Radiator vibration isolation

[jevs]

What are you guys using to isolate your radiators so they don't fail over time?

I see some built with solid mounting. I do not think this is really a good idea. For one the radiator expands and contracts as it heats and cools. Also the vibration is going to transfer right into it.

I see some are just putting a rubber washer between the metal. This is a little better, but is still metal to metal and vibration is going to transfer through the bolt mounted solid on both sides.

I know these things might last a long time because they see so few miles, but I think I want to properly isolate mine. I am wondering what others have done to accomplish this. I am just looking into it. I might play with mounting the radiator this weekend.

I just don't like fixing problems after I finish a car. I try to build them to last even if they will never see enough use for the week points to cause an issue.

Edited May 23, 2015 by jevs

[Dave W]

I've seen builders use computer mouse pads and "U" shaped brackets to cradle the rad. I just used thick rubber washers on both sides of the rad and tighten the hdw down using elastic stop nuts so you do not apply a lot or torque. 30K+ and no problems. Dave W

[JeffersonRaley]

I agree with Dave W. Mine (Birkin) just has rubber washers to absorb vibrations. Most other cars I've built use some sort of rubber lined clamp. IIRC some of the Japanese cars I've worked on bolted the radiator housing directly to the frame, but I always use some sort of vibration isolation.

[scannon]

My Caterham has four rubber bobbins to mount the radiator. The intercooler is solid mounted to the radiator. I have had problems with leaks and am on the second radiator which has been epoxied twice now but seems to be holding its own. I suspect the extra weight of the intercooler is the problem.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8848[/ATTACH]

Edited May 23, 2015 by scannon

[Off Road SHO]

I used rubber lined "hands" to hold the top and bottom of my radiator and intercoolers. No metal to metal anywhere. Most new cars use the rubber bobbin type of isolator.

 

Tom

[rx7locost]

My locost uses the eBay aluminum Civic radiator. In my installation, it has 3 posts that fit into grommets. Two at the bottom are in grommets inserted in extensions of the car's frame. These take all the weight of the radiator (and its coolant). One at the top, fits in a bolt-in, removable arm. My electric fan fits to the radiator via those plastic mounts that fit thru the fins of the radiator.

 

After 4+ years, no problems. If you want pics, just ask.

[jevs]

Here is what I came up with. I am happy with it.

http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?9794-Brunton-StalkerXL-23-Build&p=94743#post94743

[xcarguy]

My set up. In the seven years prior to my TWS accident, zero issues:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6858

[CASwede]

Link to the stock bobbin. Mine are about fifteen years old, and no issues.

 

http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=4298

[jevs]

Brand new bobbin = Fail. I noticed the rubber was moving around the edges so I pushed on it a little and it popped right apart. I am sure there are better made ones, but how can you know for sure without stress testing for yourself. This looked perfect until it came apart and then I see what looks like rust in there and that there is hardly anything metal in there for the rubber to hang on to.

 

I feel better having the top two snapper grommets. Never relying on rubber only to keep the radiator in place. I know one thing for sure. I would not buy these bobbins again. They are for Austin Mini exhaust hangers from Mini Mania. I have a stock one that is 30 years old and still in one piece even though the rubber is about shot. So not all are created equal. Not sure how you know you got a good one unless they are name brand from the USA.

[CASwede]

Those look like the bobbins used on exhaust brackets, which are different than the stock radiator bobbins. Not that it should matter, as I'd expect the exhaust isolation bobbins should be stronger than the radiator bobbin. Perhaps lack of flex is the issue?

 

Edit: I also had those same Mini mountings fail when used as exhaust isolators. Replaced with a sandwich'd shock bushing, and all has been well.

Edited May 29, 2015 by CASwede

[jevs]

These are just junk ones apparently, but any of this style could potentially separate from force or aging of the rubber. This is why I decided to use the captured ones on top. In 100 years the radiator would still be captured unless the car was wrecked hard enough to break the welded tabs or 3/8" bolts. Also, luckily I had spares laying around. For once no part order was required

With that said, I have one that came off a mid 80's Mini with everything rusted out and the rubber cracking, and it is still holding fine. So there is a big difference on who made them.