Power Brake Bleeders

[MichaelD]

Does anyone have experience using the Motive Power Bleeder on their Caterham?

 

1. What master cylinder do you have?

2. Which unit do you use?

3. Did you bleed 1,2,3 or 4 at one time?

4. In the end is this cheaper that letting the shop do it?

 

Thanks for your feedback.

[Sean]

Does anyone have experience using the Motive Power Bleeder on their Caterham?

 

1. What master cylinder do you have?

2. Which unit do you use?

3. Did you bleed 1,2,3 or 4 at one time?

4. In the end is this cheaper that letting the shop do it?

 

Thanks for your feedback.

 

I use a SpeediBleed model, the K400 as found here. The cap provided screwed right on the Caterham MC on my car. I like this one because it hooks up to a tire, and you dial up the pressure required on the gauge - about 5 psi was all it took. It makes the whole process very easy. Even I could do it! Worked on brake and clutch MCs.

 

I bled one at a time. It still didn't take long. Unsure what a shop would charge, but this is one of those jobs I would have feared doing by myself before, but find it really easy now.

[MichaelD]

Thanks. That look much easier to maintain pressure while bleeding one at a time and flushing the MC.

 

Does your car have the Girling MC?

[bsimon]

Gunson's Ez-Bleed for me. A little awkward in that you need a sacrificial spare tyre to power the rig, but effective nonetheless.

 

I found the key to good fluid changes is changing colors. I regularly switched between ATE Super Blue and ATE 200 (same stuff, just two different colours).

ATE can no longer sell blue fluid in the U.S. since it was discovered by DOT to be ... blue. (It took them 20 years to discover this.) All brake fluid in the U.S. Must be Amber or clear.

 

There are dyes available now for "off road use" that can be had to colour the fluid of your choice.

Edited November 22, 2015 by bsimon

[Sean]

Michael - Yes, kind of. I have the Girling MC for the clutch (5/8") and the AP Racing MC for the brakes.

 

Bob - The SpeediBleed is functionally identical to the Gunson, except that it has a valve with a gauge in-line, so when you remove the tire to get to the brake disc, you hook it up to that tire, regardless of the inflation pressure, and just dial in whatever pressure you need to push the fluid through the lines; too little pressure is less problematic than too much! Care to ask how I know?

[bsimon]

too little pressure is less problematic than too much! Care to ask how I know?

 

Unintended paint solvent blow?

 

The gauge and hand pump would be a nice addition. I've seen a nice bleed system made from a small garden sprayer on instructables or some such website.

[MichaelD]

Is there a dye sold in the US that works well?

[bsimon]

The dye I saw was on Jegs, summit, or some such hot rod site. I can't seem to find it again.

I may have seen UV dye used for tracing leaks and thought it was something else.

 

UV might work, but turning off the lights and using a black light adds a lot of labor to the task.

 

Looks like the color change trick is no longer valid. I guess I'll have to flush by volume from here on out.

[fastg]

I just use the easy bleeder from Harbor Freight. I think I got it on sale for $19 used it on many cars and motorcycles,

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

Graham

Edited November 23, 2015 by fastg
fix spelling

[jlumba81]

I just do something similar to

.

 

Found the kit I use. Just empty it after each wheel and rinse with water after each use.

Edited November 24, 2015 by jlumba81

[scannon]

I've tried a number of power and vacuum bleeders over the years with not a lot of luck. I prefer the two person method and there is one trick I use that gives a really solid brake pedal.

 

Once you are comfortable that clean fluid is flowing and all the air is out, do one more pump and bleed before moving on to the next brake, but this time close the bleeder valve while the fluid is still flowing, i.e. before the pedal gets to the floor. This prevents air from being sucked in through the bleeder valve's threads when the pedal hits the floor.

[slomove]

I used the speed bleeder check valve nipples for a while and they are easy enough to use when pumping with the pedal. But they are even better with a mity-vac style pump on the nipple. Just pull vacuum, open the nipple until it starts bleeding and watch that the reservoir does not drain fully (in that case I close the nipple and refill the reservoir before continuing). I don't worry about fluid color changes but keep bleeding until I refilled the reservoir 2 or 3 times plus another time for the other side caliper. Takes less than 10 minutes for all 4 corners.

Edited November 24, 2015 by slomove