JeffersonRaley Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 I have a Birkin S3 with a 2 liter Duratec and the rear main seal is leaking. I don't think I have clearance to pull the transmission alone, so it looks like I need to yank the entire engine. Looking at the frame rail clearance, it sure seems like it would be easier to drop it out the bottom of the car rather than pulling from the top (really I'll basically leave the motor where it is and use a cherry picker to lift the car off of it.) Has anyone done this, and any tips I should be thinking about? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maurice1 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 I have a Birkin S3 with a 2 liter Duratec and the rear main seal is leaking. I don't think I have clearance to pull the transmission alone, so it looks like I need to yank the entire engine. Looking at the frame rail clearance, it sure seems like it would be easier to drop it out the bottom of the car rather than pulling from the top (really I'll basically leave the motor where it is and use a cherry picker to lift the car off of it.) Has anyone done this, and any tips I should be thinking about? Thanks in advance! I have removed my Duratec from my birkin S3 a number of times and dropping engine and transmission out the bottom is certainly the easier way. I remove all the ancillaries first e.g. fuel injection, alternator. I have a very low trolley on wheels that the engine/transmission is lowered onto then lift the car up and wheel the engine out. you will find it is not too bad a job. Maurice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 Thanks Maurice - it's helpful to confirm before I start pulling it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wemtd Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 (edited) I second this. I elevate the car to a comfortable work height. Remove seats, tunnel cover & prop shaft. Remove all ancillaries from the engine and secure the engine with a strap just behind the 4th cylinder spark plug (approx balance point). I like to use a chain hoist to take the weight as the engine and gearbox mounts are unbolted. Wide body should be easier. If you have the narrow body frame be prepared: iirc; left side mount bracket:engine bolts need to be removed. Right side mounting bracket:frame bolt can be removed. Oh, and don't forget to remove your grounding strap, clutch hydraulics or engine sensor connections. I always think I'm ready to start Unbolting and often find one of these still connected during my final check. Once you've done this 3 or 4 times you'll have the procedure down. Ps: gear oil will spill out the tail of your gear box if you tip it down. Have a dolly in place on the floor to receive the engine. Edited November 4, 2017 by wemtd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Agree with the previous posts but keep in mind this is for newer Birkins (maybe after 2003?). Older Birkins had the front brace under the gearbox welded in place and there was no way to drop the engine with gearbox. It had to go out separately on top which is actually not too bad with a little wiggle if all the peripherals are taken off. As for the gearbox oil spill....jack up the rear of the car as far as possible, pull the propshaft and plug the hole with the rubber boot of a walking cane. No spill when removing the gearbox! This recommendation came from Woody Harris @ MSI. Alternatively you can suck out the gear oil with a MightyVac if you have a bung in the front top plate. If you don't, having the gearbox out is the time to install one...so much easier to check oil levels and refill or change oil with that. I welded a simple 5/8" UNF nut (or was it 1/2"?) to the front left corner of the stamped cover plate (after drilling an access hole) and used a regular short bolt as plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papak Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Once it is elevated, I rest the front on the frame on a 2” steel pipe supported by jack stands on each side. If you remove the front wheels, you can spread the jack stands sufficiently to give you a lot of space under the front of the car. I bolted a plywood panel to a low transmission lift ($79.99 courtesy of HF). This extends far enough back to support the tail shaft of the transmission as well as the sump. Once everything is disconnected, just lower the lift and roll the complete drivetrain out the front. When you replace the rear seal, be sure to apply sealant to all of the rubber sealing surfaces. Also apply sealant around the shifter rod that passes through the front of the T-9. The paper gasket is insufficient to provide a true seal. I had to pull mine to fix this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Jeff, if you get the car airborne, the engine will drop right out. :jester: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 Brutal!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropaSeven Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 I pulled my 2.0 Zetec out the top set it on 2x4s across the frame to pull the head. Trans stayed put. I didn't even unhook the 0il pressure gauge plastic tubing from the engine. replaced the clutch release bearing before going back together. Dale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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