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Everything posted by ashyers

  1. In my experience they are used for balancing the throttles. I suspect yours were being used to try and pull a smooth vacuum signal, possibly for the FPR. I'd just cap them and map the car with no vacuum signal to the FPR. Where were they connected?
  2. Is it lacking spark or fuel?
  3. I'm unable to see any image you posted, but I'll take a guess at rear anti roll bar hardware. Andy
  4. Andy69, Racks will often stick if involved in a hit that deforms one of the teeth, then it's time to bin it. If you're planning on rebuilding the rack I'd mock it up with some light oil and check for sticking. If it passes make sure you have both the rack and pinion magnafluxed before final assembly. The results of a sheared tooth are never good. Another possibility is that the rack has adjustable pinion depth. It's possible that the pinion is not secured and the tooth engagement is changing when you're steering leading to binding/unbinding. May want to check that out.
  5. BlueBDA, If the lower most photos are your car, I'd say you have a narrow track since I don't see the hex shaped spacers on the Bilsteins. Andy
  6. Steve, The stock T9 doesn't have a drain plug...gulp! Did you add one? Andy
  7. Steve, The item in the 2nd photo looks like a VDO pressure sending unit. Is it connected to a braided line plumbed to the oil system? Andy
  8. It's cool to see Moroso, I used to go drag racing there when I was a kid! Those tires look like they would be fun to drive, not fast, but fun. The visual of the push with cycle fenders is pretty graphic! I have 16" HPC wheels on the car now that I need to keep the sump off the ground on local roads, so this limits tire choices to 205/45-16. I am thinking about some 888's to replace my aged Proxes R1R's. Andy
  9. John, The treadwear ratings track the speed ratings. Maybe the H rated tires use a different compound than the V rated ones??? Andy
  10. Dave, I'm trying your suggestions. Front Toe: 0deg Front Camber:-2deg RARB: Disconnected I'm not going to an AutoX until the 14th, but the difference is apparent on the street. 0 toe makes steering slightly vague on center, but frees things up a bit, and the feel is good. There were no issues with tramlining on the freeway. The lack of the RARB was apparent when zipping to work this morning and rounding a bumpy turn I take daily. Less skip, more grip. I'll have to check the tires after the AutoX and see how the camber has affected wear. I didn't go the full 2.5deg. I wanted to try
  11. Dave, Just edited the posts above. I put the car back on the pad yesterday and found out my notes were from one of our first iterations of toe changes. The setting is actually .04deg/side or .032" total in, so not far from what you're recommending. Andy
  12. Sander, This caught my eye "Change to a thinner oil so the car will reach operating temperature in daily driving." Do you know if the car has a thermostat? From your description of it's cold weather behavior is sounds like it doesn't. I'd suggest checking that out. Running the engine cold won't do it a bit of good. Beware of attempting to control engine temp with oil viscosity, that may get you into trouble! Andy
  13. Bruce Springsteen comes to mind...but the Cadillac Ranch is not as close as I thought. Is it the lights????
  14. "Merino wool! You can wear it for a week or a month and it never stinks!" I have to back Sander up on this, when he stopped by both Hilde and I remained conscious. If I knew then what I know now...:ack:
  15. Don't forget your preferred driving apparel! I'm particularly curious how you dealt with the long stretches in the desert areas without getting fried.
  16. Sander, Glad you have things sorted! You're making great time. Andy
  17. Sander, Hilde and I are happy you were able to drop by and enjoy dinner with us. It was a pleasure to meet you and the stories of your trip were great! Hope the remainder of your journey is trouble free and the only adventures you have are self induced! Drive safe and stay in touch. Andy
  18. Chrysler used a neat trick to set sensor gap, they applied a piece of paper to the end of the sensor and you installed it with the paper hitting one of the teeth and tightened the mounting hardware. This set the gap. Once the engine turned the paper was knocked off and you were good to go. Simple and accurate. Maybe this would help to set the spacing for your car????
  19. Check the harness for any damage and check the pins to the ECU. Hopefully the ECU is programmed correctly for the trigger set up. Do you have the ability to access it?
  20. SanderGA, I'm in Oakland, if you want to drop by on the way up to Sears Point for a bit of socially distanced grilling and a rest you're more than welcome. Andy
  21. Dave, HOLY CRAP is that a bunch of tire!!!!!! I agree that outside rear is working ! That's a great photo, pretty informative about the setup's behavior. Per your advice I think I'll try this: Front toe: 0 to a RCH in, just enough to keep it on the "in" side of 0 so it doesn't dither. Front camber: I'll play with camber. Per my notes it changes .25deg/turn so I'll measure toe before and after camber changes and then figure out how many flats I need to add/subtract get the toe sorted out. * Disconnect RARB (edit, forgot!) Alignments I have covered. I'm to picky/cheap
  22. Dave, I think johncg was having understeer issues. I've likely got driver issues! You and Croc's points about managing weight transfer on entry played out Sunday. I found I can brake much more aggressively and plant the nose of the car, it'll turn in. Lots of camber huh? How was braking and tramlining at 2.5deg? I drive the car quite a bit and have not run those settings so I'm curious. Next time I have it on the pad I'll have to record the # of turns to 1.5, 2, 2.25 and 2.5 so I can play at the autoX. Hopefully it won't foul up the toe too much. The total front toe works out
  23. Dave, Here's my notes from when we set it up: Front Toe: .18deg .17deg in (EDIT: .04deg in .04deg in, bad notes!?!?) Front Camber: -1.2deg Front Caster: 5.8deg 5.9deg Rear Thrust Angle: 0deg Rear Camber: -1.5deg Essentially just factory settings with a bit less toe and more measured caster. I say "measured" because we started with factory shims and then matched it side to side. I was not terribly worried about the reading as long as it was in the ballpark and matched. I played with the toe a bit since it was pretty goofy when I purchased the car and I wanted to find how
  24. Dave and Clarko, You guys going to provide me with support if I order a set? They should work in light rain, right ! https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=A7&partnum=045ZR6A7&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes Must work on justification/rationalization strategy... Clarko says they'll last a year... Want maximum grip for safety... It doesn't really rain in N. California any more... They'll be quieter... There's more rubber to distribute the wear... Those "five-dash circumferentially oriented grooves" are tread... Andy
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