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Hi @LATa yes the car is still available, available to see (and drive) on-site at Rocky Mountain Caterham in Golden Colorado. I can answer questions here or via PM.

Asking price is $48,000, I'll update the post to include that. Standard floors, although I have a set of new, yet to be installed lowered floors included in the price.

Due to an upcoming family move to Europe, I am putting my Caterham up for sale. As far as I know this is the only S3 chassis with the 260hp Cosworth engine from the CSR260 cars. Whenever possible, I maintained the car with Caterham parts and bought extra parts to make ongoing maintenance easy. The Cosworth CSR260 engine is a great engine with good documentation from Cosworth and Caterham. California clean title in hand, SB100 smog exempt. Asking price $48,000. Located at Rocky Mountain Caterham in Golden, Colorado. Please contact Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham to view the car in person, either Josh or I can answer any questions about the car. I've included some photos, you can see additional engine bay photos on the previous for sale ad on this site. As the car is on site in Golden, Colorado I will do my best to pull from my setup notes and photos but Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham will be the best contact for current photos. Updating with more photos from Josh's listing at https://rockymountaincaterham.com/2005-superlight-260-cosworth/ Since purchasing this car, I have made no significant changes, only worked to continue to set this car up to be a reliable backroad car. The torque from the 2.3L Duratec engine makes it easy to drive slow, and the 7700 RPM redline, rated 260 HP, and roller barrel throttle bodies makes it fun to drive fast. I took it to Laguna Seca once and Sonoma Raceway twice. I've owned the car since 2021, driving the car approximately 10,000 miles, for a total of 26,500 miles on the chassis. Reliability Improvements: Installed differential struts to help reduce torque steer Replaced a failed driveshaft universal joint. Switched to using a large Raceco muffler which required a small amount of fabrication as the Zetec - to - Duratec engine swap meant the exhaust system switched from the driver's to passenger's side. Fixed a few minor electrical issues from 20 years of exposure to the elements A bit of headlight wiring The fuel pump failed due to corrosion on one connector The O2 sensor was incorrectly wired I have done Blackstone Labs tests on the engine oil and differential oil and they passed with flying colors. Specs: 2005 S3 Chassis Engine swap to CSR260 Cosworth engine, dry sump oil system 2x Unlocked MBE9A4 ECU from SBD Motorsports and USB cables Secondary higher pressure fuel tank to feed the swapped engine, holds approximately 1 gallon fuel Inline fuel pressure regulator Roller barrel throttle bodies Titanium Raceco muffler Radtec radiator and SPAL fans 6 speed Caterham transmission Limited slip differential Differential struts to support the higher power engine Nitron 3 way adjustable with progressive springs, valved for Caterham 7’s from Simon at Meteor Motorsports 4 piston AP Racing upgraded brakes and vented discs on the front wheels Standard solid disk brakes on the rear wheels Soft brakes lines on the rear brakes 4x 13" Orcus wheels in dark grey and 4x 13" Apollo wheels in silver Tillet fixed back bucket seats Standard Caterham 5 point harnesses installed Rapfix quick release steering wheel Aero screen with CF mirrors Windshield FIA rollbar AIM Evo5 datalogger with 37 pin connector Homemade 22 pin aux connector for AIM Evo5 AIM Smartycam 2.1HD 84 degrees with external microphone Tonneau Covers (Driver and Passenger) Soft Bits for Sevens half doors Removable scuttle (rivets drilled out and replaced with rivnuts) for easier dashboard work Lotus badge replaced with Cosworth Super 7 badge Spares New Sabelt 6 point harnesses ready to install New seat lowering kit New spare bare aluminum hood Standard Caterham muffler New Lifeline quick release and upper steering column

If you don't have a functioning O2 sensor I'm not sure I follow the fuel pump causing engine shutoff unless your pump is stopping for long enough you are fully running out of fuel to the injectors. There would be no lean signal for the ECU to use to cut spark

You've got something weird going on with an ECU ground probably. Maybe somehow the ground path is going through the clutch assembly. I would find a pinout for the ECU, trace back the grounds and one of them is probably on the gearbox housing or the engine block and your ground strap from the chassis to the engine block is probably missing or failed.

