andrew7

I found this one its RWHP, its over the top but notice the low rpm power. http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1404102439_1Dyno.jpg

WELL THERE'S YOUR PROBLEM :lol: it won't upload the dyno page....seriously

I have been thinking of putting a turbo on my car, not for more hp on the top end but more on the bottom, where most of my driving occurs. The power is great from 7k rpm and up but getting from 2k to 7k feels well, slow and underpowered. I remember before I re-geared, the 4.11s worked great around town but I couldn't shift fast enough even with the paddles and cruising was painful. This is to find out from some of you if its worth while. I want to keep the pressure down 3-7psi, no intercooler, and keep my engine management stock. I was thinking about 20hp in the lower rpms might be enough. I was concern with overheating by constantly be in boost during highway cruise. I could post a general R1 motor dyno sheet but didn't want to give Mazda more anti-bec ammo when he seen 20hp at 2000 rpm, that thump you heard is him falling off his chair laughing. A member here or on another seven board works for a turbo rebuilder, (I see the pictures of thousands turbos laying around in my head don't remember where.) I want to keep it simple, it has worked great so far. A very small turbo,2 manifolds,piping and a generic FMU. My other choice is to drive it like a 16 year old with the engine revved all the time, scratch that, I'd look like a guy who doesn't know how to drive a stick. I'd appreciate any and all ideas from everybody, the BEC section was slow otherwise it would have been in the General section.

I wanted to build a car before I could drive but was waiting for a large workshop garage. Fast forward 20 years with no super garage and I was sports car deprived. I wanted a convertible, never owned one. I wanted it simple and light, nothing in the car that wasn't required. The car had to be unique and not seen every day. I wanted to build everything from the ground up. I ran across Ron Champion's book and started researching the car and its history. I've never seen a Seven before 2004 even though I've been to races and car shows all my life. I showed Dad the car I was going to build in a few years. He said, "Why wait, I'm retired your on Sabbatical let's build it now." It was going to get a 2.3 Pinto engine but a local autocrosser convinced me to use a motocycle engine. Seven long winter months later it rolled out of the garage. After the kick stand went up(inside joke) the engine fired up and sounded like a growling police dog at idle and a Formula car at redline. It also became the greatest bonding experience. My Dad and I, laughed to tears, bled from aluminum cuts, and argued till one of us left the garage. The car has so much character, everyone from children to the elderly marvel at it, including soccer moms in their minivans. I'm proud to be one of the Keepers of the Driver's Flame.

It spun to 24,000 rpm and killed it

Busa is on the ball with this one. I was going to use cables but had the ends and found the rods easier to build. You need a center pivot bar with about a 20 degree bend to reach toward the steering wheel, about 2" from center is the location for the shift rod. The rod from the tranny to the bell crank is the same rod from the R1 rearset shifter, just flipped foward. http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/2141830475_lftpdl.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/194593470_rthokup.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/997084466_engineview.jpg

Nohair.....like this? http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/688076286_int7pics 005.jpg I'm looking for other pictures but can't find them. I'm taking the car out for a ride tomorrow and I can post the new ones. The pictures are self-explanatory and can save a lot of typing. My paddles are linked via rods with a bell crank in between to turn the shift movement 90 degrees. Its easier to find neutral compared with electric or air and much less of a problem.

Hi Db, I went through this a couple of years ago. My aluminum sheets were slowly polished to mirror. I went to Eastman's polishing kit for wheels and intakes but it would only take the body to a foggy finish. I finally went to an Aircraft polish, Rolite and it works great. Save yourself time and money and go here. http://www.topoftheline.com/metal-aluminum-polish.html I bought the polish and two wool pads. It will last me many more years, a little dab will do ya.

Turn your SmartCar from this http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/583280272_smallcar.jpg To one of these in just a weekend. The Smorvette http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/729301757_file000.jpg The Smaudi A3 AWD http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1494764697_file001.jpg The Smamborghini http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1118559447_file002.jpg The Smorsche http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/732860107_file003.jpg The Smorsche Targa http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/395085981_file004.jpg The Smerrari http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1981327668_file005.jpg My buddy sent me these this past weekend

yep, couldn't load the picture so I changed the avatar.

I'm having a problem here, where do I install one these shift knobs on my car?:jester:

Mazda, I agree about the Radicals. I've seen one run at Beaver Run and he was racing himself, nothing could keep up with him. JR, mine is technically mid engine, just like the Chevy Cheetah. The engine is completely behind the front wheel. If you mean behind the seats, a British company made a kit with the looks of a Seven from the seats forward and a BEC or Ford Focus front wheel drive train and suspension. It was a nice idea, if you wanted a Locost. I can't find the website now, but I'll put the pictures up when I find them. found it: http://www.sylva.co.uk/ http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/323494572_riot-r1-main.jpg If my body was ever smashed up....everywhere. I'd build a full body like in the pictures. Mazda, do you want Frankenseven to look very cool put this body on. http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/995251818_ls1 004a.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/354822005_bthorpe3a.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1535050656_img_0482.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1927127491_picture396.jpg

you never seen this before. http://www.veoh.com/videos/v14939573TsRdJBWK

I was going to upload a few more but it won't let me, maybe later.

