1turbofocus

Do you have anything hooked to that runner from the Valve cover or PCV ? Your going back with a 2.5 right ? lol Tom

I would go with the return fuel system , much easier to use , any pump that flows 250-300 lph will work under 300whp , use a regulator to set your PSI and your on your way Tom

You are correct but I wouldnt say a boat anchor , I can easilly make over 350whp with them and have taken them over 500whp , the 2.5 is the better choice that came in the ranger also a Lima SOHC Engine, more TQ for sure if you have to stay with the Lima SOHC Engine Did you check with Esslinger on the header ? Tom

At first ( year 2000 ) we has issues with head gaskets on the Zetec , one thing we found was the need to TQ then 6-8 times , you can TQ then 1-2 times and nothing moves on the 2nd TQ but the 3-4 TQ we get 1-4 +/- that move and we have found this to be true more then you think That and went to using the Ford Zetec head gasket and we have made as much as 723 whp with a Zetec and no blown HG sense we found those 2 things Tin

I run Mobile 20-50 full synthetic in all my Customers engines and on mine , I feel they will be run hard and I prefer the added protection over the very very minimal loss to pump it , In colder weather I tell them to drop to mobile 15-40 full synthetic Tom

Hard to tell on the A/F , what is the WOT air fuel , what is the steady throttle A/F at different RPM ? Fuel psi at 50 psi ? Thats kinda high if it is , 38-42 psi is Avg normal AF for that Tom

I dont think he ment anything was wrong with the way it was done working wise , he just felt for 125.00 an Hr a higher class of wiring should of been done , when you ask for advice/opinions sometimes you hear what you dont want to hear To install a KS now would be a nightmare and that cost should be on him , he should of known on this engine it needs to be there , he should of known about the RPM and the oil pump gears and at least installed the billet oil pump gears , in the areas that cover you the most he seems to of not addressed Are you running the stock Zetec balancer ? Tom

I didnt ask if he had the stock balancer or not , I would hope so , Yes Boundary has the billet pumps and they do look good , I dont know about there gears but the previous ones from quicksilver would still break in the 7800-8000 range so you only got a couple hundred RPM more from them Tom

You want between 38-42psi of fuel psi under all conditions Tom

Not trying to bum you out just worked on the Zetec a lot and you have been given some bad information and trying to make sure your bases are covered and you dont hurt your new engine Tom

Saying its running 100 , 105 ,110 is not a good reason to say you dont need a knock sensor , no one has worked in and Tuned this engine more then I have and I am telling you you need a knock sensor Unless your running a dry sump which you might be I wouldnt go higher then 7400 on the Zetec oil pump gears are well known to break , I would of installed the billet Zetec oil pump gears , were they installed in yours ? DHU Dyno ?

So the engine was 4500.00 ? Why did you go to the MS ? What were you running before ? Did you get the Knock Sensor Option ? If your going to do a compression that requires 100 octane why not go for 11.7 to 12.2 and make more HP and TQ ? Tom

Whats your compression ? What Cams ? This in ITB Correct ? 15,000.00 was for the rebuild of the Engine only ? Tom

5.28 is a given , I would round to 5.5 quarts , 2 quarts in the accusump is a given = 7.5 quarts now you need to fill the cooler lines and cooler to see what it holds and add that to the 7.5 and you should be spot on None of my Zetec guys run the accusump or oil coolers just more things to have issues with and today's oils can easily take 500 deg so ??? Tom

No way to answer this , depends on to many things , I would use the front o2 hole and see what it reads vs behind the CAT " typically fuel pumps put out constant pressure and systems like FPR adjust the pressure with vacuum or other means? " With your System yes your correct return fuel system , In the Focus the ECU/PCM controls the Fuel psi which is a non return fuel system " ECU never controls pressure at fuel pump with different voltages for closed/open loop conditions? " in a non return fuel system ( most EFI cars ) the ECU totally controls the fuel pump psi , with a return system most have a Vac port and depending on Vac raises or lowers the fuel psi. " IE running rich or lean wouldn't be a function of ECU commands? " Incorrect Closed loop ( idle and part throttle ) fuel control works off the front o2 and tells the ECU what your A/F is to rich or to lean the ECU adjust the fueling through the short turm fuel trim , The stft will tell you if you need to add or remove fuel to hit the targeted closed loop fuel Open Loop Fueling ( Wide Open Throttle ) is set tables in your tuning software and depending on your WOT A/F you adjust these to hit a set A/F , I use 12.8 A/F Tom

