andrew7

Hi Dave, Glad to have you here. I know I could have put this over in the Tech section but I'm trying to keep this section active. Your the second person I've heard about using a temp gun for camber adjustments. One question, How do you get a tenth of a degree? Mine only goes to 1 degree. Mine broke and I need another so I might upgrade. I've heard because our cars are so light there is not enough weight to push the wheels back to center hence, caster is 5-10 degrees. I've been "sorting the suspension", last summer after the build about 40mph felt shakey. I added more caster and camber then up to 65mph started to feel loose. I made some adjustments and ran up to 70mph and it felt solid. Its a "nice- day" driver so I'm taking my time making changes. My 2 sets of wheels have a completely different feel. The 14" wheels felt stable at 65 but I was white-knuckle with the 13".

We will be there, dad and I. Sadly, I won't be driving the 7. 6+ hours of total drive time on the Pa turnpike with a BEC 7 can't be enjoyable. I don't know about the rest of you but those semi's are BIG when I'm in the car. Westfield booth @ 11am ch. 7:thumbs:

I agree my toe-in is alot. The discussion dad and I had were the old bias ply tires wanted more toe-in and radials changed that from 0-1/16" toe-in. Skips are set to .080" according to Cat specs, while Jeffs running 0 toe and driving well over the 100mph range. My 13s are more sensitive and don't "follow the road" as well as my 14" tires. Maybe I'll turn a nut and bring it to a 1/16". The A048s are a good match for a 7 but a little hard core. :shocked: :smash: what a goof, they came off a Ford Spec Racer, what did I expect.:willy:

STOP playing on the computer and START building. I'm not saying your not right, 2 degrees was a guess to start at but the vette weights 3 times MY 7 would it matter? I can't detect tire wear yet, seriously.

I fixxed my alignment today. I guess it settled and changed a little. Around 65mph it started to feel light and squirrelly. It's now 2 degrees camber and 5 degrees caster and about 1/8" toe in. The last could later be changed to a 1/16" but with these A048 13" tires I'm looking for stability. I figured I'd start heavy, had it up to 70 and it felt solid. I need to get the fronts tires balanced too. I started at 3 degrees caster and the car changed direction by a thought, talk about sensitive. I've been swapping 13" and 14" tires back and forth and each set has a different feel so it was hard to tell. I know each car/situation is different but what is everyone else running? trying to keep this section active:) I wonder if I can finish it for the rally:confused: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/585630236_7 photos 073.jpg :jester: its already finished, just a pic from my build:jester:

I invented this right after me and Al Gore invented the Internet.:jester: I thought I'd pass this along. Dad lost his hat twice along the road, so the last time I told him we wouldn't stop and if it happened a third. He pulled out a lashing strap tied it around his head with the strap by his chin like a trooper, almost looked like Marley from A Christmas Carol. :lol: Take 2 alligator clips and 12" of light wire attach hat to shirt, it saved both our hats several times today.:hurray: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1768291313_hatsavr 002.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/16494636_hatsavr 004.jpg

I think option B might work for you and if you need a cover buy one of those instant setup awnings that you see at the racing pits. I think if you were into serious racing now and planning every weekend traveling to a different state and track, then a larger option A fully loaded like the pics Dino posted would be the ticket. Here is mine. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1981891451_7pics 013.jpg The 17hp JD will pull it anywhere, nevermine the truck just checking lights and how to strap it down. No brakes on the trailer. A 4-cyl Ranger pulled alot of weight on that trailer. The trailer bed is 6'x10' with removable 2' sides to haul mulch 'n stuff. $8 yearly registration, no inspection, and can haul over a ton. A 1 ton truck is almost $200/year registation and I still can't fit my 7 in the bed.

Yes, turn left, push the small pedal and wait for the carnage. That's racing! :sleep: I can't wait for 2009 when they all run spec racers with different manufacture stickers. I liked it in the 70's when it was STOCK CAR racing. :thumbs: I love WRC when I can get it on cable. When was the last time Nascar racers had to drive around moose or cattle? That's it, let's get a southern farmer to donate some bulls, rubbin is racing. Then we can have a big barbecue after the race.:rofl: I so glad we have road racing.:hurray:

In the glove compartment with the driving gloves.:jester: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1174475188_7finish 003.jpg In a Ziploc taped down, at first under the drivers carpet then in the dash.

