Rashid_seyadi Posted December 13, 2024 Author Share Posted December 13, 2024 35 minutes ago, MV8 said: The abs ring doesn't touch anything. You could remove it's but not worth the hassle to pull the hub. I guess you are referring to a hydraulic parking brake which isn't needed when you could do the same with a line lock spliced into the rear brake line from the master cylinder. I expect the initial difficulty rolling after sitting for years was from rust on the rotors and sticking calipers. I agree, i also thought the diff was broken after inspection everything looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 14, 2024 Share Posted December 14, 2024 19 hours ago, wdb said: I like the ABS ring explanation. Do some tape measuring, maybe run a string front-to-rear, and see if the face of the hub is the same relative to the rest of the car. If so, it's meant to be the way it is. I think that was an ABS ring in its former production car life but ABS rings (or reluctor rings) are needed on each wheel for ABS to work properly as they provide the sensor input to whether individual wheels are locking up or not so that the ABS system can modulate. They also work the same way in reverse for traction control. At least thats how the Bosch ABS system works which is in common usage and is available for aftermarket fitment. Given it is only on one wheel, that makes me think it was repurposed for the Ultralite to be a speed sensor ring. How does the speedo in the Ultralite get its speed pulses to measure speed on the gauge? Did it originally have a Hall effect sensor mounted next to it same as Caterham do it? Either way, if you are not using it then as MV8 notes above it should not cause any concerns provided the hub measurements are equal both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted December 14, 2024 Share Posted December 14, 2024 The speed sensor for mine is located on the axle right next to the diff. This isn't really used anymore because I use GPS for speed. But it swapped right over from the WRX to the STI parts when I did the change Btw those WRX rear parking brakes are actually drums. The rotor has a friction surface on the inside. Pretty interesting. I don't think the drum mechanism was still in tact in this case 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 15, 2024 Author Share Posted December 15, 2024 16 hours ago, Croc said: I think that was an ABS ring in its former production car life but ABS rings (or reluctor rings) are needed on each wheel for ABS to work properly as they provide the sensor input to whether individual wheels are locking up or not so that the ABS system can modulate. They also work the same way in reverse for traction control. At least thats how the Bosch ABS system works which is in common usage and is available for aftermarket fitment. Given it is only on one wheel, that makes me think it was repurposed for the Ultralite to be a speed sensor ring. How does the speedo in the Ultralite get its speed pulses to measure speed on the gauge? Did it originally have a Hall effect sensor mounted next to it same as Caterham do it? Either way, if you are not using it then as MV8 notes above it should not cause any concerns provided the hub measurements are equal both sides. Honestly i have no idea how the speed is measured i didnt see any wired in the rear shafts neither the ring could be on the front or maybe the gearbox. My plan is to install a haltech ecu with dashscreen so ill rely on gps speed and wont need any of the current gauges installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 18, 2024 Author Share Posted December 18, 2024 Received the new oil sump today from Toda. The fitment was on point 😊 engine is maintained and ready to get back in the car. Got the diff back after changing the seals and the bushings. Hopefully by the next few days ill have the engine and trans back into the car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 Engine mounting points have been changed as one of them was cracked. Decided to go with thicker stronger material. Engine, gearbox and axle are back and all wired up. Rear wheel bearing hubs are changed and installed back. fuel tank is also cleaned and installed back. New fuel lines installed. Ill add fluids to the engine, gearbox and diff today and hopefully start the engine. im facing an issue with the exhaust manifold as the engine mounts have changed a bit by just few millimetres now one of the tubes doesnt fit correctly ill have to maybe bend or maybe add spacers to the mounts to get it align. question about the gearbox mounts noticed that one side is flat and the other has bumps which side face the chassis? I just guessed it since i guess it wont make a difference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Those gearbox mounts are not something I have even inspected on my car. I will crawl under there and see if I can get some images of it.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted January 9 Author Share Posted January 9 Fluids in no leaks so far got the engine back running sounds good revs good. Next is getting the front hubs and brake lines bleeding. regarding the engine mounts i had to drill a new hole to make it fit without having anything else touching the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted Sunday at 07:59 AM Author Share Posted Sunday at 07:59 AM Got the car on the ground took it for a spin and she pulls like a train didnt expect this at all 😍 have some issues i need help with please. 