Any Ford crossflow experts out there???

[locost7018]

My 7 has a Ford Xflow 771M motor. Basically the same as a 711M block. I'm trying to put a electric fuel pump in it and would like to have an oil pressure safety switch to act as a safety shutoff in case of an accident. Trouble is the block oil port is under the intake manifold and a real PITA to get to. On the opposite side of the block, towards the rear of the motor is a bolt in the block. Could I put the oil pressure switch in that port? Russ
 

[locost7018]

[7Westfield]

Russ

That plug toward the rear is the water drain.......

However, about an inch below it there is a rounded bulge that runs the length of the block. That's the main oil gallery. At the front end, facing forward, there is a 1/4 NPT plug you can use. It's actually where a lot of formula fords put the oil feed.

 

[7Westfield]

don't know what the lower plug is, but the round bulge between them is the main feed along that side

lost your number, call me if you still have mine 

Charlie Schmidt

 

[7Westfield]

[locost7018]

Thanks to Charlie I got my questions answered. Thanks again Charlie. Russ

[Vinman1]

Charlie, Russ,

 

Good info there, I did not know that plug was there on mine.

 

V

[MV8]

A fuel primer would be nice to have and could serve as an alternate to the oil pressure switch if it failed. Just a small momentary button you can reach around or under the instrument panel, zip tied to something. "Normally open (N.O.)/push to close connection like a horn button.

An inertia switch would work similarly to the oil pressure switch only sooner and without adding anything under the bonnet. A standard part on most '90s fords and lincolns and located in the trunk. It's just a steel ball perched on a magnet bridging the electrical contacts until it gets bumped. It has a reset button to reposition the ball. The mounting orientation is important.

[IamScotticus]

There's nothing wrong with the standard Ford cam actuated, its self regulated.  

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=31616

 

Like MV8 said, use a primer like this one,

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=82

My car even ran on this electric unit.  But Im considering running the mechanical because its quiet compared to the electric.  I will keep the electric in line as a primer.

Edited March 16, 2023 by IamScotticus

[jbcollier]

I used to wire mine up with oil pressure controls, cranking bypass and an override but that is just too complicated.  Use an inertia/roll-over switch in the circuit and that's all you'll need.  Simple, it works, and it primes without any shenanigans.

Edited March 16, 2023 by jbcollier

[MV8]

Here is a cutaway pic of a typical ford inertia switch. They can be found used at most any junkyard, amazon, or ebay for around $15 with the connector and some wiring to splice. They last forever since the only time they cycle is from an accident and they are in the most protected area of the vehicle so no corrosion.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175646298603?epid=679741233&hash=item28e555d1eb:g:~sMAAOSwDD5kC9r4&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwGQmYh93fn28fJQbVOzvEZtIOaLo26243sODqHUzTex%2FeNPAIDW53TEfYxcu71%2B3nWxnYGi%2Fvu51FOCLHErUxCih1AwRs%2FtoV7%2BUxoYbZxADX%2BLs2kLo%2BZn7WrykS%2B7JrrdhrGvdS2EHre5wV1CPN17Fs918A81NCTxsuz%2F8yiQ6eskoUCSLlZKZgh4eji1JyTTscEjX3CvlfXhEAHaKBtU7I0KNiP3kJFaiKTeWMjuZf5DYE73hvZLNPD6o%2B5zpTw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6j_6Z3dYQ

 

The carter P90091 (previously P60504) is ideal for a quiet, reliable, inline pump with pressure compatible with webers. I use this fuel pump for all carb applications.

Unfortunately, carter no longer lists actual specs on their pumps but here is the application list and you could always call Carter Tech Support: (888) 565-9632 for rated psi, gph. If memory serves, 2.5psi, 30gph. Plenty for carbs that have a bowl/accumulator to draw from with intermittent WOT versus fuel injectors which are more critical of gph when the regulator closes under WOT pressure drop in the fuel rail.

