Brake pad advice- increasing rear bias

[KnifeySpoony]

I assume you're asking if I'm running the standard Sierra calipers? The answer is yes. But not for long.

[KnifeySpoony]

Well went to Laguna today - on the drive own pedal felt fine but I figured do a quick rebleed before first session then fuel up. On the way back from the pumps, the pedal went to the floor. Tried bleeding but it was just endless air - I think it's just getting sucked in the failed piston seal. Had to get a tow 90miles home. Good riddance to these POS rear calipers. Given me nothing but trouble from day one. My uprated brakes were already in the mail and I can't wait to get them on.

[KnifeySpoony]

On 11/24/2022 at 7:23 PM, SK400 said:

KnifeySpoony 

Did you install a proportioning valve after all? If so, does it change the pedal feel and travel?   

 

I was told by someone to avoid the proportioning valves.  I’m asking because I’m considering installing the rear AP racing brake kit from Caterham I had ordered 2 yrs ago and never installed.  It comes with Pagid pads and of course the two piston calipers and concerned that I will increase the rear bias more than I’m looking for.  Thoughts? 

Just finished this and bled the system today. I do think the valve does something to the pedal feel. Sitting in the garage, when i press the brake, if the bias valve is open you can hear and feel a click within the valve and you can also feel it in the pedal. Like the pedal hits a wall and firms up. But if the valve is closed to max, no noise and more consistent/natural pedal feel. Not sure if it will be noticeable in track though. 

 

Did you ever do the upgrade? 

Edited March 10 by KnifeySpoony

[SK400]

I’m in the process of installing.  In fact, I’ve been struggling to get the right fittings to connect properly to the bias valve. I assume caterham fittings are ISO bubble connectors.  
 

How did you install your bias valve?  Next to the driver and cut through the rear copper line or closer to the master cylinder? 
 

if the pedal feel firm when the valve is closed, that’s at least a good sign.  But I think what you are describing is what Roger at Meteor Motorsport warned me about.  
 

I’m trying to install in a way that I can remove valve or change if I don’t like the feel.  

[KnifeySpoony]

4 hours ago, SK400 said:

I’m in the process of installing.  In fact, I’ve been struggling to get the right fittings to connect properly to the bias valve. I assume caterham fittings are ISO bubble connectors.  
 

How did you install your bias valve?  Next to the driver and cut through the rear copper line or closer to the master cylinder? 
 

if the pedal feel firm when the valve is closed, that’s at least a good sign.  But I think what you are describing is what Roger at Meteor Motorsport warned me about.  
 

I’m trying to install in a way that I can remove valve or change if I don’t like the feel.  

 

I made on the thread on the install: 

 

 

I left the solid line in the car in case I ever want to go back. I figure if I always ran the valve open and it interfered with pedal feel, I could just pull it out and revert to the old line.

 

 

Oh and I had it backwards - when the valve is set to minimum rear brake, you can feel the mechanism reduce flow, hence "hitting the wall".