JeffersonRaley Posted September 14, 2020 Author Share Posted September 14, 2020 For once I'm ahead of schedule. I started the car this weekend and it is running great. Still lots of small stuff left to do before I take it for a drive. The M-Unit is working great. One silly-but-fun feature is Keyless Go. When my phone approaches the car the lights blink slowly. Then I can hit the started button once to power the ignition. Hit it again to start. Double-tap to kill the engine. Another double-tap (or walk away) to kill the ignition. One cool thing that I've learned is that Autometer publishes the calibration of their senders. Very convenient when you need to tell your ECU how to convert Ohm or volts to temp or pressure. I went ahead and ordered a wireless steering wheel controls from Cartek. I tried to use a cable, but it just won't work smoothly in the space we have. The Cartek controls are very slick and will let me keep my dash super simple. That will probably lead to me reworking the entire electrical panel layout since I need to fit in one more black box. The bad news is that my AT Power dry sump pump is leaking. This thing has been a nightmare for years. There really isn't enough space for the external pump so you can't get the fittings tight. I may have to replace it with the Raceline dry sump with an internal pump. Really don't want to have to take it apart again, so hopefully I can get the leak stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 Everything is wired up and working. I have one steering wheel button open, which I'll probably use to start the video camera at track days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarko Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 Wow! Impressed. That’s a slick set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 The M unit looks like a great upgrade and that is definitely under consideration after your write up but I don't have the funds so... I did however spring for a wheel control upgrade, and after looking at Cartek and Summit Raptor (both were a little pricy) I came across a NRG product at Vivid Racing that would seem to cover all the bases at a much lower cost over the other two, (with $20 coupon came out to 340 bucks) https://www.vividracing.com/index.php?keywords=NRG+8+Channel+Wires+Controller+Unit The Relays are mechanical opposed to solid State as in the Raptor Pro (not sure what the cartek specs are) but I do not see that as an issue. In addition does not look like it comes with the button stickers again not a deal breaker as the price is close to 50% less that the alternative This unit fits a 6 hole wheel so I called NRG tech at NRG and they said this should fit a MoMo 3 hole wheel if not I guess a i need to get out the drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted September 28, 2020 Author Share Posted September 28, 2020 @Brightonuk The NRG wheel controls look good. Definitely a nice price! Share pictures when you get it in. Cartek is very similar to Raptor. To me the advantage of Cartek is that they build a lot of racecar electronics, so they are used to making things last in harsh environments. I wasn't as confident in the Raptor longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Jefferson - great to hear about your progress! I'd love to see your final wiring diagram if you have a chance. I'm curious how many traditional relays you needed to add, outside those catered for by the M-Unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted October 1, 2020 Author Share Posted October 1, 2020 @Ferrino - I only added 2 relays. One for the fan and a second that powers a fuse box when the ignition is on. Things like the AIM dash, ECU, sensors, wipers, etc all come off of that. I almost certainly could have skipped that one and just powered the fuse panel straight from the M-Unit. The final wiring diagram matches what I posted. It all worked out as expected. There are a few things that aren't on the diagram, like power to various sensors. I'm still deciding whether to add lights to the dash that show ECU codes, ignition on, fan on, EWP on and things like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Slight Snag with the NRG or any wheel button unit I have a MoMo Mod 260mm wheel with no center hole, the unit needs a 48mm mounting hole for the electronics so: I have to figure out the center of the wheel I am using the 3 mounting holes as the basis. To find the centroid of any triangle, construct line segments from the vertices of the interior angles of the triangle to the midpoints of their opposite sides. These line segments are the medians. Their intersection is the centroid. OK got that bit after looking at 3 Youtube videos (Should of paid attention in school) And hopefully within that area I have room for for a 48mm hole Jeff What wheel are you using Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 @Ferrino - I only added 2 relays. One for the fan and a second that powers a fuse box when the ignition is on. Things like the AIM dash, ECU, sensors, wipers, etc all come off of that. I almost certainly could have skipped that one and just powered the fuse panel straight from the M-Unit. The final wiring diagram matches what I posted. It all worked out as expected. There are a few things that aren't on the diagram, like power to various sensors. I'm still deciding whether to add lights to the dash that show ECU codes, ignition on, fan on, EWP on and things like that. Thanks. If you moved your coolant fan to a separate relay, what did you end up using the AUX2 output for? Water pump? Does your Cartek module work with the "park" function on your wipers? Where are your injectors and ignition coils getting power from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 @Ferrino - Yes, the Aux2 controls the EWP. I could probably have run both the fan and EWP off of it, but I really want the EWP to come on much earlier. Right now I'm not running a thermostat, with the theory that the EWP will basically act as a thermostat by coming on as the engine heats up. I actually don't even have a thermostat housing at the moment because of the water rail and blanking plates I'm using. Yes, the Cartek works with the park function. Basically there are 3 + wires coming out of the wiper motor. One gets power all of the time, and that it what enables parking. The other two are for low and hi speed. So I just have a latching button for low and another for high. The only slightly weird thing is that you can have low and high on at the same time. That actually works fine, but then you have to turn both off to stop the wipers. New Raceline dry sump is here! So this weekend I'll install it. With the right luck, the car might run again this weekend. More likely I'll need some fittings or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Everything is wired up and working. I have one