DB6

The Ra1 has been discontinued after 5 years production ( I have a set on my car), the replacement is the R888, any feedback on the new tire, it looks radically diff, but they claim better performance across the board.

Has any one changed just one or 2 fenders/wings on a Caterham 7 ( I have stock front clams and stock rears with the color (Post Office Red) in the gel coat and look pretty good, They are readily available, just wondererd about the accuracy of the color, mine have no fade at all, just some rear damage from someone backing in to a pole (not me), and it looks like some one sat on the front clam as there are cracks all around the 2 mountning brackets. By the way, I see some owners have switched from clams to cycles and just blanked off the old holes with stainless bolts and washers, any one on here done it? What are the pros and cons of clam versus cycle ? Is it true the clam shell was banned in Germany somew years ago? are the stories abouy wing lift and light steering true with the clams?I have yet to get over 8o mph in mine (kinda like being in a big clothes dryer on tumble dry). Cheers.

Chad ,(BANJO) can you show how these mount?and whats the pros and cons of convex v plain, do most ppl go plain on driver and convex for passenger side? By the way, I am asking about the side mount exteriors.

I did check all that but anyways thanks. My problem was a live wire ripped out by a drive shaft due to a silly installation. My car is 26 years old and in its life had many ppl work on it, some good, some bad, some things just human error.Nature of the beast.The reason for switching to electric V mech pumpwas just the whim of a prior owner.These cars, probably more than any other are well ..."Mr Potato Head " is very apt, but what , why and who did the work varies, the personal variations are what makes us all, and these cars differ, I just get pissed off at stupid . Regards David

I have a 1.7 supersprint by Racetune UK, it's a 1,7, with twin 40 DCOe's, puts out @ 160, just a street car. The Facet that is in now is the baby of the range, what gph and pressure / what specs would you recco, whats the best brand? do they all fail??damn.

Thanks Martin, thats what I hear, I think it's one of the best roads anywhere, you are right, Facets and nearly all elec pumps click and run all the time. Stop by next time you are passing thru., buy you a pint at the Goose Hollow at The Cove, , are you going to the meet in Canyonville meet, I have one other poss 2 sevens from OR going.

Hi Blami, Well from what I hear Facet along with other electric pumps ALWAYS run, they may be louder and faster on the initial prime but I really think you will find that they do not stop once pressure is reached. Once the car is running all I hear is that exhaust next to my ear,lol. And the car runs well, I think the adavnatge of the elec is that they prime once the key is turned, on my 1.7 Ford Cross flow with the Webers there are no chokes and if the car sat a while it took a lot of turning for the old mech pump to prime.

A previous owner installed a Facet "cube " type pump up under the rear boot tray near the fuel tank, with new filter on the pump and a then a pressure regulator just before the line runs into the 40 DCOE Webers. The pump is the correct output, pretty much the baby of their range. Anyway, the live wire was run from a new seperate conector one line to Ignition, power line thru firewall along tranny tunnel then used a 1/4 inch hole that was already there (on side of tranny tunnel near top just before it meets the rear back rest/firewall, he grommeted , taped, strapped, did a really nice looking job. Last Friday night running great from Seaside to Cannon Beach on the Coastal Highway (this is one of the most scenic drives anywhere, (you have to drive the Oregon Coast before you pop your clogs); when splutter , cough, splutter, DEAD,..rolled to side of road, flash lite showed blown fuse on the new fuel pump line,of course no fuses with me, but I did find a Bud can, beat it up with a brick and rolled a strip around the fuse, fired up, now at this point I should have headed home but feeling how clever I was at fixing the problem decide to push on into the nite, dumb idea. I splutterd to a stop 2 miles on, now pitch black, my bud can fuse holder has melted;but with my teeth and keys I strip the wires make contact but no clicking from the pump. Time to call a friend who is local and has one of the few trailer we can get this car one, (he races Miatas and has great ramps for low cars,BUT no bars on my cell phone, walk 3 miles, ( for me a Marathon) get cell, he comes right out, even tho he was getting ready to drive to the Utah Speed week on the Salt Flats, (you really do find out who your fiends are when you have a divorce or buy a 7),l( or in my case get divorced then buy a 7, which is still cheaper to maintain than my ex, does not call me an A-Hole and is prettier, I,m not bitter tho,lol,lol); anyway thanks to Dr Mark Stephanelli, (what's better than having a buddy who is a doctor and a Brit car fanatic with a 4 car garage and a lift and drops everything to come and pick you up at 9.30 pm on a Friday night.. The Diagnosis: the prior owner had left @ 15 inches of wire (don't ask me why) which got snagged on the Uni Joint where the prop shaft meets the dif and ripped the wire apart, the reason it worked for a while was as the prop shaft turned it allowed the wires to kiss now amd then, hence the few extra miles on the bud can fuse. When I asked hiw why he used that hole he said, "well because it was already there".!, nice guy tho, and God know s we all do dumb thing in or lives. By the way, are the Facet Fuel pumps always clicking, I believe they are but someone was saying they only click and pump till the pressure is built up, I think they click and pump all the time, right???

