.

I've got my 1600 crossflow opened up right now to replace the piston rings, and now that I'm getting ready to put it all back together I've realized I have a potential problem - my intake manifold gasket has the water passage blocked off like this, whereas the gasket that was on there had holes for it like this. Neither Pegasus nor Dave Bean carry an intake manifold gasket with a cut out for the water passage. I'm thinking about getting rid of my heater (already have the blanking plate), and was wondering if this issue is even a concern if I get rid of the heater. I'm assuming the coolant flow is as follows: Starts at the water pump Flows into the heater Flows out from the heater and back into the fitting on the intake manifold, and from there back into the engine If that's the case, am I ok to use the gasket that I have, and just plug up the fittings on my intake manifold and water pump that routed coolant to/from the heater? Or, do I need to connect the intake manifold and water pump fittings via a hose if I remove the heater? If that's the case I'm assuming I'd need to try to cut out a hole in the gasket to match the water passage, or to buy an intake manifold gasket that has the water passage cut out (are there any other US sources people recommend beyond Dave Bean and Pegasus?)? Thanks in advance!

Welcome! For Caterham parts, reach out to Bruce at Beachman Racing, and Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham. Assuming you have a Crossflow engine, Dave Bean Engineering and Pegasus Auto Racing are good sources for engine parts.

I believe it’s going to be dependent on what cam you have in there - newish Crossflow Caterham owner myself, and I’ve been told by people more knowledgeable than me that in order to figure out what cam I have, I’ll need to degree my camshaft and then cross reference that with the different Crossflow cams.

I have the same car configuration as you except 4 years older and am looking to do the same, so thanks for the update! For what it’s worth, I have heard that Spaxs can be very inconsistent.

Go for it!

I have ~1.5 GB of photos, so sharing a link to them on google drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TtbDi3mW_uRAvFwhmFeE3jbEYacKPUXX?usp=drive_link

My seven is in the shop but I’ll be there!

Calendar marked, thank you to everyone who makes these happen. This spring/summer will be my first time on the track in my Seven. I'm putting together my shopping list for the requisite safety etc. gear I need in order to pass the safety inspection: 6 pt harness Helmet HANS Arm restraints Kill switch sticker Fire suppression system Is there anything else I'm missing? Is a race suit required?

Echoing others' advice to try driving one to make your decision, everyone's body and definition of "comfortable" is different. Adding my own experience as a tall, new Seven owner to hopefully convince you. I'm 6 ft 3 and fit comfortably in in my long cockpit S3 with stock leather seats (which add a few inches off the floor and a few inches depth-wise, so I would have even more room in a smaller profile seat. Will be replacing with a poured seat soon). However, my head clears the rollbar by a few inches even without a helmet. My brother is 6 ft tall and clears the rollbar by even more than I do! Height doesn't really tell the full story since the ratio of everyone's torso length to leg length is different. I sat in a friend's SV with lowered floors and still didn't clear the roll bar. So, I'm currently getting a custom roll bar fabricated. I am able to drive fine in a pair of old Vans (size 12), but will be getting racing shoes before the weather turns.

Lol I know your stance on heaters (this is Geoff)!

If you still need one, I'm about to remove the heater on my '96 S3

@Ctcatdid you end up deciding on a place? I'm in south eastern CT and also recently purchased a Caterham that I'm looking to find a solid mechanic for. For what it's worth, a friend who used to race Lolas recommended GMT as well.