slowdude

Porsche colors all have BASF paint codes - BASF just makes "specific" paints for each OEM. You can look at non-porsche codes and get the same color without the porsche tax. British cars should be green - since youre a fan of VAG, perhaps a Bentley color will suffice!

I'm surprised they didnt switch to the MZR, or partner with a small firm to contract xyz castings. Shame the K20 wasnt looked at, as I belive it is roughly the same height of the duratec? Conglomerate engines are rarely good (stellantis) - not sure using fluff business case capacity makes sense for a traditional silhouetted vehicle. VT holdings or outgoing CEO probably had ties to Nissan etc, which facilitated the Horse discussion. Sales over time will show, but the vehicle is no longer the same.

Don't be deterred, I think the K series has the most soul. You trade excitement and exhileration for dead on reliability? The car is meant to be over the top.

The engine itself is fine. I have a 175hp tune on the vehicle; built with high lift cams, ported heads (in between a VHPD and a standard head). Titanium pistons, titanium crank, new liners etc. Engine is setup for 230+ w/ ITB's and a tune*. Huge caveat on the tune side of things. These engines are great if they are dialed in before you get it. The network in the US is very small - parts have to come from the UK. Ecu tuning is DTA, emerald, or other european oriented ecu. I'm sure you could get a haltech or something, but it would require a good amount of work to build a map. Despite mine being off and on the road, when it runs, god is it something else. Its the lighest engine, revs very high (if setup right), my cams come on power after 6k, and push all the way up to 9500. The engine really is a race horse - they run so well, but if it breaks a leg, it can be catastrophic. Don't chase power etc, and you'll be fine. Don't be afraid to rev it.

She sounds great. Good tickover.

Will ping you on ig. I'd be down, depending on sleep levels.

There is a mod to completely bypass the MFRU. It may make more sense. I carry an extra MFRU from eliseparts in the car just in case. https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/267524-k-click-relay-mod-to-bypass-mfru/

Did you leave the knuckle magnet with the car or can I put it on my (questionably) running car?

Pm'd back. Send me a photo of your plug - I have a bunch and there are two temp sensors with different threads.

those look so cool. cant wait to see those on the track this year.

Further info. Car went out for a bit, was getting lean spikes when i accelerated. Went through and tweaked: Accel enrichment: Accel Max enrichment upped to 35% Clamp 50 Decay 22 Accel Rate Threshold Then, I was also getting some timing advances randomly when I would clutch in and coast -> Idle ignition control was set to 2100 RPM. Backed this down to 1350RPM, slightly above idle. Next break in the weather and I will go out and test the changes. I didn't push too far given the lean spikes.

I've seen the car in person. It's very well built / thought out and the attention to detail is imppecable. Seller is a great guy.

I actually may have an A127 equivalent - A127's are near impossible to find new. I have a 100 amp Powerlite 676 (right) side alternator. (RAC676) Alternator 100 Amp "Right Hand-Unit" - PowerLite Units one of these, but I wouldnt charge you near that price..

Overdue update, car is still misfiring on the K6 ECU. I sent it over to Emerald in April for them to review. Still waiting on a verdict. In the meantime, I snagged a used emerald K3. Ported over my map. Just got done confirming timing. I was able to get the car running, idle it is dead solid at a 12 degree advance (locked). When unlocked, and given gas, the timing mark moved to the right, it didn't jump. I'm hoping this ECU is the culprit, and will go test it this weekend. QED lightweight 1.4/1.6 Rover K series Emerald flywheel settings (in case anyone needs them): 36/4 EU2 Rover Flywheel drop down Reference: 125 degrees (124 or 126 had a slightly worse idle). This is based off the idle stop screw being set to a good idle on the previous K6 ECU. Will update later.

Josh is a good dude, always willing to help out.

Oatman was amazing. The whole time I was driving it, all I could think about was having a 7. I didn't miss the 7 for that stretch out into california - outside temp was close to 100 degrees. Did you run a half hood?

Hey Terry, I am going to have the 7 out this weekend, may go for a short drive with another 7. You're welcome to come by Saturday. I'll PM you my address.

I wish I had seen this earlier. I just got done with a 2.5 week chicago to LA route 66 trip. I am sad I didnt see you. I suppose any advice now is moot.

Good and bad news. Good news is the car is running on the new ecu and means it can be tuned / driven. Bad news is I'm travelling for work starting wednesday, and will be back around memorial day, if that can scratch your itch. happy to help you try the car out.

I'm doubled up in weddings this weekend. Next week M-W after work should be good, then traveling. I have an S3, so its the smallest you will sit in. Happy to let you try it on for size.

I'm in northern Morris county if you want to swing by for a sit while I tinker, let me know.

Tire pubes. Don't give @Croc any nickname ideas.

Was supposed to be for a k series, turns out it is a ford / lotus part: (RAC676) Alternator 100 Amp "Right Hand-Unit" - PowerLite Units

I had no idea this place existed. I may be taking my 7 there. It is relatively close.

Hi All, Alternator was purchased, not needed (my car has a different plug and setup). They do not accept returns as it was a special order. Link below: RAC676 Alternator Assembly, with Internal Fan