steering wheel button open, which I'll probably use to start the video camera at track days. Jeff The headlights "on and high low" is this function controlled by one button? If so did you achieve it via the button on the wheel or via the M-unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 Curious how the "Bluetooth Keyless Go" works when you have a key switch also? Do you toggle between using either the key or Bluetooth to unlock the system? Or is the Bluetooth always supplementary to having the key switch closed? Curious what happens if you use Bluetooth to unlock and the M-Unit loses pairing with the phone. I like the idea of keyless ignition - I've just always had a bad experience with my phone's intermittent Bluetooth connections with cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SanderGA Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 I love the idea of the M-unit and as the new owner of a 27 year old car, I know electronics aren’t forever. However, I’m not inclined to pull out my existing wiring harness and replace it with an M-unit. I can see that going very badly and my new car sitting idle for a very long time. What I’m thinking is installing it, by which I mean bolting it to the car, and then using it as the fall back system as electrical circuits fail. For example, my radiator fan, and right rear turn signal have failed. My brake lights also failed but I got them working again. Can I install it, switch those circuits over to the M-unit and leave the rest of the wiring as is? I know I would need to hook up the ground and positive from the battery and perhaps a couple of other things. I’m really asking if a staged approach is possible and makes sense. Thanks for any thoughts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 Jeff sold me so I am asking Santa for an M-Unit for Xmas There are lots of good install guides and reviews for the M-Unit on Youtube (all of them are for Motorcycles but still it all just 12v wiring) Revival Cycles is also very helpful in answering questions. Jeff has a good basic layout and here is one from Revival which is also easy to understand still for motorcycles but might be helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted November 15, 2020 Author Share Posted November 15, 2020 You certainly could do that, but I think it would just lead to more pain and frustration. I think you'd end up with a bird's nest of wiring that would be very hard to diagnose. But I'm pretty picky about wiring and tend to rewire all of my race and restoration projects. I probably put 20-30 hours into rewiring mine. But that was a new ECU, new digital dash, all new button controls and the M-unit. I replaced almost every wire on the car. I did invest in a Brother Ptouch labeler that prints on white heat shrink tubing. That made it much easier to keep track of everything. If your rad fan and turn signal have already failed, then it might be time to bite the bullet. Then again, my car was down for about 2 years while I got my engine rebuilt and I rebuild everything else. I love the idea of the M-unit and as the new owner of a 27 year old car, I know electronics aren’t forever. However, I’m not inclined to pull out my existing wiring harness and replace it with an M-unit. I can see that going very badly and my new car sitting idle for a very long time. What I’m thinking is installing it, by which I mean bolting it to the car, and then using it as the fall back system as electrical circuits fail. For example, my radiator fan, and right rear turn signal have failed. My brake lights also failed but I got them working again. Can I install it, switch those circuits over to the M-unit and leave the rest of the wiring as is? I know I would need to hook up the ground and positive from the battery and perhaps a couple of other things. I’m really asking if a staged approach is possible and makes sense. Thanks for any thoughts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted November 15, 2020 Author Share Posted November 15, 2020 Celebrating! My Seven fired up again on the new engine. I actually had it running a few weeks ago, but had to take it back apart to replace the AT Power dry sump that never really fit. Now it has the Raceline dry sump. While it was apart I went head and put the Crower Stage 3 cams in. This motor made 240 on the Stage 1 cams, so I'm hoping for 250+ with the more aggressive setup. Anyway, the car fired right up and sounds brutal. Just a few more sensors to calibrate, and a couple of AN fittings that need to be replaced, and I should be able to hit the road. This car was shockingly fast with 170 horsepower. I can't wait to drive it now. Of course, nothing will ever compare to riding in Xcarguy's LS powered Stalker. Wow is that thing is nuts. But mine should be acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffersonRaley Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 My Seven is finally alive again. Celebratory burnout as I pulled it back into the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Congratulations, JR! Can't wait to see/hear it in action! I finally bought my M-Unit Blue, after months of trying to decide between this and a PDM. In the end, I decided that I preferred the simplicity (and price point) of the M-Unit setup and didn't need the hassle of the PDM programming and CAN bus functions. The only downside, as has been mentioned before, is the M-Unit could do with a few more circuits for EFI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 I was going to run aux out from the M-Unit into one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001580700470.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.17fe7deddjlplh&algo_pvid=704a1b56-dc7d-47f7-82ac-c1f35f5bd8c1&algo_expid=704a1b56-dc7d-47f7-82ac-c1f35f5bd8c1-0&btsid=0bb0623b16071960662732350e5599&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Also available stateside but as I am not in any great hurry AliExpress seemed to be the most cost effective option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Yes, but that doesn't create more capacity - you are still limited to 1x20A and 1x10A aux outputs. It would be hard to get all EFI outputs on there (fuel pump, fan etc). Then you may need wipers, instrumentation, wideband, ECU... I was going to run aux out from the M-Unit into one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001580700470.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.17fe7deddjlplh&algo_pvid=704a1b56-dc7d-47f7-82ac-c1f35f5bd8c1&algo_expid=704a1b56-dc7d-47f7-82ac-c1f35f5bd8c1-0&btsid=0bb0623b16071960662732350e5599&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Also available stateside but as I am not in any great hurry AliExpress seemed to be the most cost effective option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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