1- where do you guys have tour coolant temp sensor located 2- whats the water circulation like and expansion tank located i think mine is just bad 3- the spring part of the thermostat faces the engine or have i installed it incorrectly as it never did open. 4- my diff makes weird sounds just when i try to move the car while having the steering turned fully to the left i would say when the diff is in high load. As soon as it moves sound disappears. If the steering is straight theres no sound. If the car is moving and then i turn left keeping up the speed it turns fine. Is this normal with the lsd or maybe the lsd is roasted. As my westfield has lsd different diff though and doesnt make this sound. cant really compare cars as the weight also is different the full platform is different to. sorry for the long explanation would appreciate your inputs thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted Sunday at 08:01 PM Share Posted Sunday at 08:01 PM That is very exciting to hear. My first impression was the same. It still has not gotten old for me, and that same accel is just an awesome feeling after haven driven it for a while. Congratulations on getting it running again after having gone through it to make sure its in good working order. I will do my best to answer your Q's. 1. Water sensor is the stock s2000 setup. This is an old picture and not a great angle of it, but the sensor is underneath an OEM rubber boot at the back of the engine 2. Mine is a custom made metal can it looks like. It just has a hose coming off of the radiator cap that goes into the bottom of the can. This looks like something that could be improved on my car.... This is another image from when I first took possession of the car... you will see the silver can that I'm talking about. 3. Please let me know if you are unable to verify the installation of your tstat by looking through the S2000 documentation. I can take a look at my car - in fact I probably should do that considering that the tstat has not been inspected by me yet... 4. Do you have an aftermarket LSD center or is a viscous coupling LSD WRX differential? Either case, it might be due to missing shims between the bearing retainers. If there isn't enough spacing, then it could cause the gears to engage too deeply etc. The shims are located underneath this part which is the "rear diff bearing retainer" . My car uses 3 shims. That was true for the WRX and the STI diff that I swapped in. Note that I had once mistaken rear brake noise for diff noise. This was because I changed 10 things at the same time before going for a test drive (not recommended) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted yesterday at 06:41 AM Author Share Posted yesterday at 06:41 AM 10 hours ago, nc7s4 said: That is very exciting to hear. My first impression was the same. It still has not gotten old for me, and that same accel is just an awesome feeling after haven driven it for a while. Congratulations on getting it running again after having gone through it to make sure its in good working order. I will do my best to answer your Q's. 1. Water sensor is the stock s2000 setup. This is an old picture and not a great angle of it, but the sensor is underneath an OEM rubber boot at the back of the engine 2. Mine is a custom made metal can it looks like. It just has a hose coming off of the radiator cap that goes into the bottom of the can. This looks like something that could be improved on my car.... This is another image from when I first took possession of the car... you will see the silver can that I'm talking about. 3. Please let me know if you are unable to verify the installation of your tstat by looking through the S2000 documentation. I can take a look at my car - in fact I probably should do that considering that the tstat has not been inspected by me yet... 4. Do you have an aftermarket LSD center or is a viscous coupling LSD WRX differential? Either case, it might be due to missing shims between the bearing retainers. If there isn't enough spacing, then it could cause the gears to engage too deeply etc. The shims are located underneath this part which is the "rear diff bearing retainer" . My car uses 3 shims. That was true for the WRX and the STI diff that I swapped in. Note that I had once mistaken rear brake noise for diff noise. This was because I changed 10 things at the same time before going for a test drive (not recommended) Cant wait to drive it on track hopefully by next week's saturday event if i get it working 100% 1- yes thats the same location as mine what would be the operating temp? Online i saw that 200 is the idle temp but mine goes above and the thermostat is still closed 2- yup i do have the exact same waterline routing which i see is weird having the expansion tank below the the engine. Overflow coolant goes to the tank not sure how it goes back if needed. 3- should be correct 4- its stock didnt change the shims i do have 2 shims on each side. saw a video on youtube that replicates the exact same sound but its not that big i have it only when at the beginning on heavy load not all the time. Fast forward to 1:55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted yesterday at 07:04 AM Author Share Posted yesterday at 07:04 AM Update regarding the diff just spoke to the previous owner he says that the lsd has been upgraded and that the preload has been also adjusted thats the reason for the noise theres nothing to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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