A previous owner installed a Facet "cube " type pump up under the rear boot tray near the fuel tank, with new filter on the pump and a then a pressure regulator just before the line runs into the 40 DCOE Webers. The pump is the correct output, pretty much the baby of their range. Anyway, the live wire was run from a new seperate conector one line to Ignition, power line thru firewall along tranny tunnel then used a 1/4 inch hole that was already there (on side of tranny tunnel near top just before it meets the rear back rest/firewall, he grommeted , taped, strapped, did a really nice looking job. Last Friday night running great from Seaside to Cannon Beach on the Coastal Highway (this is one of the most scenic drives anywhere, (you have to drive the Oregon Coast before you pop your clogs); when splutter , cough, splutter, DEAD,..rolled to side of road, flash lite showed blown fuse on the new fuel pump line,of course no fuses with me, but I did find a Bud can, beat it up with a brick and rolled a strip around the fuse, fired up, now at this point I should have headed home but feeling how clever I was at fixing the problem decide to push on into the nite, dumb idea. I splutterd to a stop 2 miles on, now pitch black, my bud can fuse holder has melted;but with my teeth and keys I strip the wires make contact but no clicking from the pump. Time to call a friend who is local and has one of the few trailer we can get this car one, (he races Miatas and has great ramps for low cars,BUT no bars on my cell phone, walk 3 miles, ( for me a Marathon) get cell, he comes right out, even tho he was getting ready to drive to the Utah Speed week on the Salt Flats, (you really do find out who your fiends are when you have a divorce or buy a 7),l( or in my case get divorced then buy a 7, which is still cheaper to maintain than my ex, does not call me an A-Hole and is prettier, I,m not bitter tho,lol,lol); anyway thanks to Dr Mark Stephanelli, (what's better than having a buddy who is a doctor and a Brit car fanatic with a 4 car garage and a lift nad drops everything to come and pick you up at 9.30 pm on a Friday night.. The Diagnosis: the prior owner had left @ 15 inches of wire (don't ask me why) which got snagged on the Uni Joint where the prop shaft meets the dif and ripped the wire apart, the reason it worked for a while was as the prop shaft turned it allowed the wires to kiss now amd then, hence the few extra miles on the bud can fuse. When I asked hiw why he used that hole he said, "well because it was already there".!, nice guy tho, and God know s we all do dumb thing in or lives. By the way, are the Fcet Fule pumps always clicking, I believe they are but someone was saying they only click and pump till the pressure is built up, I think they click and pump all the time, right???

Sal and all, Great feedback, thanks everyone. Who was the contact for the wheel,did you shop around? did they balance out well?I have enough lead on my orginal wheels to ballast a sail boat keel,and to be honest I just do not like the look of them it was a common problem with this wheel.. I have a set of Toyo Proxes RA1 185/60/13 (just 500 miles on em, so these are going on the new wheels), many are saying to the sixJ width for the new wheel, (my stock wheel is 13 by 6J from the factory( what do you think? If the 185,s would fit the 7 inch wide new wheel I could wear them out then next time go to your size. Bt the way did you stick with the regular finish over the optional polished? Regards David PS, Any one concerned or notice speedo error when switching tyre / wheel combos? Again, just a street car only, with a RacelineUK 1.7 with 160 hp.

