123 Bluetooth distributor headaches!

[44 AND COUNTING]

 I'm having a world of issues with the installation of this unit. I have lots of practical experience (55 years...) and a machine shop, but I'm obviously missing something here. 
 

New 8mm silicone wires, correct firing order, timing light, strong spark. Everything done according to the manual. It's not 180 degrees out. I never got the green LED on installation, BTW.

 

1600 crossflow, twin 40 DCOEs, FF head and valves. Ran well before I swapped distributors.

 

Now it just randomly backfires. Repositioned wires in cap. At TDC the rotor is at 1:00 pm.

 

Tried twisting the distributor back and forth a few degrees each way at a time; just random backfiring.

 

Old distributor had centrifugal advance only. This one seems to have a brass fitting which could be a vac port? Should this be blocked?

 

Completely puzzled right now. Factory website is no help...

[inchoate]

I'm running a 123 on my 1700 BDR and I'm quite happy with it.  When you say you never got the green LED on installation what do you mean?  That might be the issue.  Also, have you called 123?  I've used their ignitions on two cars and they've been super helpful whenever I've reached out to them, that said I've been dealing with the US distributer. 

 

What ignition curve do you have loaded?

 

The brass port is for vacuum advance.  I have a cap on mine but it's not necessary, you can just leave it.

[44 AND COUNTING]

This may be my sticking point--the ignition curve! How do I load it? I thought the engine has to be running in order to load the curve?

 

Yes, I've got the app loaded on my iPhone 11 with its latest software.

 

Sounds like this could be my hangup?

 

Thanks very much gor your reply! 

[44 AND COUNTING]

In the installation manual, they instruct you to rotate the didtributor body until a green LED shows through one of the slots on the rotor plate. This never happened no matter what I did, so I proceeded with the installation without this step.

[MV8]

Don't make any software changes just yet. Go back to where the instructions could not be followed (no light).

Static timing will be different than the centrifugal advance dizzy. Aftermarket electronic timing systems typically set the static timing to fully advanced/max timing, then electronically reduce advance for starting and low rpm operation.

Rotate the dizzy until you get the light. If you run out of room, start again using a different cap plug position for #1 tdc that will allow you to rotate the dizzy more in the right direction to find the light.

 

[44 AND COUNTING]

This greenbLED thing seems to be the key to static timing pre-loading any software.

 

If so, I will begin again from the very beginning...Thanks!

[MV8]

I expect the static timing will be about 34 degrees advanced with #1 at tdc versus about 12 degrees for a mechanical dizzy, but I don't know with this product. Let us know how it works out.

[JohnCh]

It's been over 4 years since installing one in the Elan, so my memory is foggy, but 123 was responsive to email when I had an issue with one of my iOS devices connecting to the software.  You do need to trigger the LED as this confirms the distributor is at the expected location for the map advance to be correct.  Two installation steps to check when doing this:

• The black ground wire that goes to the coil should not be connected when rotating the distributor to trigger the LED.  That attaches afterwards.
• Make sure you are rotating the distributor in the right direction.  You need to approach it from the opposite direction that the rotor spins.  I seem to recall I had this backwards on my initial attempt and had trouble triggering the LED.

-John 

[inchoate]

Set the engine to TDC and then install the distributor.  Your "static" timing gets done through the ignition curve.  It's well worth reading the installation instructions and the user manual, lots of good stuff in there.

[jbcollier]

I have installed a few of the 123ignition distributors.  Absolutely wonderful product, well made, easy to work with -- bluetooth model, the laptop programmed ones are a bit more of a fiddle -- and dead reliable.  The only issue I ever had was a missed programming step because I went from memory rather than reading the instructions (oh, the shame).

 

First and foremost, the green light has to come on.  However, on the Bluetooth versions, the green light shines through a clear cover the side of the distributor, right next to the incoming wires:

 

 

The static timing is set by setting the engine to the #1 timing mark and then rotating the distributor body against the direction of distributor rotation until the green light JUST illuminates.  I always make sure I'm on #1 firing TDC by removing the plugs and sticking my finger on #1 spark plug while slowly rotating the engine.  You'll feel air pressure when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke.  Also remember that some engines are 1342 (almost all) and others 1243 (some Fords).

 

Then unit is wired:

red to coil positive (ignition feed)

black to coil negative

blue to ground  (I usually ground it to the distributor body itself)

 

Just leave the vacuum port open if you don't have, or want, vacuum advance.

 

To program, just turn the ignition on, turn on bluetooth on your phone, and use the standard 1234 password to sync.  Set the curve as you like and remember to SAVE the file when you are finished programming (I forgot this and the unit kept reverting to the base map).

 

Now start it up and double check your timing at idle.

