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Thermostat housing for Crossflow header tank intall


NSXguy
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Hi guys, 

i've been doing some research and finally going to tackle this upgrade and the only part i'm having a hard time zeroing on is where to source the correct thermostat housing with the vertical pointed nipple (pictured below). 

 

Reference schematic. 

791181747_Headertankforcrossflow.jpeg.jpg.828a9c8d722b823617186993c85895d1.jpg

Something like this. 

ford-escort-crossflow-thermostat_360_8f6ab61597b7d551e88730cf26b7c6d6.jpg.c7845efd8927ca3c44e47d3ddaeaca66.jpg

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Are you looking for a setup like the photo that also has provision for the fan switch or just that has the nipple?  A quick search shows the one in the photo is from a 1.3i OHV Escort:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/ESCORT-1-3i-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-OHV-HCS-ENGINES-BRAND-NEW-1995-2001/251958942442 Although it's an Ebay listing so I should have prefaced that with "supposedly from..."  If you just need a housing with the nipple, this one from Burton's could work if you don't mind drilling a hole in the boss for a brass nipple.  https://www.burtonpower.com/thermostat-housing-with-boss-cast-alloy-x-flow-rwd-fp612.html  

 

-John

 

 

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Thanks for sharing that John. My current setup has a manual switch in the cockpit to turn the fans on, but ideally i would prefer with this upgrade to have the fan switch on the housing and operated off water temp. Alternatively i could leave the fan switch as is, and just install the housing with nipple and get on with it; that's if the other option proved too challenging but i don't believe it would be...seems straight forward enough. 

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I used something similar to this on mine to put the temp sensor in the lower hose.

I think it was an old Saab part, but you get the idea.

Then I just have an air bleed from top of water outlet to tank.

 

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AutoMeter-2283-Water-Temperature-Radiator-Hose-Adapter,113688.html

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22 minutes ago, 7Westfield said:

I used something similar to this on mine to put the temp sensor in the lower hose.

I think it was an old Saab part, but you get the idea.

Then I just have an air bleed from top of water outlet to tank.

 

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AutoMeter-2283-Water-Temperature-Radiator-Hose-Adapter,113688.html

 

Thanks for answering one of the questions i was starting to look into. So if i understand,  you relocated temp sensor into that saab piece and used the nipple on the waterpump housing for the header tank, yes? 

 

Few pictures of what my engine bay looks like. As an aside, ive noticed a few quirks on my car compared to many other period sevens. For one, car doesn't have the cross brace infront of the engine. I noticed some guys have their radiators mounted more forward in the nose cone area. 

 

My engine bay:

IMG_9082.jpg.7456dcc436a44a0c1165fd0abfb14212.jpg.               IMG_9081.jpg.73e79833a069e7a1771641369d250c3c.jpg

 


Other engine bays (X Brace):

64C262C0-6544-4913-A632-F7F04C371805_0.jpeg.3a1aff90445985dc2fa3cbc4ce97c575.jpeg                                               575387945_7Baycopy.jpeg.16294ab28cfa8b98779cb141b608ed0b.jpeg

 

 

Edited by NSXguy
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Yes, water pump fitting becomes the fill point, and air bleeds back out of the top of thermo housing to tank.

Be sure to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in the stat to let air by when filling.

If you put the fill line to the water pump, what are you going to do with your gauge fitting? On mine, I moved the gauge to the left side of the head, under the stat. There is a 1/8 pipe thread hole there, and I enlarged it to 1/4 to take my sender, but you can't do that on all engines due to casting variations.

Burton also has the water outlet like the one with the red hoses.

 

If you use that housing, just put a solid cap on it, and the "overflow" fitting becomes your air return line.

Edited by 7Westfield
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9 minutes ago, 7Westfield said:

Yes, water pump fitting becomes the fill point, and air bleeds back out of the top of thermo housing to tank.

Be sure to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in the stat to let air by when filling.

If you put the fill line to the water pump, what are you going to do with your gauge fitting? On mine, I moved the gauge to the left side of the head, under the stat. There is a 1/8 pipe thread hole there, and I enlarged it to 1/4 to take my sender, but you can't do that on all engines due to casting variations.

Burton also has the water outlet like the one with the red hoses. Maybe use it for your sensor, and add a tap for the air line?

 

Possible misunderstanding- I thought the saab piece you referenced earlier is what you used to solve the relocation of the water temp sensor to the lower rad hose (which seems like a good solution).

 

Plan:

-Relocate the existing water temp sensor into the saab adapter piece you linked, then with the bung on the waterpump housing now free, repurpose for coolant fill,

-The new thermostat housing will have the air bleed nipple to new header tank and a bung for fan switch (which i'll rewire to eliminate the manual switch currently in place).

 

Sound correct or am i missing any other piece(s) ?

 

1822283_L_21f587c4-5c3a-4087-965a-8ae0818642aa.jpeg.6dc3da08d785650ea8aeb7a6dffc2f70.jpeg

s-l1600.thumb.jpeg.2a65b651bb3cf2b56c3f001d7453bddf.jpeg

 

 

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Nope...I have the fan switch in the lower hose with the Saab thing, gauge bulb is in the head under the stat, and an air bleed tapped into the top of stat housing

 

Your intake manifold is different than mine, maybe use the fitting meant for heater line as fill point, and leave gauge as is?

I wouldn't like the gauge as you have it, much better info if it's on the "hot" side of the circuit. Maybe put that adapter I mentioned in the upper hose where you now fill, and put the temp gauge there? Then you can fill thru pump.

 

My car is a 85, sure different from yours.  You have a diagonal brace under the carbs, mine is on left side. My steering column is farther outboard than yours -goes between clutch and brake pedals- and the header is really close to the block, inboard of the diagonal.

 

As to rad location, mine came with it against that crossmember and a real crappy pusher fan. Now it's forward just enough to slip a sucker fan between it and frame. The important thing is ducting in front, making sure all the air HAS to go thru rad.

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Thanks for the discussion and inputs, I'll run with that. 

-Re-using bung on water pump for fill from header tank and relocating the temp sensor to upper rad hose using the saab adapter as suggested. 

 

As for rad placement, i will take some measurements to look into that as well. If i'm going to relocate that with a puller fan, it'll make sense to do before the header tank mod, so the rad hoses only get made up once. Fun. 

cheers, 

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OK  MY BAD.....I should know better than to post without looking

 

the Saab thing is in a drawer, altho it would work fine  it was plan A

here's a pic of what's actually going on      I just welded a bung onto the original 90 degree pipe  that's the fan control switch

and a shot of where the temp gauge goes in under the stat--fitting for air bleed on top

it's all apart for conversion to 5 speed

 

DSCN0290.JPG

DSCN0291.JPG

Edited by 7Westfield
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