1turbofocus

The 2.5 Duratec and the 2.3 Duratec Harmonic Balancers are NOT the same Tom

A lot about your new tune you posted concerns me greatly , you dont have a working knock sensor any more so him getting aggressive with the timing is a hugh mistake , he obviously had no clue what he was doing with a Zetec engine 160HP is low with ITB and a stock Zetec , something is holding you back , Intake , Exh Tune etc I would go for compression surface the head .025-.045 , a set of stg2 or 3 comp cams, adj cam gears , doing a bunch of head porting and bigger valves isnt worth the cost vs the gains ARP head studs and stock Ford HG Tom

Go to a Focus head and loose the VCT head Have the Focus head rebuilt , stock valve job , surface the head .025-.045 Ford Racing valve springs Comp stg 2 or 3 cams ARP head studs Ford stock head gasket I can do you a custom tune file to make it all work Tom

If you look around you can find some Aluminum valve covers ( rare ) and cut and weld them as needed Tom

I agree and I am not a big fan of air to water coolers , I think I can get a front mount intercooler in there somewhere and do it external waste gate Now ITB intakes will be tuff because to do boost they have to be in a box that will support boost which can be done , it would be a pricey but very unique build and fast LOL I wont do it if isnt going to be safe , make good power and look good Tom

I agree and I am not a big fan of air to water coolers , I think I can get a front mount intercooler in there somewhere and do it external waste gate Now ITB intakes will be tuff because to do boost they have to be in a box that will support boost which can be done , it would be a pricey but very unique build and fast LOL Tom

Thats a question I cannot answer because no one has done it yet with turbo , a 350hp to the wheels with Turbo isnt as brutal on the drive train as say a 350hp NA engine laying it all down at one time I have a dynojet dyno so any HP / TQ # I talk about would be at the wheel , To me thats the only place there important LOL Tom

I get cars shipped to me all the time to build or to finish , I make all my own custom piping , my own intercoolers etc This is a Turbo kit I built for a 2015 Focus non ST , This is a NA non ST / RS that I made a turbo kit for , I also customized a cosworth knock off intake to fit the 2015 which was a LOT of work to do http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/duratec-ti-vct-performance-2012-current/650585-focus-power-diy-turbo-kit.html Tom

My email is hpdyno@aol.com Phone is 704 249 3745 , I am traveling and tuning all week and will be hard to reach by phone , emails I do 2-3 times a day Tom

No one has brought me there Caterham yet to Turbocharge and I do still want to do one The stock Zetec limit is about 250hp to the wheels if you want more then that a built engine would be needed then your good again till about 600-650 above that I started breaking crank shafts A big factor would also be what PCM/ECU your running , It would been to be the stock PCM/ECU , none of the after marked ones I have worked with (5 different name brands) have ability for the knock sensor and a few other things that help keep the Zetec safe with boost I would like to do a 7 with about 350hp to the wheels , I know people are going to say its worthless and you could use the power but you can use 100% of it , My 2000 daily driver has made 723 hp to the wheels Zetec and I can use it all , I was told over 350-400 and I couldnt use any more or put it to the ground yet with amp , stereo , DOT tires A/C it ran a best of 10.95 @ 137mph 1/4 mile The 7 would be a blast at 300-350 Tom

Have you removed/replaced the stock black metal PCV canister that bolts to the side of the block behind the header ? Tom

If you want to know if the cap is leaking then wrap some paper towel around the jug and tape it on , that will show you , You have a 16psi cap , cap could be bad if you replace the cap with another 16-18 psi and it still does it then you could have internal engine issues Some pep boys have ways to test the raid cap to see if its hold psi or you can buy the tool your self Tom

I have a little experience with the Zetec over the years and feel your going about this wrong , Fuel pumps dont do hiccups to the engine , the more load you do the less psi you have till you run out of PSI or they just quit If you want to give me a call I will be glad to try to help 704 249 3745 Tom

o2 is in the Exh , In most cases from 6-30 inches in the header where the pipes all join , you should see an electrical plug in to the o2 sensor Tom

I do not feel it is a ECU issue , Tunes dont go bad and in 99.9% of the time if a ECU goes bad its wont start I would use the Autolite AR103 plugs , In all the Duratec Engines I have built dynoed they have proven to be the best but I dont feel plugs are your issues either Use a volt meter on the front o2 , see what the voltage is doing , I feel you either have a Vac leak or a bad front o2 sensor , I would put in a new front o2 and go from there If you do the front o2 test make sure you take the Batt loose for 5 min or so before testing it , you need to have your meter working when you start the engne so you can watch it from a start Tom

List your parts and prices , I have been playing with the surge tanks on the Focus and might be able to save you some money Tom

Thats great to hear , He has my number if he has any questions Tom

Surge tanks are very easy to set up and work very well , I build a lot of high HP Foci ( 400-700 to the wheels ) and the stock fuel systems wont keep up so I am doing surge tanks , feed the surge tank with the stock pump , single 044 pump feeds the engine , return line from the fuel rail to the surge tank then return line from surge tank to stock tank , works very well and dont see why it wouldnt work for the Caterham Tom

It isnt that easy , The knock sensor works in Frequency converted to voltage through the ECU , each SVT / Zetec / Duratec engine has a specific location the knock sensor has to be placed to run with the stock ECU with a lot of time spent on the sensitivity settings for each Cyl so it isnt indicating false knock , I know you have MBE which makes it worse You cant just place a KS on and engine and watch voltage and tell if its 1 Cly knocking or 4 , if its knock from other things on the engine making noise or its its actual pre ignition You would be far better off to find a tuner/dyno that is use to doing engines with no knock sensor , there is still a few of us around that had to tune cars pre knock sensor era and know how to do it safely Tom

All the testing on the dyno and racing I have done on the Duratec the Autolote AR103 have even shown gains in performance , I have never had any luck with any of the Iridium or platinum plugs and in most cases even tho the book shows there a cooler plug which you want in a performance engine they have all are a hotter plug then stock Tom

Idle and cruise you should see 13.7 to 15.7 switching back and forth at steady throttle if your using closed loop fueling WOT you want to see about 12.8 A/F after 3000 Tom

I would call Pectel and ask if there ECU cannot run both Low and High Impedance , I know for a fact some of them can just dont remember which ones it is Your fuel psi is way to high , Zetec should be 39-41 psi MAX at idle with the Vac unhooked from your PSI Regulator , You never want to raise the fuel psi to aid in proper Air Fuel I dont know all the mods you have but easy to get 30lb Inj from the SVT Focus or Mustang and those will safely get you to 190-200NA to the wheels Tom

One guys maps may not be what yours needs , Best thing you can do it work on your maps , shoot for 12.8 AF under WOT after 3000 rpm , Adjusting to your engine will always prove to make the safest and best performance Tom

I was just curious at what point Cosworth keyed there , I have done a LOT with the Focus duratec and never had any issues with not keying them Tom

Curious if the 260 Cosi had a keyed crank for the timing gear ? Tom