supersportsp

I like the idea of a wellness blat!

The battery that I went through three of was a Ballistic Evo II 16. A more square dimension set-up than this one. They are out of business now, hence why the prices have gotten so low. Though, at this price it might be worth the risk again.

I'm lazy and tired of looking. Does anyone have any recs for small/lightweight, hopefully lithium batteries that are sub $300? I tried to run a Ballistic lithium battery for a couple of years, but it died every year, despite removing it and putting it on their charger off and on over the winter. I went through three of them, replaced under warranty. One failed by developing a big scary 'tumor', the other just died. Not surprised they went out of business. JohnCH ran the same battery and had much better luck with it however. I tried to order this battery twice from Jegs. https://www.jegs.com/i/XS-Power/703/LI-S545/10002/-1. It seemed very promising and I was excited to give it a whirl. However, XS Power is apparently a clown show, and they don't seem to be able to deliver batteries on time, if at all. Both times I ordered it, I kept getting updates from Jegs saying the delivery had been delayed, a couple of weeks each time. After two months last summer, I gave up and cancelled the order. When it looked like it was actually stocked by Jegs in late Oct last year I tried ordering it again. Again, delay after delay. I finally called XS Power directly since they drop ship for Jegs and was on the receiving end of a very unprofessional and unpleasant ranting from whomever I talked to there. My battery was supposed to have been shipped as of Nov 7th. As of late December they hadn't even made it yet and weren't planning on starting production until mid-January. He got pissed at me because I actually was expecting my battery in a timely manner, not whenever they got around to building it. Meanwhile, my $300+ had been in their hands since late October. I cancelled again immediately after that conversation. So, I'm back to square one. Are their any good similar size/weight batteries in this price range that anyone has experience with?

Ha! I don't even have a hydraulic clutch in my car.

'97 Caterham LHD with a carb'd Zetec. Issue: Hot day, had to do an emissions test and car got even hotter with extended running without movement. Pulled out from the testing station (I failed in case anyone thinks there is some kind of miracle EPA compliant Weber fed Zetec trick), and pulling onto the road the steering got very heavy, particularly on center. It was like the tires dropped to 2-3 lbs. I thought maybe at first it was the ZZR's sticking to the hot pavement, but the stickiness wasn't consistent over the whole range of the rack, with the issue more on center. Don't know what it is like for Crossflow folks, but with my Zetec and header, the steering shaft passes right between the header tubes, with maybe a 1/2" clearance. It probably gets quite toasty, particularly on 90+ degree days like it was yesterday. The header tubes are wrapped, but that is high heat intensity right next to the shaft. So, I am wondering if something is maybe happening with the shaft itself, or if it is conducting heat down into the rack and causing issues there. Once the car cooled down it drove totally normal. Anyone else ever have this issue.

I went through a hellacious process trying to figure out why nearly exact symptoms were plaguing my Zetec powered Caterham. Even though almost nothing pointed to the fuel pump, that ended up being the problem. It operated fine at start-up and while driving for short periods, once it got warm it would begin to be intermittent and then simply stop. Let the car cool down for awhile and it ran fine. This went on for many (too many) months while trying just about everything else (plugs, leads, ignition module, ecu, crank position sensor, battery wiring etc, etc.). Finally, a mechanic hooked up a sensor to the fuel pump while on a test drive and found it started to fail while driving.

https://www.theguardian.com/business/live/2016/oct/04/pound-dollar-low-construction-imf-brexit-business-live Pound just hit a 31 year low vs the dollar.

Didn't want to thread-jack, but I sent you a PM about the clutch cable.

Its great that Bruce was able to make this happen and that LuckyDawg was cool with loaning it out. I do have to agree with MoPho though, that locating a customer car from Seattle for a piece in NorCal seems a little out of the way. Why not just borrow a car from Hillbank's inventory in Irvine? They show 13 in inventory on their site. Was Caterham USA unresponsive or did they rebuff the author's request?

Sweet. Perhaps I will take my dad down there this weekend. That S3 looks pretty nice.

Yes, it was forecast to be a 10% weight reduction in the chassis. As noted above, the chassis barely weighs 55kg now.

Greetings folks, I have a carb'd (Weber 45 DCOEs) Zetec in my Caterham. The last two summers I have been experiencing issues which I now think appear to be vapor lock. Car gets hot driving around town/in traffic, starts to run rough, then dies. Let it cool down (hood off is faster) and car restarts and runs fine. Bruce from Beachman and I have been through all of the electrical issues and replaced and or revised a number of components that could be impacted by heat. But, the more I read, the more I think it is actually a fueling issue and likely vapor lock. Question is this. Has anyone else with carb'd cars had issue with this? I have seen some info that the gas formulations the last few years, particularly on the West coast are contributing into making carb'd cars more prone to this. If you did experience this, how did you solve it? Seek out optimal gas formulations? Modify the fueling system (ie move the fuel pump) to help limit or alleviate the issue?

