tractive electronic damper installation

[repsna]

Got my dampers a few days ago, this will be the installation.

Eylets of the dampers are pretty thick and I hope they do not interfere with the rocker or chassis?

The front reservoir tube connection I hope does not interfere with the vertical chassis tube. Will see when the car is on the ground. Bolts are not tight yet.

The Controller wil be under the scuttle. Electronic not connectd.

Will keep you updated.

 

 

[Croc]

Hi Hanns Per - How exactly are you proposing to install the control panel display? You say the controller is under the scuttle? If so how will you make changes for the 6 presets? I think I misunderstand? Thanks mike

[repsna]

Hello Mike, the contoller will be positioned as You can see on the picture between the scuttle wall and the swoopy dash. Simon from raceshocks said he installs it infront of the scuttle wall in the engine bay, but I want it where it is on the picture.

The display for setting up (I think there are only 5 presets) will be put into the dash in the middle infront ot the gearstick, will see if it is enough to make the presets via display or if I will use the knob. It will depend how easy one can make the settings when driving on a small display. On the other hand I assume once all the presets are made changes will be minimal if at all. How is Your installation going? Will provide more pics as I progress Hanns Per

Edited December 27, 2019 by repsna

[Croc]

Thank you for clarifying. Initially I thought you were meaning the digital display was under the scuttle with the controller which is a pain to remove and access (is drill out rivets, etc). but I understand your thinking now. For me, have not started anything yet.

[Patrick]

How are things going with the tractive electronic dampers? Any update or observations to share?

[repsna]

Instalation finished I will bring the car on the ground next week and strat the system and hope to be on the road 2-3 weeks keep you updated anso with pics

[Sean]

Curious -- Is there a reason the front and rear dampers are installed inverted relative to one another? Looks like limited room on either end!

[Nick OTeen]

With any shock absorber you typically want to mount it such that the "spring end" is mounted to the suspension arm (or rocker, as shown in the first photo in post #1). This keeps the (heavier, fluid-filled) body of the shock relatively still while the lighter spring and shaft of the shock do all the rapid movement. That way the oil in the shock is agitated less which can reduce foaming of the oil. This also reduces unsprung weight in conventional, direct (no rocker) mounting to a suspension arm such as that shown in the photo of the rear suspension (second photo) in post #1.

Edited April 3, 2020 by Nick O'Teen

[Croc]

With any shock absorber you typically want to mount it such that the "spring end" is mounted to the suspension arm (or rocker' date=' as shown in the first photo in post #1). This keeps the (heavier, fluid-filled) body of the shock relatively still while the lighter spring and shaft of the shock do all the rapid movement. That way the oil in the shock is agitated less which can reduce foaming of the oil. This also reduces unsprung weight in conventional, direct (no rocker) mounting to a suspension arm such as that shown in the photo of the rear suspension (second photo) in post #1.[/quote']

 

Excellent summary - thank you!

[BruceBe]

It's all about minimizing unsprung weight. Please describe how fluid is "sloshing". Foaming is caused by cavitation and heat.

 

Cheers,

-Bruce

[BruceBe]

A couple of quick ones:

1) Tractive want that controller at the mid-point between the front and rear axles. Mounting in the engine bay will not accomplish that - good decision.

2) You might want to rotate those front dampers - the suspension is currently at full-droop, and those banjo fittings are already rather close to the central frame member. I'd rather have a bit of contact at full droop, which involves forces associated with the mass of the suspension/wheel components. As currently positioned, if contact is made under full *bump*, the forces will be much higher, and effectively bottom the suspension on the loaded corner. That will cause infinite spring rate, overload the loaded tire, and result in an immediate under-steer situation. There's no easy choice on the packaging, since those fittings are located in a poor position for the CSR.

 

Cheers,

-Bruce

[Nick OTeen]

I didn't say anything about sloshing.

[repsna]

I put the car down today to set the ride higth with the springs. Dampers where locked. Then I switched on the controll unit (ignition switch 12V switched). The first thing I noted was the dampers are not quiet. There is a permanent high frequency sound from all 4 dampers. Might not matter in a normal car or race car will see how it does when the engine isrunning and when touring. Did play witht he setting knob which is very simple to handle. Keep You updated after the first ride. PS: car still not finished struggle with getting the 9A9 running.

[repsna]

thks for Your input Bruce.

Yes I am concerned about closeness of the vertical frame tube and the banjo. Its about 2mm under normal load know. I had Penskes previusly with the same setup without issues and was not aware of the bulky tractive banjo. Thats how I defined the canister tube. I will make a full load test to see ift the banjo touches or not. Let You know.

[repsna]

just tested att some pictures seems to be safe and OK

Edited April 7, 2020 by repsna

[repsna]

here is a short clip of the dampers sound

[BruceBe]

Just curious - how much bump travel was that?

 

-Bruce

[repsna]

the pictures in the previus post show at which travel I I measured. I hardly can imagine in reality it would travel more and even if it wouldn touch.

[repsna]

some feedback on my first few 100 km with the Tractive electronic damper and my installation. I changed from very good Penske 3way dampers for the sake of being able to change damper settings while driving to adapt to different road situations. I only do road not race. With the Tractive Dampers from Raceshock's Simon (great Service) I use the same springs I had with the Penske's.

 

There is turn press knob to make the settings: I tried this but it is much more convenient with tapping on the display. In damping quality I would say both shocks are equal. One has the possibility to set front dampers rear dampers roll and pitch. It is a great experience when one can change settings during driving and one can learn very fast about the effects of different setting. With the setting on all 4 parameters on full - damping there is no slush feeling and one senses the road very good with the backside.

 

THE GREAT thing however is the roll damping in turns. It is such a great feeling when You go into turns and the car stays even!!!!! I feel more confident with these dampers in turns than with the Penskes.

This is a first feedback after only a few days driving.

[repsna]

some more feedback after a 850km/3 days blat this week , more and more I like the possibility to adapt damping from perfect road surface to bumpy roads. Even with a setup of full damping it does not get stiff as with the Penskes full hard setup there is still damping. I experience that aggressive driving is less stressful with active dampers.