19 PSI is the word I have gotten from several sources, you are bang on Al .Cheers

I have located some push in aluminum wheel caps for the 13 inch "Jupiter " wheels( that were popular with Catreham in the 80,via a Birkin dealer. The wheel center hole diameter is 2 and 3/8 inch, I have bought some old generic aluminum caps that should fit ( the originals seem to be un-obtainable) and am looking for some emblems to stick in the middle of the caps to finish them off. There are quite a few on ebay UK (resin with 3M sticky tape on the back in all colours), BUT I need 1 1/2 min to 1 and 5/8 inch max, set of 4.Any ideas?Pref would be the original green and yellow Chapman Lotus logo as that is what is in the nose and steering wheel. Or if any one know of any caps that would slide into a 2 and 3/8 hole let me know, the originals were slid in from the rear and held in place b the wheel and the cap's lip as it was seated, the ones I have are push in, or should I say hammer the crap out of with grease and a block of wood,lol. Thanks a lot. David

Gert, where did you get the Mc Carr stuff? Did you do anything in the footwell or the engine bay? Thanks

Hres a comp on Ebay...Item number: 260274846772 from what I see the market is all over the place, ebayUK shows the cars going cheap,(even allowing for the exchange rate),all said and done I guess to many ppl, as much as they love the car, the toys have to sell first when in need of money.

Any good stuff you guys like and where its best to put, I have toasted feet. I used a product years ago on an old Vette, really nothing more that 2 layers of aluminum foil with ceramic dust sandwiched in the middle and sticky peel off off on one side (I think I got it from Summit) , this was for interior use, due to footwell limits any one try stuff out of the footwell? i.e engine bay. Does Jet Hot or other Ceramic coatings pull down the footwell temp to notice? Thanks

Any good stuff you guys like and where its best to put, I have toasted feet. I used a product years ago on an old Vette, really nothing more that 2 layers of aluminum foil with ceramic dust sandwiched in the middle and sticky peel off off on one side (I think I got it from Summit) , this was for interior use, due to footwell limits any one try stuff out of the footwell? i.e engine bay. Does Jet Hot or other Ceramic coatings pull down the footwell temp to notice? Thanks

Thanks

I just bought a pair of ("Waffle Zoom Racers",honest that's what they are called,lol),track shoes really> for $10.00 at the local Nike outlet, I asked for the narrowest shoe they had, that was it, BUT the downside is they are the ugliest shoes I ever put my feet in, 4 shades of camo black and grey????. Anyone know of a reasonable priced shoe that will give you good pedal width clearance without going to a full blown race shoe>i.e, a shoe that you can drive and wear for normal use. \Cheers DB

any contacts, I am in OR.

Great trip, these do tend to atract the boys in blue tho, even when u r being a good boy.

Then a person could not only swap info and tips for local shops / meets.. etc, but also maybe arrange meets in that area. As of now I see the member list which lists memebers by name but not area,it could be optional but I think would be handy as we cover such a vast area.

I am In Seaside , I was thinking of taking the coastal highway, best scenery in the world but alot of RV,s, so I am open to dif routes>

Hi, Anyone going there, I see it's up in the hundreds for full regisration, any one know if it's possible to just attend for a day to chat and watch other than the whole deal and participation? I would be willing to drive down for the day, possibly with 2 other 7,s in the area ,but don't see us doing the whole weekend soup to nuts deal?? Cheers DB http://www.gglotus.org/2008wclm/index.htm

Thankyou all for the input; the dyno on this car was 157 hp. So the general feeling is stick with 6 by 13 wheel size, and that Toyo RA 1 in 185/60/113 is fine for street use, what kind of mileage should I expect with regard to wear and how are they in the wet? Would a time delay work for the turn signal? I am going to buy a few cheap mirrors and fool around with brackets to see what I can come up with.Once you get over 40 your neck stops spinning like an owl so anything has to be better than what I have now, which is nothing,some of those motor bike mirrors look nice tho and the prices are low. Thanks again. DB

Hi Pirate, Thanks for the info, thats one funky looking mirror,(" torpedoes away Herr Kapitan" do you have pics you could post or send from the from the front and the rear of it on your car, cheers, David