rzempel

Not just small parts. I've got a 300 gallon tank I can (and have done) some really large pieces.

That's the spirit. Keep track of which spacer was on each side...I didn't (they both popped out and rolled away) and ended up pulling the Quaife again when I put the spacers in the wrong sides. Not a big deal, but annoying.

I dunno. Once done, it isn't nearly so intimidating.

I'm on the wrong coast to help, but in my experience the Quaife was a direct replacement--no shimming required. I've heard this from others, as well.

Needs our support to happen: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/87703

FWIW, I've seen an early Birkin ("88-ish IIRC) here is SoCal (don't know where it is now) that was equipped with Miata engine and transmission.

Unfortunately it did stop coming. The last kit sold in November.

I'm pretty sure it's "mid engined" because the engine is behind the front wheels (and ahead of the rears). It's a bit of a stretch, but I've seen the terminology used elsewhere.

Looks like a standard set of gears; so, no limited slip. If LSD is important to you, give Dick Brink a call. When I was looking for a LS diff, he had a couple of options.

Looks like the standard South African market Toyota HiLux van. Not likely to be limited slip, unless the guts have been changed to aftermarket--you'd have to look inside to determine that. Normal 80W90 diff oil IIRC. Randall

The '99-01 engines are fragile beasts--not junk by any stretch. Just know that you may end up paying more for engine repairs than you pay for the whole car. IMHO, they didn't get the engine "right" until 2008 (IRRC), when they deleted the troublesome countershaft entirely. I had a Cayman (arguably better than the 911 because the engine is in the right place), but ultimately sold it because I couldn't stand how heavy and sluggish it felt compared to my Birkin. If you don't own a Porsche and Se7en at the same time, this might not be an issue. Have fun agonizing over the decision. :-)

Good road ruined by a stupidly low posted speed. Drove it yesterday in my pos rental. It was pleasant, but I concur with Gert that California has better, lesser known, roads. I'd do it again, though.

On Wednesday I'm headed to that area for a week, so I'll be interested to read how the rental car works on the Tail. I don't know what car I'll be getting, but I'm pretty certain it won't be as much fun as a Se7en.

I don't know about the Titan, but when Installed my Quaife unit, I found that it was a straight bolt in (and so were all the others I've heard about). No spacer changes necessary. I would suspect the same should be true with the Titan, unless for some reason they don't have similar quality control. Randall

I don't have a photo, though if you like, I can post one later. It's the same as 11budlight's.

I recently upgraded to a Raceline sump on my Birkin. I also installed a Birkin sump guard sourced from Texas Motor Works. I haven't "tested" it, but it looks as though it ought to do the job. Randall

SocalS1, You might want to join the California Caterham Club forum, too. Despite its name, it's multi marque, and local group drives are more likely to be arranged over there. http://californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/ Randall

Welcome the the crazy house. Looking forward to meeting you and seeing the car. Randall

Have you called Dick Brink at Texas Motorworks? He's the Birkin importer in Arlington, TX. He probably has a Birkin or two for sale. (817) 461-7431 Randall

Give us a shout when you're here. March is far enough out that I will forget to call. :-) Randall

Put me on the list. I'm pretty sure I'll have my car sorted, and calendar clear, by then. Looks like a fantastic drive. Randall

Hi Vinnie, The Zetec uses a crank position sensor mounted on the exhaust side of the block. There are two incompatible fitments--one for an automatic gearbox, and one for the manual gearbox. It's been awhile, but setting my Emerald and crank sensor was so easy I don't specifically remember it. I think it was as easy as running the sensor wire to the right pins on the Emerald (30 and 31). I don't think it was even necessary to enable or define that input in the software.

I'm pretty sure CHP verification can be done before DMV issues a SPCNS number. BAR afterwards only, though. Here's the DMV page about SPCNS: http://dmv.ca.gov/vr/spcnsreg.htm And, FWIW, the state code section about the BAR inspection is in the Health and Safety code, section 44017.4. http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/cgi-bin/displaycode?section=hsc&group=44001-45000&file=44010-4402 The Vehicle Code says this about previously registered cars: 4304. Upon application for registration of a vehicle previously registered outside this State, the department shall grant full faith and credit to the currently valid certificate of title describing the vehicle, the ownership thereof, and any liens thereon, issued by the state in which the vehicle was last registered, except that the laws of the state shall provide for the notation upon the certificate of title of any and all liens and encumbrances other than those dependent upon possession. 4305. In the absence of knowledge by the department that any certificate of title issued by another state is forged, fraudulent, or void, the acceptance thereof by the department shall be a sufficient determination of the genuineness and regularity of the certificate and of the truth of the recitals therein, and no liability shall be incurred by any officer or employee of the department by reason of so accepting a certificate of title.

FWIW, the CHP haven't any jurisdiction in registering a car. Only the DMV do. The DMV is required to accept prior out of state registration at face value--they call it reciprocity. Once they issue a registration, though, they can determine it is fraudulent and steal your car. I recommend the SB100 route, even if the DMV offer the '62 Lotus registration. (except, technically, it isn't SB100; it's a different section of law that I can't remember. SB100 is for a car that you built, not somebody in another state.)

From what I can see in the photo, there was no weld penetration on the plate side of the weld bead. Poor initial weld, but easy fix for a good welder.