Fimi 7

New listed MK Indy in the US for sale - Almost a money no object build.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/153550539088

Just posted this for sale on eBay. Not sure if anyone is interested. It's really a top notch setup, only selling it because I need the money. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151494605292&alt=web

http://store.schnitzracing.com/exoticycle-oil-filter-relocator-suzuki-gsx1300r-hayabusa-99-14-gsxr1000-01-14-gsxr750-00-14-gsxr600-00-14/

Went to BJ's today and noticed they had covered areas for their carts, thought of this post....

To be honest, I would not worry about it too much. You get very used to them quickly and sometimes learn to like the sound. Makes the car feel more raw.

Just as an FYI - The UK Ford Sierra and Merkur Differential have small differences. I think the splines are different or the push in distance differs. The casing is about the same for the 7.5, if you have the 7" Sierra, double check. I used the Sierra 7" with Miata Hubs. I had custom shafts made by the Drive Shaft Shop. Its perfect.

Nice log. Need to ask a favor. Can you post a few photos of the westfield Miata front wheel wings. I made my own and have had issues with them coming lose. What I am trying to understand is how they built the brackets to bolt to the hub and hold on the wings Anyone else has photos please share

Let me guess. http://kemptechnologies.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Dr.-Evil-One-Million-Dollars.png

I learnt this lesson several years ago in a GT3 race toyota, gear down when ready to accelerate out of the corner, not when going into, it looks and sounds pretty on a race car, but the timing of gearing down is tricky. With that said, my suggestion would be to just buy a complete fresh motor. Strip off the good stuff from the blown motor and go again. Dump things like the oil cooler and lines, you will never get the metal parts out of it. I am running the hayabusa and based on what I have read, going with Carillos is not a bad thing, but the gain in reliability is marginal. What most have found is the supercharger/turbo kits are the best bang for the buck with as minimal changes as possible to the engine. If you are going to build a big power motor, give up on reliability. If you want reliability, either keep it stock and drive restrained, beef up the motor for reliability and not performance or move to a car motor.

The dash looks familiar. Is that Hanks old car?

Pay close attention to the oil and clutch systems. There is a main shaft in the gear box that might also be a good thing to change. Most of the sevens running bec are under 1100, a couple 100 more pounds could really wear on it.

Actually the GSXR 1000 and the Hayabusa share almost the exact same parts, its just a bigger bore. Meaning either will work. I am at present running a Hayabusa, ended up choosing that over the 1000 for the minor jump in torque. Alot of the guys in the UK run the 1000 to meet a regulatory racing requirement, where they are competing with other sevens running the R1 or Honda CBR 9XX engines. It works.

Just in case anyone ever needs to know. its 22mm X 1.5. Hand to re-tap my block this week and finally got the right one after buying a few different sizes. Note this is for a K8. After talking to a few Hayabusa guys I found out that the older models are smaller. Do not know that size but I know its smaller. Got the wrong plug first and it did not fit.

I bought the same package from http://www.diyautotune.com/ directly. Great package. Would strongly suggest spending the extra money and buying their crimp tool too. After killing a few of the ends I ordered mine and have not had a problem since. The kit also does not come with anything under 18 gauge, so if you plan in doing any really thin wiring like for the dash you will need to buy the 22 gauge separately. Worth every dime. Makes wiring much easier and simpler. I have been using a silver marker so every one of my connectors has a number which is documented.

Posted on Ebay if anyone is interested

It would have to be a faulty switch, since most of them you have to reset to get it going again. How is it mounted, do you lose all power? If the switch flips and is wired correctly should just kill all power.

I have a set of UK Ford Sierra uprights. Both Front and rear. Included are the rear brackets that can be used to connect to a 7 chassis, the mushrooms for the top of the front uprights and the upper Ball joints, which are new (I am missing one of the Jam nuts, if I find it before shipping I will included it). Here is how it looks when you install it on the rear The selling price is 250 for the full set, from what I can tell it will be about 65 bucks max to ship to California from Charlotte, so it should be less than that anywhere else. Keep in mind it weighs about 60 lbs if you are going to provide your own shipping method.. I can take Paypal. if serious, send me a message.

Hey, you still have to drive happy to the track

Busa - has a ton of aftermarket parts... You can get almost anything you can think of for the engine and trans.

Well I have to take back whats I said a few days ago . MK released my kit to the shippers on Friday. So the kit is on the way. I only pray it has all the right parts in the correct configuration to fit. Not expected to get here till mid June, so I will update you when I get it. I think all my fingers are now crossed

I reached out to them a few months ago and had a few emails go back and forth. Eventually decided to work directly with the manufacturer in the UK. They were very willing to help, but I think only one person really knows anything. Try - paul@smartsportscars.com

Well for one thing, the big benefit of putting in a Hayabusa is the compact low weight full package, trans and all included. To then add a 60 to 80lbs transmission just kills the entire BEC idea.

Thats a wife for you. Hit you when you are down . But as normal - they are right ...

I can vouch for the cost. The big difference is the Miata diff will not work for the BEC, wrong ratio. So you have to use something different. My kit is coming with the Miata hubs and a Sierra drive train. Which basically means I have to get custom half shafts made. Estimated around 500 to 700 bucks, if you get really good ones. Might be able to get it cheaper. I went this route to give myself the easy option to move to a Miata engine in the future (after I blow the Hayabusa of course )

To answer your questions - Cost -After ordering my kit I spoke to one of the guys at flying Miata and he said even though on their website the quote a cost, they can in alot of cases customize a kit to bring down the cost. Therefore if you order a Westfield you will pay more, but if you order a Westfield and customize the order by reducing the parts coming from them, it might work out. The guy was trying to tell me he could have made a deal for me. Can't hurt to ask, right. Careful, the 20K is very easy to rack up. My starting budget was 14, I have not got my kit yet. And based on the parts I have bought so far I am sure I will blow past 20K. I try to follow the rule, if you are going to buy something reach for the best you can afford (within reason), otherwise you will eventually have to replace it. The major parts like engine, basic kit, wheels, etc costs are known amount. Its when you start to add up the little things. Like brakes, wiring, Electronics, rivets (seriously, if you go wild you can burn 200 bucks on rivets alone). It all ads up.