Mike Rohaley

Thanks! I will be doing just that.

Hello everyone, Is there a source for replacement Avon ZZS tires here in the Eastern US (195/50R15)? I have tried both Sasco Sport and Frisby Motorsports (two US Avon distributors) with no luck. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike

It struck me just now that ten years ago today we were at The Tail of The Dragon for the 07-07-07 event to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Seven. I just had to check in and see if there was any hub-bub about this or any future event. We really enjoyed the experience and wondered back then if we would be around for a 60th. Al and Mazda (among others) did a great job with it all and it would be great to do something like that again one of these years. We are still thrashing our little car accordingly after 15 years of ownership and enjoy it as much as that first year behind the wheel (I still have yet to find a better replacement other than another 7). For those that were there ten years ago; post some photos, maybe we can get the fires burning for another epic drive for 65.

If the head has been decked it is possible for the locating dowels to be bottoming out and keeping the head from fully sealing. Just a thought, it's often a simple oversight.

These parts are sold.

Richard, I have one boxed up since I switched to a different intake system with the idea that I could return it to stock form should I seek originality at some point. If Caterham USA doesn't have one and you will be otherwise out of commision I would be willing to part with it. I would prefer to keep it if another source is out there for you but if not, you can contact me at: mrohaley @ oh.rr.com (ignore the spaces). -Mike It is off a 2001 Zetec VCT Caterham.

Tom, I know that name. I assure you I wasn't avoiding, I will need to look in my junk mail file and see if your correspondence is there. I have our old thread saved and will send you a message momentarily.

We will be there screen-free rain or shine. Besides, a little water never killed anyone.......well, maybe a few people. Those weather guessers at the local stations have messed up enough of my weekends with incorrect forecasts so I am forecasting (using my trusty chicken bones in a garbage can lid voodoo method) 72 degrees and sunny. They should really have scorecards for meteorologists, something like a batting average (or at the very least comment when they swing-and-a-miss the previous day). "Sorry about yesterday guys. I know I said thunderstorms which likely made you cancel your plans.........so............yeah, I really F'ed that one up".

The chain lube was for the purpose of keeping the old rivet remnants captive so they would not rattle. For keeping corrosion at bay in the space frame I would suggest ACF-50 which is available from companies like Aircraft Spruce.

If the rivnuts are attached to your existing floorpan they will foul your seat bases, not the seat track. Since the seat bases slide directly on the floorpan the rivnuts will cause problems when you try to slide the seats back (that is why either rivets or screws should be installed from above).

Alaskossie: You mentioned in your above post about making your own sump guard out of aluminum. To save you some grief: My original guard was made from aluminum but proved to be too flexible and deformed more than I liked with repeated jack lifts. The material thickness required to properly make it out of aluminum negated the weight savings over steel (with my design at least). If you decide to make yours from aluminum, I wouldn't recommend any less than 1/8" thickness.

Did you remove the upper cover at all? There is a keyway built into it that will keep the shifter from moving properly without it.

One tip to include. When you drill out the remains of the old rivets, spray some motorcycle chain lube into the holes. The lube is viscous when sprayed but tacks up as it drys and will keep the remains from rattling around in the tube for eternity (not to mention it provides a bit of rust protection).

I had the same problem in the same place on my car which was discovered this past winter. Mine were only 4 rivets and the gap (unloaded) was only about 1/32". It developed within this last driving season since the car is given the once-over every winter. One thing for you to be aware of; Caterhams use monel rivets which can easily be ordered from Caterham USA. Monel rivets are a special nickel/copper alloy which is designed for use in high corrosion enviroments (such as marine) and have a very high sheer strength. Do not just run out to the hardware store and pick basic aluminum rivets or you will be replacing them relatively soon.

Sure, I can install rivnuts into that part. The screw heads (if put in from above) will not foul the seat bases markedly. FYI: There will be about a .040" gap between the plate and the floorpans due to the rivnut base verus .000" if standard rivets are used.

MichaelD: Here are a couple photos of the bellypan from my car. It has about 5 years and 35,000 miles of real world testing under its belt with no issues (metal fatigue or noise). Obviously this one is well worn and showing debris peppering but new ones will be pristine. If anyone is interested they are available for $275 (excluding shipping). The kit includes all mounting tabs (with aluminum rivnuts fitted) and stainless hardware, also 20-1/8" aluminum rivets. They are designed for non-SV cars with DeDion rear ends. Oh yeah, the A-frame is just there for the sake of showing how it attaches. It is not part of the kit (I knew someone would call me out on that if I didn't state it first).

I put this Fidanza flywheel on my car about 4 or 5 years ago. While I had no manufacturing quality issues (I thought it was made very well, contemplated putting it on the mantle) I did have to get a starter from a 1997 Ford Escort because of the ring gear location. Once switched over to the proper starter, all has been perfect.

Take some pics of what you have and let the suggestions roll on in. I say fair them into the cycle fenders so they peek around the corners!

I was just about to add knock-offs too! If I did that one of us might accidentally jump into the wrong car on the next drive. Hmmmm......yellow piping? I think I like the sound of it.

No, but I bet they are colder than any leather seat on a Cleveland winter morning and will brand you on a hot summer day. The price we pay for style I suppose.......

That seat can be found at http://www.vintage31.com. I don't have the tooling to tightly edge-roll 12ga. so either annealing and hammer forming or welding round stock to the edges will be needed. I have a couple pieces that may make a nice foundation, I will bring them Sunday.

Is this what you are thinking of building? Sure, send me some info on what you are looking for. We should be able to accomodate nicely.

FYI: Grab the April 2010 issue, there is a great 4 page article on our little corner of the automotive world (one is also the cover car!).

This photo is of the Caterham CSR chassis but the center tunnel is of the same design as the standard chassis. Triangulation is the important difference from a couple simple loops.

Per my reference books, in 1985 Caterham made extensive modifications with braced longitudinal tubes to the transmission tunnel to increase torsional stiffness. It is a bit more complex than two hoops but essentially serves the same purpose should the drivshaft go flying.