yellowss7 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 What Compression ratio piston's did you go with? and is this a 2.0L or 2.3L? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 It's a 2.3L with 12.0 compression What Compression ratio piston's did you go with? and is this a 2.0L or 2.3L? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Thanks, Keep the updates coming. Mines a 2.3L with 13:1 CR Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I thought about higher compression with the rebuild but since mine is not a track only car, it was difficult to justify race gas all the time. I was so tempted with your car when the previous owner had it for sale...that motor mated to the sequential...:drool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I was finally able to get the missing pieces of my cosworth/Titan CSR dry sump. It is a 2 stage system with an integrated bell housing tank & swirl tower. Originally, i had planned to use an R400 bell housing & an external dry sump system because I could not source the swirl tower. Luckily a member who built a CSR chassis but is going with a different engine had one for sale. It is quite a bit more expensive but the whole unit is nicely integrated. It uses the uprated oil pump and a scavenging pump, which is driven from the same oil pump gear. The main pressure pump is on the right while the gears to drive the scavenge pump is on the bottom. There are 2 scavenge suctions on the pan, one in the front & one in the the back. The scavenge pump sucks oil from the pan & discharges it to the top of the swirl tower. The tower sits on top of the bell tank assembly and aerates & swirls the oil downwards to the tank. From the bottom of the bell tank, there is a suction line that goes to pressure pump which gets oil to the engine. Here is the pan all bolted up, the hard oil line connections all have double o rings. From this pic, the left is the suction to the main oil pressure pump & the left is the discharge of the scavenge pump going to the swirl tower. A pic of the 2 one-time use friction washers. One on the inside and other on the outside. The CSR bell housing tank side. Again suction to main pump is on the left while right is the discharge of the scavenge pump. Another reason why I went with the CSR setup is that the slave & release bearing is also integrated and makes for a very clean install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Special shout out to Bruce at Beachman Racing for helping me with the build so far. A wealth of knowledge in all things Caterham, especially CSR related. First class outstanding service! Bruce not only quickly replies to my countless emails, calls & questions, but the prices on the parts he has are very reasonable as well. He's also currently helping me with the crossover loom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceBe Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Special shout out to Bruce at Beachman Racing for helping me with the build so far. A wealth of knowledge in all things Caterham, especially CSR related. First class outstanding service! Bruce not only quickly replies to my countless emails, calls & questions, but the prices on the parts he has are very reasonable as well. He's also currently helping me with the crossover loom. Thanks Van! Now we need to deal with that swirl tower cap... -Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitcat Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Thx for all the pix, they are very helpful to us non-mechanical types. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboWood Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 I'm glad to see the dry sump system being put to use! Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Curious if the 260 Cosi had a keyed crank for the timing gear ? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Unfortunately, they do not on the 260, I think maybe in the 280 as an option but they recommend doing it on 300hp motors. You can buy a keyed billet crankshaft & gear though. I thought about it and kind of regret not doing it for the extra insurance. In the future, when and if i want more power, id definitely get the crank keyed or go for the $$$ billet. Curious if the 260 Cosi had a keyed crank for the timing gear ? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Unfortunately, they do not on the 260, I think maybe in the 280 as an option but they recommend doing it on 300hp motors. You can buy a keyed billet crankshaft & gear though. I thought about it and kind of regret not doing it for the extra insurance. In the future, when and if i want more power, id definitely get the crank keyed or go for the $$$ billet. I was just curious at what point Cosworth keyed there , I have done a LOT with the Focus duratec and never had any issues with not keying them Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Cams, and cams gears are in. Then it was the timing chain, crank gear, chain guides, and tensioner. To set the timing, you have to set pistons 1, 4 at TDC using a timing pin that user Papak was kind enough to lend me. Basically a bolt with the correct length that when screwed in near the bottom of the block will set the Pistons 1,4 at TDC as you rotate the crank clockwise until it hits a flat section on the crankshaft balancer. You can see the bolt in purple touching the perfectly flat part of the crank. Next was bolting up the front cover and tightening of the crank bolt. I didn't have a second set of hands and it took me about 10 mins of sweat, tears & lots of cussing to finally get the last 90 degrees on the crank bolt. I had the flywheel locked on the back end, with the cams locked, the timing pin in & a 3 foot cheater bar. I was warned and indeed it was a tough mother... but nothing a few ice cold beers couldn't cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Van, I sent you a PM I could use some tips on the assembly. thanks Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 Had some time to finally install the Titan/Caterham 2 piece roller barrels along with the CF shroud and trumpets. The pair of cylinder 3,4 intakes have to be balanced with those of cylinders 1,2 using a 6mm blank rod when fully closed. The opening is actually on the backside of the roller barrels. I love how there is absolutely no restriction when the throttle is wide open but many have said these can be a little trickier to tune. Make sure to locktite the small bolts inside the shroud to prevent them from coming loose and being sucked into the intake. High flow Cosworth injectors & coils were next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 The idler pulley, alternator, water pump pulley & belt all went on without a hitch. As far as the engine block is concerned, it is pretty much complete. The engine block is pretty much complete so I turned my attention to the bell housing & swirl tank. Upon closer inspection & dry fitting of the parts, I found that the swirl tower top cap was missing 2 ports. Titan/Caterham must have forgotten to drill & tap the 2 ports on the ends of the cap as shown here. The 2 ports are from the valve cover inlet & outlet to the oil catch can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 I tried to see if Caterham could help out & possibly send me a new cap with the ports drilled and tapped but since the part is currently out of production, it could take several months. Luckily, Bruce was able to send me a few good pictures of the cap & from looking at it over & over, I was able to figure out the different flow paths as there are several other ports that are connected & how deep & big to drill. After measuring the correct drill size, obtaining the M16 x 2.00 tap, & a few shots of Lagavulin later I built up enough liquid courage to mount it on my drill press. Drilled and tapped: From the above picture, the top port had to be drilled that it opens up to both of the top 2 larger holes. The bottom port has to go through the 2 smaller holes on the bottom and all the way to the middle port... but without drilling through to the top port if that makes sense. Waiting for some parts to move forward but does anyone have good experiences with Radtec radiators from the uk? I'm looking at this one: CATERHAM 7 DURATEC 60MM (radtec.co.uk) Seems like they make some nice rads, or if anyone knows a good multi-pass radiator that can be had here in the states? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Van, I ordered and received the Radtec Caterham 7 Extreme radiator from their site. It was almost a direct fit for my SV but the old fan did not fit so, I'd recommend ordering one with the Fan Kit installed to save some trouble. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vstryker Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Thanks for the feedback, Tom. Is the outlet (to water pump suction) of your radiator on the bottom driver side & inlet on passenger top? It looks like the extreme has the ports the opposite of what I want since my water rail outlet is on the passenger side like the CSR. I wonder if their 50 mm duratec model would be good enough & also if the extreme would even fit my smaller S3 cone. I'll shoot them an email & see. Van, I ordered and received the Radtec Caterham 7 Extreme radiator from their site. It was almost a direct fit for my SV but the old fan did not fit so, I'd recommend ordering one with the Fan Kit installed to save some trouble. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) Van, my Radiator openings are top on the intake side and bottom on the exhaust. The hose from the back of the head routes to the top of the radiator on the Drivers side, so it's the reverse of yours. Tom Edited March 15, 2016 by yellowss7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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