 

[NSXguy]

if you're getting back fires, you probably have it 180 deg off or something. set the engine at TDC Cyl 1. when you have it right, the wires will be coming out of the dizzy at the 12 o'clock (roughly) mark. rotate the unit Clock wise* until the green light just comes on. also make sure you have your plug wires on correctly. the rotor should be right around the 10 o'clock mark at tdc cyl 1 as well- this is if you're looking down at the dizzy. then cyl 2 is at roughly 7 oclock, cyl 4 roughly 5 o'clock, cyl 3 roughly 2 o'clock.  so you ensure when you install the dizzy at tdc that's where the rotor should be pointing and once you see the green light just light up you should be good to go.  Set your timing to something like 10 deg at 1000 rpm and it should start. i have no timing figures below 1000 rpm to help with quick start. 

-Dez. 
 

 

Edit- goes without saying,  once you get it fired up and warmed up checkthe timing. Confirm via timing light that the value in the app matches what is on the crank pulley 

Edited September 24, 2023 by NSXguy

[MV8]

To find the position the rotor must point to on the distributor body for the light to come on, you can remove the distributor, ground the distributor body to the chassis or block (as it would be installed. Jumper cables work), turn the key on, then rotate the shaft until you see the light and mark the body.

If the light does not come on in any position, the problem is elsewhere.

[44 AND COUNTING]

I would like to offer my sincerest thanks to everyone who replied to my query with their helpful himts and experiences!

 

The crux of the matter could be captured in one four letter acronym:

 

RTFM

 

...which I did, but skimmed over some vital information. Suffice to say that once I realized that the green LED was the key to the entire setup, it was a twenty-minute task to get things set up once I got that LED to light up.

 

Now it's down to the fun of fine-tuning the timing and getting those 40DCOEs to work well with the new electronics, tying the wiring back, and heading for some open Italian lanes.

 

This thing is simply amazing!

[IamScotticus]

Were you on the exhaust TDC?

 

I have an Aldon Igniter but considering something newer.

Edited September 25, 2023 by IamScotticus

[44 AND COUNTING]

I would like to offer my sincerest thanks to everyone who replied to my query with their helpful himts and experiences!

 

The crux of the matter could be captured in one four letter acronym:

 

RTFM

 

...which I did, but skimmed over some vital information. Suffice to say that once I realized that the green LED was the key to the entire setup, it was a twenty-minute task to get things set up once I got that LED to light up.

 

Now it's down to the fun of fine-tuning the timing and getting those 40DCOEs to work well with the new electronics, tying the wiring back, and heading for some open Italian lanes.

 

This thing is simply amazing!

[44 AND COUNTING]

Everything was set up correctly except I was not getting the green LED. Once I turned the ignition on and rotated the distributor until I got the LED, I had it running in five minutes. 
 

In other words, there was no power  to the distributor to tell the LED when to light up,

[inchoate]

glad you got it sorted out.  I'm a big fan of the 123 ignition and I was surprised that you were having issues.

[44 AND COUNTING]

Just a status update on this install...

 

The Westfield with the stock coil, newly-rebuilt FF head, tweaked 40DCOEs, and old silicone wires (off-brand; came with the car) was a pussycat, I realized. It ran fine, was quick enough to satisfy my street driving needs, and was altogether agreeable with no bad habits but one annoying "feature":

 

At idle (about 900 rpm), it had a "chirp" or "wheeze" that sounded like an old air-cooled VW with a bad valve. I've had tons of experience with these old VWs, and this was irritating.

 

Pulled out the compression gauge and found a warped head. Not bad enough to leak except between cylinder pairs 1-2 and 3-4, hence the teplacement with the blueprinted FF replacement head. 
 

Still a bit of an odd exhaust note, but slight improvement in power.

 

So, here the saga of the bluetooth 123 began, as described above.

 

Now everything is happily bedded in and dialed up and having the Iphone app is a gas!

 

It's running new 8mm silicone wires and a new set of Champion FF plugs.

 

Followed directions to a T and it fired right up. Did a tiny bit of conservative tweaking to the centrifugal advance curve (no vac on this one) and have been taking it out for brief spins of 5-10 miles.

 

The car is transformed. It fires right up, no misses or flat spots, and runs right up to 6K rpm as quickly as I can nail the pedal! It really accelerates like never before.

 

There is no more "kitty wheeze" at idle. Indeed, the exhaust sound on acceleration--fairly reasonable in the past--is now a loud ROAR. Note that I have done nothing to the intake except carb dialing-in, and the exhaust tract remains as before the install. 
 

I suppose I should chalk this ROAR up to more efficient combustion due to the 123, but it's new to my experience.

 

Does anyone else share this issue? 

 

 

[inchoate]

Putting a 123 in my '67 Cooper S was absolutely transformative.  Much better drivability and top end.

 

I'm still working out the kinks on my 7 but it's headed in the right direction.

 

I'm a firm believer in their products and the guy who used to work on my Mini now recommends them to all of his customers after seeing the change it made in my car.