45 DCOEs for the Webers. Using the Raceline intake. Mine is a non-SVT Zetec, with as I said a great deal of the Raceline catalog attached. I didn't build it, and the guy I bought the car from didn't know much about the motor at all (he also bought it used). I haven't had the engine open to see if I have Raceline cams or pistons/connecting rods. It is a healthy motor, but I would say 175 hp at the crank would probably be accurate. About the alternator and idler I have no idea as I don't have a stock frame of reference to work from. As I said, I think I am the 3rd or 4th owner of my car.

I have most if not all of the Raceline goodies on my Zetec, including the kit you mention. I also have their oil pan, cylinder head, intake manifold (with Webers), pretty much everything they have listed on their site on the outside of the motor. Not sure if my car has any of the cams or internals as I bought it used from a guy who really didn't know any history on the car (he bought it used himself). Very nice stuff, with great build quality.

So, I am interested in what you guys find out here. I have had a similar issue with my Caterham that I don't believe is fully resolved. Gots warm, starts running poorly like it is missing, then basically won't run at all. Let it sit awhile and cool down and it will run fine again. The one thing we really didn't look at was fueling, probably mainly because of the heat related cause. My car is a carb'd Zetec with electronic ignition. We looked at grounding issues, spark etc but I still think there is something going on.

John is right. Unsprung weight is the mass of the vehicle not supported by the springs. The clamshells are sprung weight, the cycle fenders (unless somehow attached to the body and not the suspension) are unsprung weight.

Dear carbed Zetec owner. Do you have a bouncy tach? Mine is and we are trying to troubleshoot it. Any one with this issue and were you able to resolve it?

Would really depend on the set-up. However anecdotal recounts from my father who was very active in auto-x back in the 60's with everything from a Datsun 2000 to a Covair turbo powered SuperV said that a Meyers Manx with good tires and a strong engine was a very hot ticket in his region.

What ever made you believe that F1 would/could/should feature close racing? I have watched F1 since the late 70's and I very much struggling to recall any era in that time period that featured what most would consider 'close racing'. You should watch MotoGP. Marquez and Rossi traded positions several times in the last five laps on Sunday and were only .2 seconds apart at the finish.

My dad has every R&T dating back to the very early '60's. I can verify, but without even looking I can tell you that no stock 993 Turbo or even a 993 Turbo S is going to do 0-100-0 in 11.4 seconds. More like mid 13's to low 14's. A 993 TT would need about 650 hp to have a similar power to weight ratio as this car. And as other's have noted, EVO is a top notch British mag that is also pretty popular here. I am a subscriber via their iPad app and it is pretty awesome.

Because, that is the way you want to set these up if you want them to handle right. I discovered this myself after finally getting adjustable spring hats for my car. You want the front a-arms to be parallel to the ground, and then depending on who you ask, you want a 10-15% rake on the chassis (higher in the back to lower in the front). When Caterham's are set-up 'right' this is what they typically look like. Now, if you were building the car yourself, you could probably mount the rear wings a little lower to take some of the fender gap away, but then you also risk rubbing the tires when the springs are fully compressed.

Other than the compact size, I am not sure why everyone seems to be so impressed by this. You can get a 2.0 turbo four in a regular production Mercedes sedan (CLA 45 AMG) that makes 355 hp and 322 ft-lb at 2200 RPM. WRC cars are 1.6 liter turbo units which are restricted to 300 hp. They could probably easily be putting out 400 hp reliably without restrictors. I still prefer normally aspirated motors for Sevens, but turbocharged motors are getting really, really good. With direct injection and new turbo systems there is almost no lag.

Interesting selection. Not what I would have guessed that would sell best, at least initially, but perhaps they have done some actual market research. The roller only strategy makes sense to me. That is as long as they put them together well. If they want to portray a sense of heightened quality, taking control of the build process could go a long way here. Plus, like others have mentioned, how many folks actually have the time or resources to build the cars from the kit? I imagine they talked to Superformance a lot about this. Superformance seems to be roller only and they sell a lot of Cobra replica's. Back to the model lineup, I would have ditched the 160 and 360 and gone with a 3 model lineup of the 280/480/620 to keep things simple. Between the options available on the two 'lesser' models you have a lot of coverage here without having to make so many power options available. I am actually surprised so many of their models, particularly the 160, will be available. Save for the CSR, this is basically their full line-up.

So where am I to get parts moving forward? Caterham USA? Superformance? Dealer? All or none of the above?

Sorry for the delay. I actually totally forgot about this once I posted my initial response. I would probably like to see $800 for all five of the prisoner wheels and the four nearly new T1R Toyo's.