M79 TAB

[slowdude]

Hey All, 

 

Figured I'd document some surprises and minor repairs. Saw some similar pages so I won't document some of the plans.

 

Please give me direct feedback if I am doing something wrong etc. It can only help.

 

Background on the car: GBP crashed in Sept, and I took about 15k out of the market in August, so this was my end of honeymoon/wedding gift to myself (came back in early September). I had been looking at cars in the US for almost two years, lurking on posts etc.

 

I came across a de dion for an affordable price and shipped it over.

 

In hindsight I'd probably have someone else check it, but I figured it couldn't be too bad. So far it has not been.

[slowdude]

Topic one:

 

Frame mounts and rust.

 

After the drive from the port of NJ, I threw it up on jack stands in my garage and noted some gunk on the rear frame mounts. 

 

Being ever cautious, I grabbed a wire wheel and some POR15.. thankfully a lot of the crud in the first picture was just that, crud.

 

In the second photo, I was able to find good metal underneath.. which is a huge sigh of relief. My plans to track this car would result in a bigger amount of work to be done. So far I am cautiously optimistic! Goal is to get the rear suspension pieces and brakes and then start replacing bits.

 

Edited January 8, 2023 by slowdude

[MV8]

I can't tell how bad a shape it is in assembled. For now, I suggest pulling the bolts to check the condition of the bolt shank and hardware between the frame and arm, remove the rust you can access with an abrasive wheel made for removing rust, replace the hardware if corroded, and brush on rustoleum heavily rusted metal primer instead of por15. You can save por for when the parts have been fully restored. Use wheel bearing grease on the bolt shank to protect and prevent seizing to the bush liner. Good hardware can be found from mcmaster, ebay, or even a home improvement store depending on what is needed. Generally grade 5 for SAE or 10.9 for metric.

[slowdude]

27 minutes ago, MV8 said:

I can't tell how bad a shape it is in assembled. For now, I suggest pulling the bolts to check the condition of the bolt shank and hardware between the frame and arm, remove the rust you can access with an abrasive wheel made for removing rust, replace the hardware if corroded, and brush on rustoleum heavily rusted metal primer instead of por15. You can save por for when the parts have been fully restored. Use wheel bearing grease on the bolt shank to protect and prevent seizing to the bush liner. Good hardware can be found from mcmaster, ebay, or even a home improvement store depending on what is needed. Generally grade 5 for SAE or 10.9 for metric.

 

Absolutely agreed. I'm waiting for confirmation on my suspension order and will pull everything then clean and POR. Thank you for the heads up on the grease. Just a light coating you think?

[MV8]

Just a finger wipe will do and help to prevent water from entering. I also grease or oil threads on most anything that isn't a prevailing torque fastener like a nylock.

[slowdude]

Quick update. Got an abrasive wheel (thanks to @MV8's reccomendation) which was much gentler. Touched up some spots with POR15. Will go back and get some more in a bit.

Still waiting on redline to ship upgraded spindles. Rear brakes are on their way from bigg red.

 

 

Edited January 29, 2023 by slowdude
I'm dumb

[slowdude]

And another update. 

 

Needed to setup the garage with some integral items. HF bench grinder with brass wheel has helped take a lot of surface rust off old bolts.

 

Today I was able to get the old ear off + bearing and fit brakes / hub / bearings/ de dion ear.

 

Thankfully the inside of the de dion tube was nice and clean... no evidence of water. Some sealant for around the de dion ears should keep it that way.

 

A-arm needs total replacement. Gunked the bolt over for now and will use encapsulator when ready to replace A arm.

 

Currently waiting on machine shop to put helicoil in the one bad hub, and on a thin 15mm wrench to put pads in. Getting much closer!

[MV8]

Wire grinder wheels for removing rust from threads are typically steel but may have a golden coating. The wires do fly out on occasion and stick into whatever so wear glasses, or a shield, or at least position to where there is not a straight line from the wheel center to your face.

I don't know if the hub thread condition had anything to do with damage being repaired, but wd-40 (or equivalent) and a tap and die set is a must have to clean threads on older equipment before reassembly. Hbf sets are ok if buying the middle cost set and the tools you use regularly/wear out can be replaced individually with name brand taps and holders. "HSS" is fine. No need for the golden sets. Taps that are embossed with markings are junk.

Match up the tap by diameter and check thread pitch by laying the cutting threads against the bolt that came out of the hole. It should mesh perfectly. With the T-handle, 1/4 turns in until you feel resistance, then back and forth a few times to feel the resistance diminish. If it is really bad (full of gunk making it hard to turn the tap), back it out completely and blow out the hole then resume. If you see silver slivers, threads are being cut and you are probably trying too hard but if you have damaged threads, some silver slivers can't be helped. Never use a power tool or a lot of hand effort with a tap. They can break off in the hole if overstressed and that can be a big problem that will probably require a machinist to correct.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/specialty-hand-tools/tap-die-sets.html

For cleaning gasket surfaces and removing rust without removing metal, two inch, 3m scotchbrite discs (Rolocs) are excellent and long lasting. They have a couple threads to lock them into the rubber drill arbor. Here is a ryobi kit with everything or you can find the 1/4"shank arbor and red discs separately.

 https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-2-in-Surface-Conditioning-Disc-Set-16-Piece-A911602/318211161

[slowdude]

And big update.

