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1turbofocus

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Everything posted by 1turbofocus

  1. I have been working with the Zetec engine for a long time , In WOT I wouldn't set the A/F above 12.9 you will se little to no HP / TQ loss but hugh safety Tom
  2. There are manifolds out there for ITB that can be ported large on the runners , dont worry about matching them to the massive head as the heads runner are to big and more for looks then actually making good power , way over priced and over rated , the Ford Racing head was much smaller opening / runners and made the same and sometimes better power Its ok to go small intake to large head , what you dont want to do is large intake to a small head this would create swirl , go with what you can find , open them the best you can and go for it http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-ZETEC-WEBER-DCOE-45-JENVEY-THROTTLE-BODIES-SHORT-INLET-MAN-/260894070325?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cbe7f9635#ht_828wt_779 They offer a 40mm and a 45mm Tom
  3. My opinion is you wont see 1-3HP and thats pushing it , you didnt say what compression or if you have ITB but I am guessing your about 11.5 + and ITB To get a better idea of what you have on the dyno where is your peak HP and peak TQ Tom
  4. From everything I have tested larger valves just are not worth the cost vs the gains you get to the wheels HP and TQ Tom
  5. Yes that sounds about right , that will get you close so you dont have to spend as much time on the dyno , I would also do your 3rd gear WOT 2000 to 4000 runs before for the air fuel , this also will cut down on your dyno time , shoot for a WOT air fuel of about 12.8 Tom
  6. The best head out there by far is the Ford Racing head if you can find one , there is a few others with big claims but there not better then the Ford Racing head and bigger valves dont help so dont spend a lot to have them I would surface what ever head you get about .025 to .030 , stage 3 Comp cams , no there not to big for what your doing for your weight of car , valve clearances will be on your cam card and no 2 cars will have the same clearances Stock Ford HG is the best I have found , reuse your exh gasket and fel-pro gaskets for the rest By the time you idle it to get it running good and get to a dyno to adjust the cam gears to adjust the cams , best way to get the cam gears close is all plugs out and do a compression test , then adjust one gear 1 direction and see if the compression goes up or down , if compression goes up then go more with the cam gear adjustment till compreeion stops going up them back one , if it goes down then go the other direction do this with both gears , you want the most compression you can get , this isnt perfect but very close to get you to a dyno for final adjustment which will change You need to have your tune very very close before going to the dyno for cam adjustment Please let me know if I can help Tom
  7. Its rare but the C-F-M gears has failed and will fail at high RPM , I think the last one I seen brake he was trying to do 8200 Its RPM that brakes them Tom
  8. The oil pump failures on the Zetec engine is not chatter , If Jon has only had one failure out of 150 then most likely there not running past 7200 and not running there engines very hard like most Caterham guys I know and do buisness with , I have built over 500 of these engines now and seen over a dozen oil pump failures , the engine I build get brutalized and the guys that try to go past 7500 pay the price a lot of the time , you cannot shut down an engine turning 7500+ under load fast enough to keep it from damaging the bearings , even if you had a idiot light that comes on below 30psi which most dont have your not looking at the oil psi gauge turning 7500+ and running hard C-F-M makes a billet oil pump gear that seels to be ok to about 7500 , I know of 2 of these that have broke on 400+ HP turbo cars trying to do 7800+ Making HP with the Zetec and Duratec is what I do , I am not "Some guys sitting in their basements in their underwear in the middle of winter at their computer keyboard with nothing better to do than start a mess or rumors with little or no basis " I do it from my Den and year round not just winter LOL Seriously tho , I wouldnt go past about 7200 , most engine wont make power past 6800 anyway Tom
  9. Have you installed a temp fuel psi gauge to see whats happening to confirm it is a fuel psi problem It sounds like it is to me but I like to know 100% before I go throwing parts at it Tom
  10. Boy a lot of Tom`s in here LOL The Duratec and Zetec have very good crank case vent catch cans that bolt to the sides of the block and allow the oil to drain back into the engine before being blown out to a catch can or ground I think ALL the Zetec / Duratecs should be cutting the bottoms out of the PCV and removing the spring and plunger , connecting a hose and running the hoses up hill from the PCV location to catch cans or ground depending on if a track car or tree hugger , the valve cover vent also should not be run to anything but the ground or catch can and should be done with a hose no smaller ID then the ID of the hole in the valve cover , This helps the engine breath much better and isnt sending all that hot oily air back through the engine Tom
  11. I wouldnt do dry sump unless this is a seroius track car , what do you do with this car most , street or track If track there is a nice internal dry sump set up that cuts down on having to have brackets , belts , etc Dry Sump Kits http://www.raceline.co.uk/uploads/product_images/webdurdrysump12.jpg Tom
  12. When you say stock oil pan your saying a Focus oil pan or an oil pan berkin uses , there are some good wet sump oil pans out there you may want to look at , this is the Raceline Duratec Wet Sump Kit 2.3L I would want to know 100% what the failure was caused by before installing a new engine Tom
  13. Im guessing this is your duratec ? what oil pan do you run , what type of oiling system Tom
  14. Have you ever looked at http://www.atlinc.com/racing.html they have some great sump systems and fuel cells Tom
  15. You should base picking your tuner on his ability to tune not how well he puts up with BS I have no problem answering skeptics , most just dont like the that I dont beat around the bush doing it I have found after many years of doing that , That it still gets me no where and I have to type two times as much to say the same thing , Its people that tell me I am doing things wrong with software that they obviously never used that bothers me Thats also why I stated that if you look on http://www.focusfanatics.com they you can see I am a well respected member in the Zetec / SVT / Duratec tuning and building community BUT point taken Tom
