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Everything posted by sltous

  1. I purchased my uprated AP racing master cylinder from Beachman Racing. http://www.beachmanracing.com/master-cylinder I would recommend adding the brake master cylinder race cap (or similar) http://www.beachmanracing.com/brake-master-cylinder-cap-race, I could not get my cap with fluid sensor to seal properly and was getting brake fluid leaks until I put this cap in place. Dramatically improved pedal feel in my application.
  2. Thanks @Sidewinder but I think these are too wide for me. I picked up a spare set from Kampena yesterday so I am no longer looking for myself. I did see that a seller in Newcastle CA has a set of Compomotive CXRs 13x7 front 13x8 rears with Avon ZZRs mounted for a pretty good price on Facebook Marketplace https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/633246501164072/ . NMNA but I would have been very interested if I had seen them a week sooner.
  3. I'm lucky to live somewhere that I can drive most months of the year but during the wetter cooler winter months I think it would sometimes be nice to drive on ZZS or similar tires rather than R888R. I think the Compomotive CXRs would be preferred but some others may be nice as well. Not looking for maximum performance but don't want to buy cheap spare wheels and then also expensive spare wheels. Currently have the 13x6 fronts, 13x8 rears 4x108 PCD
  4. 1962 S2 with a Pre-Crossflow Kent in Missouri https://www.ebay.com/itm/393705324810?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&siteid=0&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&toolid=20008&campid=5335981329&customid=with-subcat
  5. @UlfarE I have most of a stock 2.3 duratec head on hand, feel free to shoot me a private message if you find out you need any of it before trying to order parts, or if you want to look at the internals to familiarize yourself
  6. @UlfarE I have a 2.3l duratec on the peninsula not too far from Mountain View as well, but mine is the Cosworth spiced up model so there may be relatively little in common.
  7. It looks like this car was sold through Hillbank? If it's the same one I'm looking at you look to have an ITG aluminum backplate similar to this one https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=12936 and spare air filters should be readily available. Weird that the listing does not show an air filter. It looks like this may be the Zetec SE / Sigma engine. I know Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham in Colorado had a Sigma engined car up for sale recently, he may have good guidance. Burton Power has a relatively minimal section on this engine but it is often a great resource https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-zetec-se-tuning-guide.html?p=1
  8. Hey @UlfarE I was just briefly at Alice's both Saturday and Sunday, sorry I missed you. I agree that the intake suggests that is not a Zetec. Is it possible you have a Sigma or Duratec engine? I'll be out of town for a bit but would be happy to try and schedule a meetup sometime once I get back. You might consider either TrackSpec in Fremont or Kampena Motors in Sonoma. Kampena is our local Caterham dealer and is a pleasure to work with, although I have not had a need to bring my car in to him yet. My understanding is TrackSpec does a lot of Lotus Elise/Exige/Evora work.
  9. Thanks for the thoughts on the AIM software. I had not considered thinking of street use as a 'rally,' that may help me understand what I can expect from the software. With respect to the kangarooing as a symptom of a soft throttle spring, the roller barrel ITBs seem to have a pretty hefty return spring so I don't think this is my issue but it may be work checking out.
  10. I have been interested in adding some data logging to my car but I am primarily expecting to use the car (and the data logging) on the street rather than on track. Primary goal is some pre-diagnosing problems so I'd be interested in GPS logging of engine parameters (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, rpm, TPS, etc) probably with a button to 'tag' unusual behavior for review. For instance: over the weekend I was on a nice drive but found myself forced to stay at very low throttle due to other cars on the road and I was experiencing some kangarooing around 0% throttle where the drivetrain drag would slow me down then applied throttle would accelerate and the cycle would repeat. Ultimately was able to rev out the engine on a passing section and regained confidence everything was OK but it would have been nice to have a record I could review at home. The car has an unlocked MBE9A4 ECU so it may be that the easiest thing to purchase is an AIM or similar data logger and connect over CAN. I have been interested in the AIM PDM or similar products so I could get additional data streams for 'free' from a weight and wiring complexity standpoint. My uncertainty is if AIM software is well suited to street use as the mapping will certainly not be able to find a track for mapping. It would be a fun addition if the software could recognize the same sections of road and allow me to compare various time spent on the same section over days/weeks/months but this is not a primary goal for me compared to recording for potential problems.