I found the easiest thing to do was to depin the TPS connector and measure between the center signal cable and any chassis ground. Eventually you're going to end up needing an Easimap cable in my opinion. I've attached the setup instructions that Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham sent me. WRNOT 608 - Roller Barrel Setup Ford Duratec Engine.pdf

Some details from a classic mini forum: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/117159-brake-test-switch/

I pulled up the build manual to remind myself of how big that set of bolts are. For an M10, the stack up comparison would be: 2.0mm for a typical steel spring lock washer, 2.0 mm for a typical steel flat washer A typical nordlock washer style set from McMaster would be 2.3mm to 2.8mm https://www.mcmaster.com/91074A180/ and for stainless steel a pair would take up just 1.8mm to 2.3mm https://www.mcmaster.com/91812A255/ This seems to indicate that switching to a nordlock style of washer would give back a washer thickness and should be sufficient. I probably wouldn't bother doubling the cost to switch to stainless steel to gain 0.5mm of engagement but there are still gains to be made there.

Two thoughts. First, 3 threads is technically sufficient but ideal is 1.5 x diameter of the screw. Second, consider either Belleville lock washers or better yet Nordlock/Wedgelock washers. Nordlock are excellent locking washers and are not intended to use with an additional flat washer. https://www.nord-lock.com/learnings/bolting-tips/2010/can-i-use-other-washers-with-nord-lock/ both may be likely to marr the surface of the dedion ears but they should not meaningfully damage it. https://www.nord-lock.com/learnings/bolting-tips/2016/what-effect-will-nord-lock-washers-have-on-my-surfaces/

I had some fun with the extreme version of your tape experiments if you want to take a look at the RAM air scoop data I had

I think this thread and link may explain it better than I can: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/254262-alternators-leds-and-resistors/ http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/alternator.htm#theory In essence, the ignition light on the newer gauges is LED and does not have enough resistance for the alternator charging circuit to correctly turn off the LED when the alternator kicks in without the parallel resistor.

When you unplug the resistor does the red ignition light come on in the dashboard and stay on vs. turning off after starting the engine?

They are probably black oxide steel locknuts such as https://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/558633/nylon-insert-locknuts McMaster, Amazon, etc have them

Josh @ Rocky Mountain Caterham may still have a line on the 622 Sabelts https://sabeltamerica.com/product/cc-622-full-2/?v=7516fd43adaa

I have had good luck with rock climbing shoes. They have a relatively stiff sole with good feel and are very narrow.

1964 Lotus Super 7 S2 Chassis SB 1780 with pre-Crossflow Cosworth 1500 https://motorsportsmarket.com/racecars/lotus-super-seven/

Speedometer is TE Connectivity AMP 174044-2 the tachometer seems to be the same. I pulled one of my spare female sockets off the shelf and it mates correctly to the cable entering the rear of the tachometer. Mouser part number 571-174971-2 (straight pins) or 571-1740492 (90 degree pins) for the female socket. Mouser part number 571-1759642 appears to be the male plug.

At idle: Easimap: 0.41 volts, throttle site 0.3 Throttle Position Sensor: 4.61 volts At approximately full throttle: Easimap: 3.58 volts, throttle site 14.3 Throttle Position Sensor: 1.438 volts 9a4 Unlocked ECU, TPS Ford part number 988F-9B989-BB Measured from TPS as shown in picture below, connected one test lead to signal wire and second test lead directly to the battery's negative terminal.

Sent this offline as well but others may have helpful information. I believe this is a Titan Motorsports part sold under Caterham, Titan, and others. I do not think the Cosworth part is the same. I would check in with Titan (and ask for an exploded view of the system for part number references later) to see if they can provide feedback on if some of these machined parts are just wrong. Titan will sell individual components if you reach out via sales@titan.uk. https://www.burtonpower.com/titan-roller-barrel-throttle-body-ford-duratec-he-i4-tbi4.html Agree with KnifeySpooney, this looks to be made wrong and taking an angle grinder to this part is likely satisfying but a bad idea unless you can replace just the component. Would be happy to have a RBTB car meetup to look at the minor differences. I have a spare head if you want a more accurate test bed than screwing to a wood board.

The decibel measurements is a handheld meter set to record the max level and I can take a look at a stoplight and remember the peaks. The rest is the MBE 9a4 ECU connected to an AIM data logger over can bus so piggybacking off the engine control sensors.

