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Prop Shaft Lube


sf4018

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I’m in the process of taking the engine out and noticed a label on the prop shaft that says to “ensure the unit is fully lubricated with a lithium based grease before use”. I didn’t do that on the original install, did I screw up or is this just a cya? Does anyone know how to fill it up? All I see are some spring clips on each joint.

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Lithium is the most common grease used for both prop joints and wheel bearings but not good for cv joints (extreme pressure with moly-disulphide added such as flat tappet cam break in lube) . Historically, calcium base was for the chassis for waterproofing and sodium base was for higher temps. I use common, synthetic name brand lithium for chassis lube, ujoints, and wheel bearing packing. There are many kinds of lithium grease so make sure it is labelled for wheel bearings to use for the ujoints.

If there is a grease fitting, it should be on the center cross body or have a fitting in the center of one of the caps. Sometimes, there is no fitting. Ujoints are standardized and cheap. Replacements usually come with a fitting.    

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can you rotate the shaft to look for zerks?  they can be very hidden in a u joint.

Is there grease slung in the tunnel around the joints?

Your joint looks clean, like sealed bearing,  but I don't know if sealed would have circlips.

 

I have a loose shaft (not really) and it looks a lot like yours (I hope not)

20221119_170020.thumb.jpg.33465fa9af3c3e1d9202975dd0806fdb.jpg

 

Flip it over and there is a grease zerk

20221119_170035.thumb.jpg.6f130bbc073c38ecba6b7d5e49c62cdc.jpg

 

Edited by IamScotticus
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Here's a lousy picture of mine.  The grease nipple is located in the center of the photo.  From what I've read, the cars are shipped with the u-joints pre-greased, but many consider it a good idea to top them up because...well, Caterham.  'Nuff said.

 

zerk.thumb.jpg.569b16859369229bbd903af3e504f275.jpg

 

-John

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Thanks @JohnCh. Engine is out, one of the axis on the knuckle on the driveshaft is seized up so now I know where the vibration was coming from. I guess it wasn’t greased from the factory. Is it possible to replace the u joints with the driveshaft in the tunnel? I really don’t want to have to take the whole rear apart to get the shaft out 😭.

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1. make score marks on the flanges so you put the shaft back on in the same orientation. 

2. The differential flange bolts are not usually high torque items, so removing and assembly isn't difficult. 

Drive shafts are usually simple items.  Now is a good opportunity to take it to a drive shft shop and have the balance checked, any repairs done and grease toped off.

Edited by IamScotticus
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From your pic, assuming the driveshaft is still coupled to the diff, it looks like your slip yoke is bottomed into the trans. I can't say for cats, but standard practice for IRS and live axle is the installed driveshaft length puts the slip yoke about 3/4 inch from bottoming in the trans. This allows the driveshaft to be uncoupled from the pinion flange and slide forward to clear the pinion nut and with a live axle, prevent damage from bottoming with axle suspension travel. Most cats I've seen have the tunnel fully boxed so if the clearance exists, it may still be impossible to remove the driveshaft with the diff mounted.

You might try just unbolting the diff and sliding it rearward and lifting it up. Hard to tell from you pic.

After replacing the joints, if the joints feel notchy when rotating the ends, one or more needle bearing were left out during assembly.

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5 hours ago, MV8 said:

From your pic, assuming the driveshaft is still coupled to the diff, it looks like your slip yoke is bottomed into the trans. I can't say for cats, but standard practice for IRS and live axle is the installed driveshaft length puts the slip yoke about 3/4 inch from bottoming in the trans. This allows the driveshaft to be uncoupled from the pinion flange and slide forward to clear the pinion nut and with a live axle, prevent damage from bottoming with axle suspension travel. Most cats I've seen have the tunnel fully boxed so if the clearance exists, it may still be impossible to remove the driveshaft with the diff mounted.

 

You might try just unbolting the diff and sliding it rearward and lifting it up. Hard to tell from you pic.

 

After replacing the joints, if the joints feel notchy when rotating the ends, one or more needle bearing were left out during assembly.

There was a small amount of slip yoke left, maybe 1/2”, the diff is fixed and the gearbox will have I guess a small amount of movement but I can’t imagine it would move that much, so I think it’s fine.

 

The driveshaft can only be removed as is going backwards unfortunately. A local racer is bringing over something called a u joint puller to see if the joints can be serviced in the tunnel. Not familiar with that tool but he seems to think so.

 

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I've seen tools like that but I think it will be a nightmare to use in that tunnel. If the engine is out, pulling the trans forward a foot should be easy. Just unbolt the mount to the chassis, pull off the shift lever and boot, unbolt the slave, and slide it forward enough to bring the shaft out the front. You could cut a couple boards to sit across the chassis rails to support the trans in the engine bay if needed, so no need to lift it out also.

It is a good idea to crayon marks on the slip yoke, pinion flange coupler, and the weld yokes on the tube so they go back together the same way. Easy job with a bench vise and the right od sockets (one much bigger socket to force one bearing cap out of the yoke and another to push the bearing cap in from the other side at the same time in the vice.

Edited by MV8
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We managed to take apart the u bolts in the tunnel. There was no grease in the universal joint, completely dry. There’s also no zerk or any way to grease it. We IDed the universal joint as a moog 340. We’re going to get a moog 341 with the zerk. I can only assume the shaft was assembled incorrectly by the supplier to Caterham.

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Edited by sf4018
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