  11. Have you reviewed if the dip switches can be adjusted? My speedometer never worked so I have a speedhut GPS replacement but I believe you can adjust how the speedometer reads out without changing rubber. https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/speedo-inaccuracy If you have the Caerbont speedometer this is their calibration procedure for the 8 switch model. (pdf warning) https://www.classicinstruments.com/userfiles/files/Manuals/8 Pulse Speedometer Calibration Instr.pdf
  12. I had a loose connection in the fuel pump relay at the black plug before the grey plug connecting the MFRU to the vehicle loom. Some guidance at https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/cut-out-and-now-wont-start. Looks like pin 13 in the grey sumitomo plug, although my problem was corroded pins one plug towards the main harness from this plug.
  13. I have a bundle of the soft bits for sevens sockets and studs if it would be helpful to measure anything on them. Supplied to me with 0.152" (5/32") rivets, 0.5" long. @ukchris Based on McMaster Part 95707A130 https://www.mcmaster.com/95707A130/ these are measured based on the OD of the base and not the snap mechanism. All the spares I have look to be 14mm base, 10mm snap mechanism, which is approximately 0.55" base 0.39" snap mechanism. @BlueBDAA previous owner of my car appears to have installed my sockets in these locations with sheet metal screws into the frame. I have two snaps in this location, one into the frame one into the skin on the inside of the car. I would probably drill and tap M3 if I was doing it fresh or M4 if I had to tap out the existing hole into the frame, and will probably put a rivnut in for the other.
  14. Consider giving Dave Bean Engineering a ring at (209) 754-5802. When I needed Kent parts they had what I needed or can source what I thought were hard to find parts fairly readily. http://davebean.com/
  15. Take a look at the Burton Power Tuning Guides: https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides.html They have some photos for each of the gearboxes that are most likely to be the one you have plus some notes on where they came from and relevant parts. This might help you chase down what you have.
  16. https://www.ebay.com/itm/194290380261?hash=item2d3c9bede5:g:~NgAAOSwxPthGbVs RHD Replica (reportedly) built with S2 chassis from Arch Motors and a pre-crossflow Ford 1600 for auction ending Sunday 8/22
  17. Without knowing all the details of the Zetec, I found that using a cheap oscilloscope and measured across the crankshaft position sensor. What I expected to see was a waveform such as this one and instead got a waveform such as While you may be able to analyze this dropout with a multimeter, I found that being able to see the CPS dropout made my debugging much easier. where my yellow trace is the RPM signal and my blue trace is the output form my crankshaft position sensor. You can see that the missed tooth signal is not coming through at exactly the same time that the RPM signal drops out and this really didn't leave me with any alternative explanation.
  18. My old Crossflow would do this, there was enough vibration for the crankshaft position sensor I installed for a distributorless ignition to shake out of position and lose track of the trigger wheel. I made a much sturdier mount and it fixed the problem.
  19. Locost with S2000 running gear, SB100 registered in California Craigslist ad: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/pleasanton-for-sale-lotus-replica-with/7336554642.html Locost USA ad: https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=20950 Locost USA build thread: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510
  20. I recently bought a Zetec->Duratec (CSR 260) swapped Caterham, previous owner replaced the motor mounts and cut a new intake in the hood and exhaust output. There is a long thread about his experience on the forum here swapping the engine. Power is pushing my skills, I've noticed tire chirp up to 3rd gear but I've been really enjoying learning to manage it. For me, the passenger exit exhaust is a real plus, I started with a Kent Crossflow powered Locost and didn't enjoy the overrun noises so close to my head so I was really looking for the passenger side for a car I hope to keep long term.
  21. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/grass-valley-lotus-super-kit/7332250422.html California (non-op) registered. Ad claims 2000 Lotus Super 7 kit built
  22. I have a Caterham 6 speed gearbox. Kind of wish 6th gear was taller for longer trips.
  23. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/menlo-park-caterham-280r/7316089328.html 2019 Caterham 280R - California registered
  24. Just received a very nicely packaged shipment yesterday from vstryker. Spare head for a Duratec, all parts were wrapped up individually and the box was filled with plenty of foam, no damage I could see
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