Your in the right direction yes , Fuel psi is to high , Unhook the Vac to your regulator and see what the psi is engine running at idle ( proper way to check psi ) adjust psi to 39-41psi by lowering your fuel psi you could throw off your WOT A/F so watch that , your target WOT A/F is 12.8 and anything over 13.2 after 3500 LET OFF your lean Now we need to see what your stft1 is reading , this reading is your short turm fuel trim ( Info from your new o2 to the PCM to control fueling ) and if it is way off you could loose 1-3 MPG with very steady throttle at idle or cruise ideally you want it to read between .97 to 1.03 always switching up and down and up and down , when logging it should resemble a castle top around the castle wall if that makes sense When you log I will be glad to remote in and look at the log why its running , I use http://www.teamviewer.com if you would like the help Tom

If watching A/F on wideband why driving you have to be sure to hold throttle 100% steady , any tip in or tip out will change the wide band reading At idle if your front o2 is working and they kept the system ( Pectel ) in closed loop you should be seeing something like 13.7 to 15.7 +/- constantly switching up and down and up and down , If at idle your wide band holds steady reading either you have gone into failed closed loop ( many things can cause this , Vac leak , bad o2 , blown o2 fuse , bad wiring to o2 etc ) or who ever tuned it has put it in open loop all the time. Your closed loop is aa must to check first this is where good MPG comes from , its very hard to set the open loop for good MPG because it takes so much time to set every cell so its as close to closed loop as it can be , A lot of tuners on stand alones wont set up the closed loop properly Would like to see a picture of your front o2 and wide band bungs to see how long they are a bung that is more then about 3/8 to 1/2 MAX will pull the o2 ot of the streem and you will get slow readings to none at all Tom

I would log the STFT first and get the wideband going , I can remote into your laptop and help. I would do this first and you might not need to make the trip Tom

I am in Charlotte NC and specialize in the Zetec and Duratec Focus engines and have been for 20 years The 2 things about the guy you went to that worry me the most is , he looked at your plugs , you cant look at a plug and tell anything worth using after its been heat cycled unless something like covered in oil and I dont think you would have to ask about that , Second is he didnt know what Pectel is , Pectel has been around for decades and is one if not the oldest standalone ECU companies out there , anyone doing any serious racing/Tuning knows the name Tom

What I would do first it get the datalogging working and check the STFT1 , This will tell you what the main sensor is doing that control's your idle and part throttle fueling , then install the wideband air fuel gauge , that way if the front o2 isnt responding we can get an idea of your A/F and where to go next When you get it logging I will be glad to remote into your laptop with teamviewer and take a look at things with you and try to help Tom

Yes 10-14 Ohm would be High Impedance Injector Tom

4 wire means stock O2 as you said , you need to log the STFT1 = Short Turm Fuel Trim bank 1 and see what its doing , If its a old o2 I would change it and log it Tom

He might have the higher end pectel that uses the 5 wire wide band , he can look at the wideband and tell , 4 wire or 5 wire on the stock o2 sensor A log to see what the o2 is doing would be the first thing I would be doing Tom

He said he had a o2 sensor if he does then its running closed loop , Car starts in open loop , times out to closed loop , the o2 controls the closed loop fueling at idle and part throttle then past a giver RPM or TPS depending on how he has it set up changes to open loop for WOT Tom

Need to do a datalog and see what your front o2 sensor is doing , a bad o2 can cause bad MPG , running bad , etc Tom