Dave, the clear vinyl is held on with 1" wide velco glued in place. Don't buy the 3M self-adhesive velco, I was told it doesn't hold well. Only 3 sides are velcroed. I left extra lenght on the front to velcro against the inside windshield frame but it doesn't seem to be needed.

The last pic it was raining. I'll say less than 2 min. I've since made minor changes to the windows that help with getting in and out. They roll up and store behind next to the roll bar. I like the half doors the most as the stop alot of wind blast. I've started using them every time I go out. The top and windows were insurance for the 777 rally. I didn't want to drive the whole way down and be miserable and wet the whole time. What is nice about this design is, it is carried with me all the time. I believe Caterham's tops with their frames are bulkier and can't be put up in a sudden rain. I got the car on the trailer to check it out and figure the best way to tie it down. I forget how small the car is. It looks like it could fit in the back of my dad's truck. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/199667700_7pics 013.jpg

bow and window pics http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1063451823_7pics 004.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/648918768_7pics 008.jpg test ride http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1745791097_7pics 010.jpg

:hurray: It worked. The 3.08 with the lighter smaller tires was the right combination. I could drive through town in third and on th highway 55mph was about 5500rpm. 1500rpm less than before, alot smoother too. The violent acceleration seems tamed down but I didn't push it much. I agree with birkin42, "Both are great options but likely one is more right for a given person and their desires." I think the bikes internals are weaker but I'm not the type to sit and do multiple burnouts or drag passes. If I wanted a racer only like Jeff's then I would try to improve certain areas that could be potential problems later. My passenger seat is 1" narrower than the drivers which is difficult to see. The tunnel is wider than normal to permit the drive shaft to run at an angle from the right side toward center with out the tunnel looking offset and goofy.

I haven't used that spreadsheet, Yamaha manual and a calc. Pete, the engine has more than enough power for anyone but the drive ability on the street is what I wanted to be clear about. I have a 2-stroke MX bike I converted for woods riding, regearing didn't help. The power was WFO acclerating or dying, no in between. The flywheel looked like a service bell, I added a 10 ounce flywheel weight and it totally transformed the engine power delivery. The lack of flywheel weight on the R1 engine makes it harder to drive on street conditions. A FZ1 motor might be better for the street with a 40% heavier flywheel. The ratios of bike trannys are very close which doen's help. If you gear for pulling out, your 6 gear cruise could be 7000 rpm. That's where I'm at now, the diff is draining as I type. 3.08's are going back in. If I were in Texas no problem but with Pa. hills starting out on a hill is a good possiblity. I think a BEC 7 is a great track car but difficult to live with as a street car. Consider carefully how YOU are going to use the car. Al refered to F1 cars, how drivable on the street are they, no starter and reverse, overheating when driven slow. I feel my car is closer to a Formula car than a Mustang and might be the ultimate sleeper. A British vintage car with a Indy soundtrack.

My driveshaft is shorter than the T'bird it came from. It was precision balanced but only because the bike engine revs so fast. If I had a car engine I would have cut and welded it up myself. Our engines are putting out 140-180hp at the crank, I have a hard time believing the output shaft bearings would not handle the stress. Love your videos, I understand your gearing problem. I have one myself. I had 3.08s but could barely pull out. I put 4:10s in because I figured I'd never hit 120mph but with the close ratio tranny the engine screams everywhere. I'm going to put the 3.08s back in with lighter and smaller 13" tires. I'm hoping between the two and driving experience it will be OK. Otherwise I'll have to order 3.55s. I don't want to have to pretend to be an F1 driver every time I pull out, although I wouldn't mine one of those umbrella girls at every stop light.

