GBS ZeroGT Gen 2 SVO

[JimSVO]

My GBS ZeroGT build is under way. I just got the first photos of my actual chassis before going to powdercoat.  I have had one modification to the basic chassis; I needed extra clearance on the RH side of the engine bay to clear the turbo package on my SVO 2.3l engine.  When I met Richard Hall of GBS last month at Sonoma, CA, and we discussed my goal of fitting this engine combo and we arrived at the solution of creating a "dogbone" diagonal strut as part of the top chassis tube on the exhaust side of my engine.  I've also mocked-up the location of the chassis tubes around my engine as it sits on the stand.   Hopefully I can keep my metric and SAE measurements correct!

 

Yesterday I drove down to Oregon to pick up the build trolly so that I can keep the chassis at a comfortable height and roll it around in my garage while I build it up. As I was driving down the Hood Canal on US 101, which is a particularly beautiful drive, I was dreaming about driving it in my new 7.   

 

 

[JohnCh]

Looking forward to seeing the progress!  Do you have an idea of when the kit will leave the UK?  BTW EVO recently did short review of the GBS.  It sounds like a lot of car for the money.  https://www.evo.co.uk/track-cars/207390/gbs-zero-review-a-convincing-caterham-alternative

[JimSVO]

Not sure yet about delivery but I will be getting another update soon. Thanks for the link!

[JimSVO]

I took delivery on 12 Dec 2025 in Auburn, WA. Now that I have it home in my shop I began a blog to keep track of my progress at https://jimssvozero.blogspot.com/  I am currently working out the details of the engine and transmission fit. It's all going to fit except the distributor, which has an interference with the diagonal frame brace. I am looking at distributorless solutions for the turbo Ford engine. I hope you check out my blog!

 

Edited January 24 by JimSVO

[NSXguy]

interesting choice to go with a Lima on this build. Thankfully there's still a decent amount of aftermarket support for the platform. What are you using for engine management. If going stand alone engine management, then you could do away with the dizzy all together and run wasted spark. 

[MV8]

I suggest milling the front groove off the crank pulley, moving the engine forward for distributor, lower intake, and bellhousing starter bulge clearance the way it is in a seven and a remote shifter. Raise the engine 1/2 inch. This can limit your mods to a widened, shallow oil pan level with the bottom of the bell and a shortened pickup (good time to add baffles), and the upper intake to reroute. If you limit the boost to 7psi or less, the fit will be easier/cleaner and less weight without the intercooler, which has little to no benefit at that boost level. Run the TB to turbo intermediate pipe around the back of the head.

Edited January 25 by MV8

[JimSVO]

12 hours ago, NSXguy said:

interesting choice to go with a Lima on this build. Thankfully there's still a decent amount of aftermarket support for the platform. What are you using for engine management. If going stand alone engine management, then you could do away with the dizzy all together and run wasted spark. 

The Lima is a personal choice. I owned a 1984 SVO Mustang that I bought new. I would still have that car but it was totaled in a T-bone accident. I kept the engine and drivetrain. I'm leaning towards a PimpXs and running sequential. I could run a stub or cam synchronizer, I'm still considering options. 

54 minutes ago, MV8 said:

I suggest milling the front groove off the crank pulley, moving the engine forward for distributor, lower intake, and bellhousing starter bulge clearance the way it is in a seven and a remote shifter. Raise the engine 1/2 inch. This can limit your mods to a widened, shallow oil pan level with the bottom of the bell and a shortened pickup (good time to add baffles), and the upper intake to reroute. If you limit the boost to 7psi or less, the fit will be easier/cleaner and less weight without the intercooler, which has little to no benefit at that boost level. Run the TB to turbo intermediate pipe around the back of the head.

I am actually working on a two-groove pulley and finalizing the engine position after that. I will have to run a shallow pan regardless. Are you familiar with a Kevco pan? I probably won't run an I/C initially and I do plan to route around the back of the engine. I think we are on the same wavelength there. There's a nice space there between the bonnet and the scuttle to run a nice scoop for an I/C. Scoop would be offset from centerline kinda like the original SVO.

 

Thanks for the input, guys!

[MV8]

I took a look at kevko but don't see a pan that would work as-is. They may make a shallow one for you based on their F803 wet sump flat bottom design and increase the kick outs for more capacity. You can also bring the capacity back up using a remote 2 quart filter base for gm applications.

 

https://kevkoracing.com/collections/ford-2300/products/part-f803-ford-2300-flat-bottom-pan

 

I understand why you would not want to, but I'd weld in a new crossmember in front of the existing one. After fully welding into position (only the angle iron need be trimmed to fit the new xmember), the original center section between the angle iron can be cut out and the opening filled. It would be stronger than original and provide another couple inches of pulley clearance.

Edited January 25 by MV8

[JimSVO]

36 minutes ago, MV8 said:

I took a look at kevko but don't see a pan that would work as-is. They may make a shallow one for you based on their F803 wet sump flat bottom design and increase the kick outs for more capacity. You can also bring the capacity back up using a remote 2 quart filter base for gm applications.

 

https://kevkoracing.com/collections/ford-2300/products/part-f803-ford-2300-flat-bottom-pan

 

I understand why you would not want to, but I'd weld in a new crossmember in front of the existing one. After fully welding into position (only the angle iron need be trimmed to fit the new xmember), the original center section between the angle iron can be cut out and the opening filled. It would be stronger than original and provide another couple inches of pulley clearance.

Interesting suggestion about the front crossmember. I could also just put a kink in the diagonal rail to get it out of the way of the dizzy. I'm betting that the two-groove pulley will be enough to get everything where I want it. I'll find out later this week. Yes, that F803 is what I was looking at. Good idea about using a large capacity remote oil filter. I remember Accusump also. 

[ashyers]

JimSVO,

If you need any SVO/2.3T related items I have a few. I've had a SVO since '89 and have built a couple of 2.3L turbo motors over the years. They're fun motors and fun cars.

 

Andy

 

ps. Check out the later 2.5L engines for a distributorless option. I think they ran a pick up off the jackshaft.

Edited January 25 by ashyers

[JimSVO]

20 hours ago, ashyers said:

JimSVO,

If you need any SVO/2.3T related items I have a few. I've had a SVO since '89 and have built a couple of 2.3L turbo motors over the years. They're fun motors and fun cars.

 

Andy

 

ps. Check out the later 2.5L engines for a distributorless option. I think they ran a pick up off the jackshaft.

Thanks, Andy. I am looking for a TFI distributor, one of the later ones with the slip-on rotor, not the screw-down rotor. I would prefer to have a matching aux shaft and dist but I know that's asking a lot! - Jim

Edited January 26 by JimSVO