Finished fitting the Zolder 150 intake to my car this week. I was looking primarily to reduce noise through the foam air filter on the Caterham Roller Barrel Throttle Intake. 1. Does it work to reduce noise? Firm maybe! In testing, the intake showed a 10db drop at idle from 90db to 80db compared to no intake, with the expected return to 90db when measured in front of the opening. Further, there is a clear change from intake being the loudest part of the car over 4k rpm to the exhaust being the loudest thing over 4k rpm. At highway speeds, running 4500 rpm at 80mph both the intake and foam filter setups had an indicated 103db putting the decibel meter in the passenger footwell, I have no idea if that is chassis/body panel reverberation, exhaust noise, or wind noise. At non highway speeds, revving to 6700 rpm with foam filter only was an indicated 106db, I do not have the same measurement with the intake fitted but at the same 6700 rpm the exhaust noise was clearly louder than the intake noise based on my uncalibrated ear decibel meter. Both cases I had the Raceco 7.25″ exhaust fitted. I would assume 2-3db drop is about the maximum inside the car. I have not tested in a driveby. 2. Does the Ram air effect work? Firm probably! At 80mph after fully coming up to temp the intake air is at the same or slightly increased pressure (increase of ~0.1psi, indicated intake pressure increase) and inlet air temperature is flat while the under bonnet temperatures increase. Without the intake at 80mph after fully coming up to temperature the intake air is at reduced pressure (decrease of ~0.1psi, indicated intake pressure increase) and inlet air temperature continues to increase along with the under-bonnet temperatures. These are not large effects but it is definitely a different behavior! I'm not really horsepower limited (I'm mostly skill limited) so the added power was not a huge goal but it was fun to validate the marketing claims. 3. Does it look good? Looks are subjective. The bulk of the intake ends up essentially taking up the visual space that would otherwise be full of headlight bucket so it is minimally disruptive. There sure is a lot of carbon fiber visible now. 4. Is it worth fitting? Gigantic pain to install, I can't suggest this as a good idea. You have to really want the noise reduction (still too loud to drive without earplugs), really want the extra ~2-3hp at speed, really want the carbon bling, or really got in over your head (like me) and become determined to finish for the personal satisfaction. I ended up cutting apart Reverie P/N R01SE0502, glued back together and patched the inside with some carbon cloth. R01SE0502 ended tapering from 120mm to 50mm, fitted a custom aluminum backplate similar to R01SE0437 FACEPLATE adding approximately 6mm thickness bringing my total assembly to approximately a 60mm to 130mm taper. Followed this adjustment by converting P/N R01SE0590 from PX600 to JC50 specification and then adding a second "JC50 Zolder air box carbon fibre bracket" clamp to the top surface allowing for the cutout on the bonnet to be an acceptable size while still clearing my assembly. The cost of parts is very high, there is a ton of custom and stressful carbon cutting, drilling, gluing, laying up, and sanding. Wear a really good respirator! Happy to share files for my aluminum backplate design, I used an online service that cut them, bent them, and mailed them fully formed.

I have only had the unit from Meteor Motorsport about 2500 miles ago but I have not noticed any slop. When I apply a small angle (3-5 degree) steering torque to the wheel at rest with tires on the ground, I can see the steering rods actuate immediately and it appears that the tire sidewall deformation is coming before any looseness in the quick release. Huge improvement over the standard Caterham/Lifeline Quick Release that I had before but it has had a lot less usage and a lot fewer removals and reinstallations.

If you are already planning on a quick release column and you are looking to bring the wheel towards you the Meteor Motorsports sourced Bell Rapfix quick release https://meteormotorsport.com/shop/caterham/steering-wheels/rapfix-racing-caterham-quick-release-and-top-shaft/ added about an inch of additional column/quick release length compared to the standard Caterham quick release upper column I replaced due to excessive wear. I am not sure how that compares to the fixed upper steering column. Cost is somewhat high compared to fabricating a one inch spacer on the lathe.

Partially completed kit in Sonoma, CA area: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/d/el-verano-lotus-caterham-super-kit/7666504687.html By the way, it looks like Search Tempest has started using a technique to map all advertisements 1,000 miles from [location] to get around Craigslist's rate limiting, I am not sure how effective this is but it may be an option to bring back Craigslist advertisements to this aggregator.

Perhaps. However I already have a hole in the bonnet for the sausage filter and I am therefore not looking for an under bonnet airbox.