  16. Thats fine and understandable , If you have a question just ask , If I can answer it I will be glad to , the only stupid questions are the ones you dont know the answer to and dont ask Tom
  17. I am not sure what your problem is or why you feel the need to act this way I have been building Engines as a buisness for 32 years , I know what works and what doesnt and yes he can run mid 10`s to lower 11 compression with his stock cams and be fine and it will perform well and be safe You speek "in math" I speek in the real world it works and people are doing it and have done it , maybe in your mind it doesnt and thats fine but dont limit this guy to things that you say dont work but others are doing , sure his engine would run better with a set of cams , header , even Adj cam gears to fine tune them I have no idea why your banging you head doing the calculations for the Motec and Electromotive as there easy to use and do the calculations , crap there is hardly anything there to change these use the bare basics to get by and nothing more , can do a tune from cold and start the car in about 30 min , try tuning with a real ECU doing it the way tuning should be done like with the stock ECU LOL you dont have a clue what I am doing , auto configuration ? what are you talking about , Just to change Inj sizes I have to change the High slope , low slope, brakepoint , Fuel Inj Min Pulse Width , Inj Psi Drop , Inj Comp Batt Offset and about a dozen other things , what "auto configuration " LOL My guess is you have never tuned a real ECU or used any of this software but you want to belittle me for doing so , Please before doing that talk to some of my Customers and see how there cars make 150 to 500HP and there cars run like stock or better Is everyone on this Forum like this ? If you dont understand something ask I , If you seem something I am doing is wrong I have no issues saying why I do something , But you dont have to come across like an AZZ , Or do you ? Tom
  18. Algorithm : step-by-step procedure for calculations , Wouldnt this mean filling in the balnks as well LOL ? Tom
  19. This isnt my first rodeo with tuning , its far more then filling in the blanks in the software , I tune and I tune in the same way Ford tunes these cars and with basicly the same software You can get away with far more then 9.7 on 93 , you may want to look at some of the new car engines out with compression over 10-1 for 87 fuel , the SVT Focus 2.0 (basicaly a Zetec) was 10.2 and used 91 fuel The Duratec has a more efficient combustion chamber so you can do more compression and not have to run a lot of timing , there are guys in the Focus world running Duratecs for years now with over 10.5 and some over 11 with my tuning and no issues Please before you go bad mouthing me or the software out todat take a look around at what others and my self have been doing for years and its working and the engines are safe I did pay attention to what he was asking and answered it , I am sorry you didnt like the answer but it doesnt change the fact that my answer is correct Tom
  20. Not at all , this is nothing new I have been tuning Fords sense 84 with the SVO Mustang and using Autologic which by todays standards was archaic but worked If you go to larger Inj you just put in the High / Low slopes of the new Inf size then use the Mass Air Transfer Functions to control your fueling , same thing with the Mass Air if you go to a larger size either change the Injector sizes in the software or put in the new maf transfer voltage table for the larger MAF This isnt adapting this is writing right to the ECU either through a chip (models up to 96) or through the OBDII from 96 to 2012 Alomst everyone uses MAF now days , I like it much better all of the Turbo Zetec and Duratecs I build I use 60lb Injectors , 3 inch MAF and do the set up blowthrough meaning the MAF is between the intercooler and TB vs suckthrough where the MAF is before the turbo between the filter and turbo , blowthrough is a little harder to tune but much better over all driveability I have 100% controle over every table , scalar , function that the stock ECU uses and can safely change them to make 723HP at the wheels with my Zetec in my 2000 Ford Focus where the Ford engineers that drove it stated it drove around town as good as if not better then stock with 96lb Injectors and a 3 inch blow through MAF and ran a 10.95 @ 137 MPH on DOT tires and A/C working It isnt automatic or self tuning and I turn the adaptive off , the stock ECU is very powerfull an this software has been out for some time now and in my opinion if people are not going to ITB they should be using the stock ECU I have SCCA winning Caterhams running stock ECU and my tuning where I tune there cars in Houston and I am in NC and tune them remotely with out going there , just updated a tune on one Saturday this last weekend If you want to take a look go to http://www.sctflash.com thats the software I use or http://www.diablosport.com also use thers and they have some of the best datalogging software built into the flashers as well as the ability to scan and clear CEL = Check Enging Light and give you the codes that are bad Tom
  21. Stock Inj no , I would hope that anyone wanting to go to a higher compression would also be looking at Header Injectors 42lb Intake system with bigger MAF Cams Or just higher compression would be a little over kill with out the other parts , My opinion its a good combination of things that make a good performing engine , sais he has the Cosi intake manifold and Exh already so he has a good start I ran 96lb Inj in My Focus with the stock ECU , idled and ran like stock as for driveability Tom
  22. I can do all your tuning needs and have tuned hundreds of Duratec Engines , about 11.6 would be your max on the Duratec engine , The stock ECU will be more then enough to handle your tuning needs Your best Forum to help you would be http://www.focusfanatics.com I am 1turbofocus there and you will see I am a well respected builder and tuner there Tom
  23. When you reinstall the psi plate do the bolts finger tight enough to hold the disc but not so tight yu cannot move it , with a flash light you can look in the hold where the input shaft goes , center it by eye and you should be fine , need to get it pritty close but doesnt have to be perfect A lot of times you can buy the pilot tools local there cheap Tom
  24. Yep thats a Focus block , some one must of used a ZX2/Contour head on it at some point , I have also seen a few Focus blocks in ZX2 that they say they were the stock engine that came in the car , the ZX2/ZX3 later years are the same block so could be Tom
  25. Whats your casting # , Most all Focus Parts start with a casting of "YS" Tom
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