slowdude Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Hey All, In the greater scheme of trying to get a few things to work with the positive terminal on the battery, I've got some interesting connections going on. On the positive terminal, I've currently got: 2x starter 1x master cutoff 1x trickle charger lead Given my air fuel ratio issues, I need to wire a 12v positive for the wideband controller. I also just grabbed an OBD interface for my ecu, also which requires power. I'll be running an AEM adjustable OBD gauge to see AFR, Water temp, revs, whatever. I have a larger horn which also requires power (current air horn is not cutting it for daily). I'd also like to revisit my cigarette lighter charger as it is temperamental. I'd also look into doing some sort of RaceBox or data logger as well, so an open extra positive terminal or two. I would roughly need potentially 4 smaller gauge power leads coming off my positive battery terminal. Given how I have some chunky wires on there now, I'm worried I'd have a positive terminal which is 2 inches long of various accessories running off the battery at all times (I use the master cutoff to maintain battery and for safety). I was wondering if anyone here has experience with running a buss bar? I'd mount positive and negative to the bulkhead for these additional adds, along with relays, and probably an inline switch & relay for power for the buss bar? Does that make sense or is there a better way to isolate the buss bars? I'm new to electronics (biggest thing so far has been learning to use multimeter to test coil resistance and various sensors), and I've rewired my indicators, along with adding lights to my mechanical oil pressure gauge. Very basic stuff. Is there a better approach than I have researched? Are other people just running everything off their battery and letting the voltage draw be constant? I see some other people are discussing wiring in accessories, so it would make sense, I'll try and document what I do based on advice of more experienced out there. Appreciate all of your guidance, i couldn't find much out there about this on blatchat etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBuff Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 I have been taking a deep dive into all this over the last year. I plan on eventually installing a msd solid state switch with addt fusing for a variety of things. but you can scale it up or down pretty easy. You can run a power lead to the master cut off so it will be cut off with mco. Also keeps the battery from having too many leads coming off of it. Make sure you fuse appropriately. if your not in a hurry we can run thru options when we meet up again. I also have a giant box of wiring , fuses, switches etc you can raid. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Westfield Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Why not run a heavy lead to a new fuse panel, with 4-6 circuits? 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 (edited) Ditto. A mini fuse block is a buss bar. Grounds at the accessory can be eyelets on the hardware attachment to the chassis. The chassis is also a buss bar, but for ground. You can also add a 1/4 inch bolt through the chassis as a ground stud for 4 or so eyelets for grounding. There are also insulated studs available for positive distribution. Edited September 13 by MV8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowdude Posted September 15 Author Share Posted September 15 @CBuff and I are being nerds. Got a mini fuse block. Will report back when its ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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