I had a great time too, Mike. I was surprised we had the only Sevens at the event and in spectator parking no less. The Vintage event seem smaller to me than before, a couple years ago there were at least 3 original Sevens racing. They were also running a SOLO event on the other track. I was glad to meet Bart and check out his Caymen but forgot to ask why he didn't drag his up and run it around. Mid-Atlantic Caterham ran a Fury(I think) and they paid for it by needing a wrecker. BeaverRun is becoming a better facility each year, I've sat up on the hill and watch three different races at the same time. I've included a couple pictures of the tracks and various cars running. Please don't get to picky, its a point and shoot. I hope you enjoy them. http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/278041814_vintageGP-Beaverrun 008.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1647035848_vintageGP-Beaverrun 012.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/343461579_vintageGP-Beaverrun 024.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/639233222_vintageGP-Beaverrun 026.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1621618388_vintageGP-Beaverrun 224.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1557146927_vintageGP-Beaverrun 027.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1105898485_vintageGP-Beaverrun 028.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/720199145_vintageGP-Beaverrun 040.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1730443704_vintageGP-Beaverrun 053.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/253443321_vintageGP-Beaverrun 068.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/198011186_vintageGP-Beaverrun 075.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/241130086_vintageGP-Beaverrun 076.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/811736799_vintageGP-Beaverrun 082.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/374502110_vintageGP-Beaverrun 086.jpg http://www.usa7s.org/aspnetforum/upload/1022100408_vintageGP-Beaverrun 115.jpg

I seen the Wobbly Web wheels in my Lotus and Caterham books. Just as Caterhams previous magazine before Low Flying was called Seven and they hold the trademark for the word Seven pertaining to a car. I did not want any legal entanglements with using the Wobbly Web name, hence The Wobbly Wheel, plus it sounded more like a car magazine. I'll vote for either one.

I like most of the previous titles, what about "Road Stormers" could also be used for favorite routes section. I was looking at old planes thinking Barnstormers and thought of my seven driving down the road. another one "The Wobbly Wheel" Low Down sounds like a Hispanic magazine devoted to hydraulics and riding on 3 wheels.

I thought you guys might be interested in this. I'll be at BeaverRun raceway this Saturday with my 7 (spectator only) as long as its not raining. This is the test-n-tune and pre-race event before the Vintage GP in Pittsburgh the following weekend. It's a great event and full access to everybody. My first Sevens seen racing were here and got to talk with their owners. http://www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com/6746931219135011/site/default.asp Schedule: http://www.pvgp.org/6746981220111915/blank/browse.asp?a=383&BMDRN=2000&BCOB=0&c=52914

Welcome Hank, its nice to have another BECer around. Your speedo can be fixed with SpeedoHealer, I have it on mine its an easy and inexpensive box. I set mine dead on with a GPS unit. The tire and wheel package weight will make a BIG difference in how lively your car will feel even more so than with a 4cyl car engine. I had 14" aluminum wheels and went to 13" steel, total weight went from 35# to 28#. It was so much more responsive, one of the best changes I did. As you know or will find out the clutch is either in or out and a heavier combo will be that much harder to slip the clutch and get it rolling. My other suggestion is to stay with the motorcycle gauges to pull up error codes. When I went to start my engine for the first time my R1 told me it wasn't starting because the car was laying on its side and the kickstand was down.:yesnod: :toetap: So.....I picked the car up and put the kickstand up and the R1 fired the engine up without hesitation and has run great since. (I move the fallover sensor 90 degrees and shorted the kickstand wires) I could not have started the engine without the gage and diagnosing error codes from the manual.

Al......sorry for your loss, especially before the driving season. I know of a 1962 Lotus 1500cc RHD sitting in a friends garage with many other unfinished car projects. One is my old Porsche he's converting to electric. The series 2 is a roller with red CLAMS, but you'll have to really polish the aluminum. I don't know when he ran it last, all the fiberglass was pulled off and painted but his intention was to do vintage racing with it. It will need a going all over but it is my belief it could be picked up inexpensively. I had seriously consider it myself... to have an original but I enjoy mine enough and don't have the room for another. PM me if you are interested and I will call him for more info. He may not be interested in selling it, but maybe more garage space and cash will change his mind. Paul

Hi all, We could all try channel 7 on the FRS Walkie Talkies......Come in Al, anyone there???:jester: Sorry I couldn't resist. I talked with them when I reserved my spot a couple months ago. I believe everyone will go through gate 3. All camping is through gate 3 then left on top of the hill, looking down over the show field. There will be a sticker for your car in your reserve packet that allows you entry/exit of gate 3 at anytime. I plan on asking where the Lotus and 7 club tent will be in the show field(they should know) and then drive down after the campsite is setup. I was told you can't camp behind your car in the show field. I'm not going to leave my car in the field all night by its lonesome. I should be there by Friday noon. I'm looking forward to meeting everyone again. This is the page with the maps, check out the fairgrounds map. The end of each row has a red post with letters. If it has an "N" first its up near the camping section,NORTH. If it has an "I" its Infield, between the camping and the grandstand. If it has a "C" its at the far end, near gates 5,6,7and the dyno and Kit car vendors. The single letters are between the grandstand and visitor day parking. I hope this helps. http://www.carlisleevents.com/ce/contact/vendors.asp

Only if you count trips to the Stop sign and back. The rear fenders were put on today. I think we should be sending the paper work into PennDOT the first of May and be on the road legally by the middle of June. The build is over at LocostUSA under Donkervoort/Stalker.

Mazda, I thought you would like to see Dad's radar evading seven. The hardtop and doors will be done during the summer, between rides. Some final pieces put on, finish the hood then the paperwork. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1842668317_IMG_0066 (Medium).JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1616797326_IMG_0078 (Medium).JPG

Mine only worked for 3 minutes at a time, now its up to a few hours but not accurate. I thought it was because I was the one who asked for a higher redline. :lol: I wouldn't waste any time trying to return it. The French are o.k. with a paint brush or cheese but I'll go with a swiss watch next time. No hard feelings though its a unique watch.

I have to get one of these... to match my flyin Brick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zT60SkXN1UY I thought it wouldn't be possible but with enough thrust I guess anything can fly.