I agree with what Jeff said. Mine is around 1050 lbs. When I got my engine I could have pick it up about 125 lbs. (engine and FI only) For racing their cheap and fast, between $1000-$2000 My 2005 R1 has 170hp close to 14000 rpm. I've never ridden in a Lotus 7 and have only seen 2 old ones so I can't compare. BEC's are hard-core and very violent. Tap the thottle and it goes to 5000rpm. The clutch engagement is 1" full lockup to free and throttle has a little more travel . A sudden big bump has caused me to punch the gas and accelerate. I came back yesterday from a 50 mile ride with my ears ringing. I drove back country roads 35-55mph and my engine was turning 5000-7000 the whole time. I am changing gears tuesday, hopefully. Even with paddle shifters, shifts are clunky at a slower pace but smooth out when driven agressively. My dad and I have had several conversations about putting a car engine in just for a smooth drive. I'm going to keep it like it is and treat it like a side by side motorcycle, take it out on nice days, wind blowing and engine whinning. I'll take anyone who wants to for a cruiser ride at the 777 rally to understand a BEC but no power/dragon rides. Jeff, no one told me I had to have a 2 pc driveshaft. I have 1 long one and it works. Should I get my hacksaw and make it into 2 pcs?

My computer was down all this week.:banghead: I've fixxed my top and attached windows. I added oval spring loaded curtain rods that mount to the roll bar and windshield. I glued large "belt loops" to the top so the rods slide in and prevent flapping. I made velcro attached windows, that need refining. They take minutes to get into and seal up, plus they seal too well. Its very cozy and warm, less than 1/4 mile down the road everything is fogged up to where you can't see out. They need cut down a little for easy access and for air circulation. pictures to follow.

helping a fellow Locoster out.

For all the BEC guys I'll throw my reverse info out there. A ATV winch, a set of used cam gears without the timing chain, 2 pillow block bearings and shaft, a rear cogset from a road bike and a bike chain, and a door hinge, momentary starter switch, motorcycle lever assembly and mountain bike brake cable. The small cam gear is very close in size to the output shaft of the Bike Engine, put it on first then the driveshaft adapter. A bike cog close in diameter to the winch spool is bolted to the spool, (cutoff 1 side to get gear on spool). The second bike cog of similiar size is adapted to the pillow block shaft and a chain is used to link the two. On the same shaft the other large cam gear is adapted and mounted. A heavy door hinge is mounted on the frame and bolted to the winch motor. The whole assembly swings into and away from the small cam gear on the B.E. output shaft. A hand lever (mine is hidden under the dash)pulls the mountain bike brake cable and swings the gears into position and a lever system locks it in to place then activate a momentary switch. 1 CAVEAT: the gears MUST engage together between 3-6 o'clock on the shaft. The reason is at these positions the 2 gears, cam into each other and hold each other. On top or below on they will push each other away and NO amount of leverage will keep them engaged. This will move me backwards at walking speed but not up large grades and it passes PA. laws. My loose chain jumped a couple times and lost reverse and I still could drive the car everywhere. I've since tighten it up and haven't had any problems. A reverse box is great and I might put one on if someone bought the $1500 unit for me but I have a Locost.

test, trying to add. There up. The vinyl windows are clamped in place, not velcroed in yet. Thanks to the Red Baron for the plexy rear window idea, it works great. I have to get bows for the roof to keep it from bouncing.

test, adding pics.

I took a ride today with my finished top and doors. It made the car alot more enjoyable. It felt like riding in a 2 door with the windows down and conversations could be heard. I used Red Baron's idea about the clear plexy attached to the roll bar, it stopped the back blast of wind and the top was easier to build. I went with a tonneau style as it can be carried all the time and installed without a fuss. A full top was very confining, hard to see out of, harder to build and the wind turbulance was terrible. I have cut out the clear vinyl for the side windows and have to glue on the velcro, when finish it will be sealed and still have 360 degree vision. It will also be modular, the doors,top and windows in any combination can be put on. The only change and I suspected it would be needed is the addition of small ribs in the top. The ride down the highway at 50mph had the top bouncing on and off my head. I'll have to get those and add them before I use it again, I don't want to chance destroying it. Now for the bad news. I can't get the pictures uploaded, the software has taken a fit. I put them up before, so I'll continue to try to add them. andrew72007-04-20 18:26:00

Nope it didn't work.

I wanted to help, I copied them but after several different attemps to post the pictures, I keep getting a 500 Internal server error http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/confused5.gif . They are small files 30kb. Server on a union break http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif .

Tony, I have A048's 185/60/13 on 13x6 rims. They are sticky, I thought they were a harsh ride but that was at 20psi maybe at 15-17psi they'll be better. I only have 1 ride on them. I got them from JB racing, 1 heat cycle from a Spec Ford Racer. Mine where $45/tire 5/32" tread. Check out the "my new 7 tires" post for pics and info.