 

Some of the more relevant applications for P90091/P60504:

1969-1971 Rover 3500S (In-Line); 1968-1973 Triumph GT6 (In-Line); 1971-1973 Triumph Stag (In-Line); 1968 Triumph TR250 (In-Line); 1960-1961 Triumph TR3A (In-Line); 1962 Triumph TR3B (In-Line); 1962-1964 Triumph TR4 (In-Line); 1965-1967 Triumph TR4A (In-Line); 1963-1980 Triumph Spitfire (In-Line); 1969-1976 Triumph TR6 (In-Line); 1975-1980 Triumph TR7 (In-Line); 1980 Triumph TR8 (In-Line); 1961-1974 Jaguar XKE (In-Line); 1973-1974 Jaguar XJ12 (In-Line); 1972-1978 Jaguar XJ6 (In-Line); 1965-1971 Porsche 911 (In-Line); 1965-1967 Porsche 912 (In-Line); 1970-1971 Porsche 914 (In-Line); 1971-1974 Opel 1900 (In-Line); 1973-1974 Opel Manta (In-Line); 1969-1973 Opel Opel (In-Line); 1968-1972 Opel Kadett (In-Line); 1968-1970 Opel Rallye (In-Line); 1977-1984 Renault LeCar (In-Line); 1972-1977 Renault R12 (In-Line); 1972-1976 Renault R15 (In-Line); 1974-1977 Renault R17 (In-Line); 1976 Renault R5 (In-Line); 1968-1971 Renault R10 (In-Line); 1969-1972 Renault R16 (In-Line); 1962-1968 Volvo 122 (In-Line); 1968-1971 Volvo 142 (In-Line); 1967-1971 Volvo 144 (In-Line); 1968-1971 Volvo 145 (In-Line); 1969-1971 Volvo 164 (In-Line); 1974-1978 Peugeot 504 (In-Line); 1981 Peugeot 604 (In-Line); 1966-1976 BMW 2002 (In-Line); 1966-1968 BMW 1600ti (In-Line); 1971 BMW 1802 (In-Line); 1971 BMW 2.8 Bavaria (In-Line);...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p90091#overview

https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p90091

[jbcollier]

+1

 

Use a pump that is correctly rated rather than a higher psi pump and a pressure regulator.  I have seen too many failed pressure regulators, especially ones for low psi applications like Webers.  Here's another option:

 

https://bpnorthwest.com/mg/mgb/fuel-system/fuel-pump-and-fittings/fuel-pump-electronic-dual-polarity-banjo-mgb-65-to-80.html

 

It's a German made replacement for an SU pump.  We installed LOTS and nary a problem.

 

[IamScotticus]

Good stuff

[MV8]

I've also seen a solid state kit to replace the points when rebuilding the original electric mg pumps.

[jbcollier]

Yes, and SU/Burlen sell new electronic SU pumps as well.  I haven't found them to be as reliable as this German made pump, though.

[7Westfield]

Facet pumps

large variety of pressure ranges

American made

[MV8]

Low pressure gerotor pumps are very quiet and just spin but are sensitive to contamination and must have a pre filter right before the pump (included with the carter). Box/solenoid pumps like facet and the mg/su are noisier and vibrate from the oscillation but that varies. Just another consideration. The mg/su is more  period correct. I've had a few facets that eventually failed but never a carter gerotor. Just be sure the box pump is ethanol blend compatible for todays fuels.

Edited March 17, 2023 by MV8

[IamScotticus]

ethanol,

wouldn't an additive like stabil or enzyte take care of that and be better for the carbs?

 

yes, the Facet box pumps are noisy and mounted to the back seat panel you feel it in your back.  nut they can be drawn through in line with another pump.

Edited March 17, 2023 by IamScotticus

[jbcollier]

Additives are to prevent ethanol from phase separating.  They won’t stop ethanol’s other detrimental effects on rubber and some metals.

[IamScotticus]

an excellent guide on the kents  is Jake Lamonts book available at Pegasus

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1639

anyone with a Xflow should have it.