Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted May 28 Posted May 28 Is there discussion in any known location of the pros and cons of converting an early Seven from positive to negative earth? I keep struggling with finding positive earth parts for my 1962 S2, and keep being tempted to try it. Could work, and could be a very expensive failure. Thoughts?
wdb Posted May 28 Posted May 28 I'm contemplating the same for a 1967 Lotus Elan. I've been told it's pretty straightforward. One tricky bit on that car is the tach, which is electronic and needs to be the correct ground. I would replace the generator altogether in my case. If originality is important they make alternators that look like generators.
7Westfield Posted May 28 Posted May 28 Been 50 years ago, but I switched my Bugeye over. Not too much hassle I used some japanese alternator, but it is possible to reverse the polarity of a generator Got a tach from a Fiat you can have them converted, but pricey don't recall if fuel gauge needed anything I THINK the wiper motor was ok switch coil wires around electric fuel pump? starter doesn't care if you have one of the Lucas "voltage stabilizers" for the gauges, a neg ground unit is cheap from Moss
Jbrueckh Posted May 28 Posted May 28 If you get a tach conversion kit from Spiyda in the UK, it’s easy to do. I did it this winter on my 67 Elan. I did it because I switched to all LED lighting and a Suzuki samari alternator. https://spiyda.com/tachometer-electronics.html 1
SENC Posted May 29 Posted May 29 The old se7ens.net mailserve is all but dead, but it is still out there and if you can join you can search old threads. That would likely be the best source of specific information. If you can't join and want, I can try to search for you.
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted May 29 Author Posted May 29 Thanks, SENC. I've found a few general guides, such as https://blog.simonbbc.com/classic-car-projects-and-tips/converting-a-vehicle-from-positive-earth-to-negative-earth-electronic-ignition/. I will try to learn to do searches on USA7s, because I should know how to answer some of my questions that way rather than asking knowledgeable members to repeat stuff they wrote years ago. If I fail, I hope you won't mind guiding me into it.
wdb Posted May 29 Posted May 29 Here's information for a Lotus Cortina conversion, may be helpful. https://www.lotus-cortina.com/electric/convert.htm 1
SENC Posted May 29 Posted May 29 TLK - here are a couple threads from the se7ens.net mailing list that popped up when I searched the archives... you may find something useful. So far I've kept mine positive earth, just haven't found any good reason to change it. ________________ I changed the polarity on my seven because the rev counter I was going to use required it. All you have to do is repolarise the dynamo by just touching 12 volts from the battery across the field coil in the opposite direction.(and after you must connect the battery the other way round of course) This changes the residual magnetism in the unit and means that the current starts in the opposite direction when it just starts working. This current energizes the field coil with the field reversed and the unit works the other way. The field coil is between the small spade terminal on the dynamo and the body (ground). The opposite direction means that whatever ground you wish to have is connected to the body and the 'live' is touched onto the spade terminal a couple of times -just flicked over the surface. Job done! Since it is unbelievable is could be that simple, check it with your voltmeter before connecting it back into the cars wiring. -----Original Message----- From: JF Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 5:28 PM To: lotus at se7ens.net Subject: [Lotus] Lucas electrics, alternator conversions and positive ground I have to agree with JWW. We should leave the electrics as original as possible. While I understand the advantages of alternators, I enjoy watching the lights dim and brighten with the revs. It's further conformation that all is working correctly. The only area I'm considering changing on my Series 2 Seven (1965) is reversing the positive ground. And, here's why. A year ago I acquired an exhaust gas analyzer instrument which I've been told is the best route to figure the optimum jets on Webbers at various loads. Better than a rolling road I've been told. The problem is the instructions say it only works with a negative ground systems. Has anyone else changed from positive to negative ground on a Series 2? And if so, how did you do it and were there any problems? Jeremy SB2097 jww wrote: ><rant> I have two Sevens using all Lucas electrics. Both have >dynamos and regulators and thus far (in 3 years) I haven't >had a single problem. I use Lucas electics because that is >the original equipment for the car. > >IMHO I find that electrics in most restored Lotus Sevens 1957 >to 1973 have been badly re-installed during the restoration >process. Wiring should be neat and tidy and not like a >plateful of spaghetti behind the dashboard. The taped loom >should pass along and the various tails should just neatly >bridge from the loom to the relevent connection, usually a >matter of two or three inches. With that done problems are >easier to locate. > >I find all the Lucas electrical products in my cars are >totally reliable with the possible exception of the dynamo to >engine bracket on my Series Two which is a Ford item anyway. >Lucas have made electrical components for a great number of >British car manufacturers for the best part of a century. All >these companies cannot possibly be wrong!! > >The relatively small amount of electrical equipment in early >Sevens causes a comparatively light load on the battery if >installed properly. Unless you're planning the addition of >air conditioning, a 100 watt hi-fi and uprated headlights and >want these all on at the same time, you really don't need to >run an alternator. However, you would be prudent to regularly >check your battery levels and plug into a battery >conditioner. Remember most electrical problems on Sevens are >due to bad earthing. > >If you want a modern Seven, then get a Caterham, Westfield, >Locost, Robin Hood, or whatever. If you want the genuine >article, a Lotus Seven built in the 1960s, then why not run >it as they used to. As I've said, I've never had a problem. >Boy do you guys love 'improving' what are now 30 to 46 years >old and are after all classic sportscars. Be proud of them >and their idiosyncrasies!!!</rant> > >Cheers, > >JWW. _______________________ Hi all, I agree with Flemming. Original Series Two had mechanical Water Temp and Oil Pressure, just leaving Tacho if electric, swapping the wires over on the Ammeter and the dynamo ofcourse. Series One and America models used mechanical tachos which means just two jobs. Series Three and Four models were negative earth from the factory and I can't think of a single reason to change this! However one other thing: the earth side of the battery wants to be the forward post for clearance of the bonnet otherwise sparks will fly, so if you are changine polarity this should be remembered! Just my penn'th! JWW (snip) <<< There is no real good reason to convert back to a positive ground, unless you want your car to be as 'British' as it was when it left the factory. However, it is not as difficult as it may seem. Polarizing the generator is pretty simple, and can be done in about fifteen minutes, without even removing the generator from the car. Voltage regulator is not affected by a polarity change. Starter will turn the right direction with either polarity, so no rewiring is needed. An electronic tachometer will need to have the internals rewired for the correct polarity, but a mechanical tachometer will never know the difference. If you have an electrical temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, or a fuel gauge, you will need to replace these, but mechanical gauges will not be affected. Finally, if you have an ammeter, as originally fitted, you will need to switch the two wires on the back of the meter, or get used to the meter reading reverse of normal. The rest of the electrical equipment, e.g. lighting, horn, coil and distributor, etc. will not require any rewiring, but if you have an electronic ignition system, it will have to be replaced or rewired for the correct polarity. Electricity is pretty simple, if you know how it works, but if you don't, it is better to leave it alone, or to hand it off to someone who does. And remember the old rule: "If it works, don't try to fix it." -- Flemming >>>
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