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Gear shifter biased to 5th gear


robinhoodmotors

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Hi all,

I’m the very happy new owner of a ‘93 Caterham. Yesterday I managed to get it registered and went for my first decent drive and had a blast. However, the selecting 3rd and 4th is very challenging because the cross gate is biased to 5th when in neutral.

 

I believe the issue will be the tail housing pin is not aligned with the selector shaft spring, requiring the tail housing to be slid back a little to align correctly. My question is, can this be done in-situ? Or do I need to pull the engine/gearbox? 
 

Thanks for any pointers!

 

David

A409AB6A-8933-4661-99E3-7B6FFB4990C3.jpeg

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Thanks! It’s a real hoot to drive, and although I am getting better at finding 3rd and 4th, sometimes when you need that quick change it ends up in 5th, which can be embarrassing.

 

It’s the 2.0 Vauxhall engine with Ford T9 5 speed. I’m pretty sure it’s a question of the bias spring and tail housing pin being out of alignment but I’d really rather not pull the engine so soon in my ownership. If I can slide the tail housing back just enough (1/2” or so) I think I can  do in-situ. It may be difficult to re-seal though, depending on how the gasket/sealant was previously applied. 

 

Here’s a picture is the shifter all the way to the right while in neutral. 

IMG_1384.jpeg

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I'd pull the shifter and inspect the pocket. The saddle bushings don't last and are cheap to replace. Should help align your shifter and bring some precision back. I'd be surprised if Burton Power did not offer these.

Ford D9BZ7K453B

 

These fit many ford transmissions

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shifter-saddle-seat-bushing-damper-1-5-for-Ford-SROD-Mustang-F100-F150-T170-RUG-/361424507749?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0

 

Some excellent info on these bushings with more sources, designs, and materials:

https://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?170953-Shifter-bushing

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The tail housing would be difficult to remove while in the car. I would try MV8s suggestion first. 
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Welcome to the Vauxhall engined Seven group.

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Taking the engine out is a rite of passage.  The clutch will eventually need service.  

The next best thing would be almost removing the whole engine, with disconnecting prop shaft, cooling, speedo and anything necessary, unbolt mounts and remove rear mount, lift engine with a crane just off the mounts, rsaise the rear of the car up until you can access the tail housing. 

Nope.

Just pull it out.

Remember to catch oil that will pour out the tail.

This is a good opportunity to refresh and check many things early in your ownership.

Believe it ir not,  the transmission seals and clutch could have a much shorter life in a 1200 lb whip than a full size sled.  Clutch wear, flywheel surface, transmission input and output sals, rear engine seals, mounts.  All these can be refreshed and balanced ensuring you have a nice long ride.

Welcome to Sevening!

You are now chief engineer and pit crew for  a race car!

Edited by IamScotticus
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I expect I’ll be yanking the engine at some point, but with this weather I don’t want to do that just yet…. It has a lightened flywheel and a 4 puck clutch, which are great for speed but I’m probably going to kill the clutch with my driving in stop and go. 
 

I managed to get a picture of the saddle bushing but to be honest I’m not sure what I’m looking at. The selector shaft is definitely biased towards 5th gear, but I would expect it to be in the 3-4 position in neutral?


Do you guys see anything off in my pic?

IMG_1389.jpeg

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16 minutes ago, IamScotticus said:

I see a lot of grime :classic_ohmy:

Its amazing what a cleaning and fresh grease can do.

Absolutely. I’ll give it a good clean and re-grease. My concern is that it’s sprung to the 5th gear position. If I compare with every other picture that I see of that area online, mine is way off. I believe the bushing should be at 6 o’clock, relative to the selector shaft, but mine is at 8 o’clock. 

 

Here are a couple for comparison:

 

IMG_1392.jpeg

IMG_1391.jpeg

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It should be free to rotate the shaft in the gate.

If it is stuck like you say, then it should be pulled. It may or may not be doing damage each time you drive it.

 

Edited by MV8
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It sounds as if the centralizing spring isn't straddling the centralising pin in the tail shaft housing. Either the pin has fallen out or the spring is broken. We have to remember that these T-9s are on average 50 years old. The saddle, even if worn or damaged,  would have little to do with the position bias. The bad news is that you need to remove the transmission to access this. The good news is that it's pretty easy to remove the tail shaft without having to get into the main section of the gearbox. Now would also be the time to drill and tap for a drain plug (also pretty easy as the tail shaft section is aluminum). You will need a new gasket when putting it back together. Try Chris Clanger at BGH Geartech in England. He knows these boxes inside out. and a great source for parts. If the saddle is damaged, Chris said to replace it with another plastic one. The brass one isn't worth the trouble. PM if you have any questions.

 

My gearbox is a late model "N" from a V-6 Scorpio. Yours may vary a bit depending on the model.

 

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IMG_1160.jpeg

IMG_1158.jpeg

Edited by papak
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Thanks for your feedback. I figured the spring needs realigning with the pin after watching a fella on YouTube put one together demonstrating how easy it is to get it wrong. 
 

I just ordered gaskets and seals from Burton, I wish I’d known about a U.S. source instead, but I’ll know for next time.

 

It looks like you put your drain in the sandwich plate, which makes sense from a work-holding standpoint. I’ll do the same - I have access to a mill. 
 

The car is still very new to me and my shifting technique is improving so I’ll probably stall on this job for a couple of weeks, but I can’t wait to experience normal shifting in this little rocket!

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