papak Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 Just installed a Deltran in the Birkin. My Braille finally gave up the ghost after 5 years. Nearly a third of the weight of the old Braille B-129 (3.2 vs 9.3 lbs) The only issue with installation is that the Deltran is slightly narrower at the base in both dimensions. This needs to be factored in in the mounting design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarko Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 Wow looks tiny:) let us know how it holds up:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltermitty Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 I have one of those in the Van's RV4 with IO-360. I have a Ballistic in the Birkin. Ballistic went out of business. Both about the same size, weight and output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papak Posted October 5, 2020 Author Share Posted October 5, 2020 The weight difference is striking. The new battery weighs about as much as the packaging of the old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papak Posted October 11, 2020 Author Share Posted October 11, 2020 OK, here's a weird one. After installing the new battery, I did a couple of starts in the garage and everything worked as expected. With the engine running, it measured 13.2v across the posts, no change on acceleration. I fired it up this morning at 0620 for a run through the Santa Monica mountains and I started getting an intermittent alternator light once I was out on the road. I pulled over and checked all of the connections. I couldn't find anything amiss and as the voltmeter was indicating 13.9v, I pressed on. The light would go out at idle but continued to flash intermittently under acceleration. Screw it! I went on to have a wonderful morning drive. I am wondering if the flashing light is the result of an interaction with the BMS on the new battery. Has anyone else seen this happen? Interestingly, the vm indicated 14.2v with the old battery but indicates 13.9v with the new battery. Anyway, the scuttle comes off tomorrow in order to recheck all of the appropriate wiring in detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksurveyor Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 Check the belt tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papak Posted October 12, 2020 Author Share Posted October 12, 2020 It’s fine, hasn’t changed. I plan on giving Deltran a call this week as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papak Posted October 13, 2020 Author Share Posted October 13, 2020 I spoke with a gentleman at Deltran this morning. He said that the BMS is designed to accept ups to a 10a charge with any excess bypassing the cells. He hasn't heard of any interaction with an alternator light. I may get to pull the scuttle later today to start to check the rest of the wiring across the kill switch etc. This may be delayed as i am having a great time setting up my new Quick-Jack lift (quarantine gift to myself). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pokey Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Interesting phenomenon, like you I would have expected the same 14.2V with the engine running. I wonder if the alternator warning light is due to the BMS protecting the the battery and the alternator's current spiking briefly as a result. Any chance your alternator is larger than your battery can accommodate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papak Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 The fellow I spoke with at Deltran couldn't really speak to this. I'm running a 40a alternator through a 10a fuse. The max charge rate for the battery is 40a. The problem isn't evident from the basic numbers. I finally have time today to check the wiring and do some diagnosis. Inquiring minds want to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 If you don't have an amp meter installed, you could temporarily install one to monitor operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pokey Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 By now you probably have this figured out, but another thought came to mind. The BMS might also protect against temperature and not just input voltage. As a test of this or over or under voltage conditions, you could reinstall your old battery (or any lead-acid battery) connected to the alternator alongside your new battery so the alternator has somewhere to dump the charge if it is the BMS. The answer may not be to replace your battery, but to install something to protect the alternator should the battery be disconnected while the engine is running (by the BMS). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky-7 Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) I just bought and installed a Battery Tender by Deltran, 6.1 AH 360 CA Battery in "Ruby" today. 3.4 pounds $169.00. We'll see what happens. So many choices and input it gets confusing after a while. Edited April 23, 2021 by Lucky-7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky-7 Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 I know they say it shouldn't be charging at over 10 amps and most of our alternators' are capable of putting out 40 Amps, but if I recall my basic electrical theory, they will only put out as much as needed. Therefore, if you are running your headlights, heater wipers etc. The alternator will meet the demand. If the battery is keeping a good charge it will be lower amps to the battery. We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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