Replacing Engine Mounts (Cosworth 260 Duratec)

[sltous]

I was reviewing some items on my car and noticed cracking in the engine mounts.  I have decided to replace them and the new items should be delivered today or tomorrow.

 

Is it viable to lift the engine slightly with a floor jack (with a block of wood perhaps) or is it a better idea to use an engine hoist?  I have the Titan dry sump and the dry sump / bellhousing so I'm not sure where the safe lift points would be if they exist.

 

The CSR engine build manual does clearly specify where the front and rear lifting eyes would be bolted and I believe I have identified those holes on my engine and both are readily available to receive bolts so this is likely my best option but I am open to advice where it's available.

 

 

[Croc]

I know of people who have replaced engine mounts using just a floor jack.  I have done it on a regular deDion car but not a CSR.  Definitely use a piece of wood to spread the load across the base of the engine.  

 

As you do it, keep in mind you are still attached to the gearbox and by extension to the tailshaft to the diff.  So go gently and stop if you think you think you are getting binding from that area.  You may have to disconnect tailshaft and maybe some of the gearbox mounts to get the movement you need.

[coffee break]

It looks like the bolts go thru or into the motor mount. In that case the motor needs to move a minimal distance up. This could be done one at a time. Remove bolts from one side and loosen bolts on the other side. Slightly jack up the motor and slide the old mount out and the new one in. Loosely install the bolts and lower the motor and repeat the process on the other side. As Croc noted, the trany mounts may need to be loosened to aid in this procedure. 

Good luck, you've got this.

[bball7754]

I replaced mine ( S3- Crossflow) using a jack.  It was fairly early in my ownership, and I remember it being a longer and more frustrating job than I expected.  But, ultimately it worked.

[sltous]

I decided if it's good enough for the factory it's good enough for me and used an engine hoist and the lift points as specified in the manual.  To be on the safe side I had my floor jack in place under the engine-bellhousing mating point and only removed one side at a time.

 

Process was pretty straightforward:

Lift the front end to clear the legs of my hoist

Loosen the transmission screws slightly so the transmission could shift around if needed

Apply a small amount of lifting tension to the engine

Remove the big bolt into the rubber mount

Remove the little bolts holding the mount to the frame

Remove the old mount

Put the new mount in

Install the little bolts holding the mount to the frame

Realize the engine shifted enough when I picked it up I had to remove the bolts holding the mount to the block <- Only surprising part of the process

Loosen the bolts holding the mount to the block

Install the big bolt into the rubber mount

Do it all over again on the other side

Torque all the bolts to spec

Remove the hoist and jack

Put the car back on the ground

Check all the bolts are still torqued to spec

Be a bit sad it's getting dark and I can't take a quick run to check everything is good