 

Rear calipers/pads/radius arms /dedion ears all replaced and torqued. New axle nuts done as well.

 

Rust proofed as much of the chassis rails as I could, then coated with por-15 or encapsulator.

 

Front hubs were salvaged with new threads, plus new bearings packed in the hubs.

 

Front calipers froze immediately after getting off the car, so will be rebuilt for the winter. Put a replacement pair of spitfire calipers on from moss.

 

Did a big bleed session and have put about 100 miles on it since finishing this work on Tuesday.

 

I put new bolts / washers / nuts to replace the old seat bolts which were 4 different types of bolts/ washers, plus a new SFI Schroth harness.

 

Thank you to everyone who offered advice and guidance. I truly appreciate the community and hope I can give back in the future. 

 

 

The only outstanding items now are:

 

A-arm replacement

Radiator replacement (original from 1994)

Valve tappets (super noisy and a bit of a concern it could lead to oil loss. Better to be preventative on this, but this is outside of my capabilities.

 

I drove it to work- you can barely see the rollbar above the hood of an X3 or X4. Very similar to driving a motorcycle, no one sees you or understands what you're able to do.

 

 

[MV8]

Regarding the "super noisy" valve train, I urge you not to drive it in that condition. I suggest changing the oil and filter. I'd use a cheap 5w30 for the moment, replacing a quart with "Marvel Mystery Oil" (essentially air tool oil). Run it with this in the driveway until the engine is fully warm. If it stops ticking in the driveway, drive it a few days then change the oil and filter again. You might upload a video so we can hear this noise, but I am assuming it might be the valve train lash actuators(lifters) not fully pumping up due to the wrong weight of oil or sticking from varnish, hammering the valvetrain.

[slowdude]

25 minutes ago, MV8 said:

Regarding the "super noisy" valve train, I urge you not to drive it in that condition. I suggest changing the oil and filter. I'd use a cheap 5w30 for the moment, replacing a quart with "Marvel Mystery Oil" (essentially air tool oil). Run it with this in the driveway until the engine is fully warm. If it stops ticking in the driveway, drive it a few days then change the oil and filter again. You might upload a video so we can hear this noise, but I am assuming it might be the valve train lash actuators(lifters) not fully pumping up due to the wrong weight of oil or sticking from varnish, hammering the valvetrain.

I think you're spot on. Good thing I have some oil filters.

 

I'm seeing a lot of oil recommendations for k series engines, some as low as 0w-50.

 

It's supposed to rain this weekend, so I can get an oil change in.

 

I'm thinking there aren't many k series engine people stateside?

[Croc]

1 hour ago, slowdude said:

 thinking there aren't many k series engine people stateside?

 

Calling @yellowss7    What oil do you use in your Rover K series?

[MV8]

Found the oil spec in a '95 Cat manual to be 5w/50 for a Rover K.

[slowdude]

Going out to flush with a 5w-40 in a bit, then change to a 5w-50 with new filter (2x). Maybe this Will help out. Paperwork says oil was changed last year.

 

Reached out to Phil in Clifton to see if he'd take a look at the tappets + new timing belt. I saw he just went through an S1 Elise with a rover K series, so hoping he can get into the head and clean / replace the tappets, if needed / they don't quiet down.

 

Dave at DVA power recommended checking them out as well. Hunt goes on, thank you all for your input and help!

[slowdude]

@MV8

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/NBmsL-1Yoeg?feature=share

 

Video of it running.

 

Original oil out of it now:

 

[slowdude]

And oil in. 4.5 or so liters.

2.6L came out (filled out my OJ jug) hmmm.

[slowdude]

[slowdude]

It sounds slightly better as it warmed up. Oil pump? Is quieter too. I find the fact I took half out as much as I put in interesting as the dipstick had been showing it was sufficient.

 

 

Either way, I'll run it for a bit and do another flush and new filter.

Edited April 30, 2023 by slowdude

[MV8]

Sounds like a good plan.

I couldn't see the first vid on utube, but the last one sounds fine.

Monitor oil pressure with the current oil and after changing to the appropriate oil. If it starts falling off for what is normal for the rpm, change the filter again as soon as possible as it may be clogging and bypassing. I've gone through several filters when flushing an engine within a hundred miles before changing to regular oil, then two or three by the next oil change.

 

That is odd about the oil level check. I check oil after an engine has been off for 5 minutes or more, wipe the stick, reinsert, then pull and use the lowest mark indicated no matter which side of the stick it's on.

 

[slowdude]

28 minutes ago, MV8 said:

Sounds like a good plan.

I couldn't see the first vid on utube, but the last one sounds fine.

Monitor oil pressure with the current oil and after changing to the appropriate oil. If it starts falling off for what is normal for the rpm, change the filter again as soon as possible as it may be clogging and bypassing. I've gone through several filters when flushing an engine within a hundred miles before changing to regular oil, then two or three by the next oil change.

 

That is odd about the oil level check. I check oil after an engine has been off for 5 minutes or more, wipe the stick, reinsert, then pull and use the lowest mark indicated no matter which side of the stick it's on.

 

Hm not sure why the first one isn't working. I'm not great with this stuff.

 

That's reassuring the other video sounds healthy. I'll run it for a bit and then change oil and filter again.