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C20XE Foam Baffle and Gasket


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Posted

Well… it’s time to drop the oil pan and checkout this foam baffle on my 97 HPC. It’s got the 2.0L Vauxhall C20XE engine. 
 

any good leads on the foam baffle?

 

And same for the cork gasket?  Or could I put the sump back on with silicone instead? Or other recommended options? 

Posted (edited)

You need to have a look at what your car has. There is NO cork gasket!  There are two rubber (or other flexy material) gaskets held together with rivets. The C20xe has a windage tray the sits between these two gaskets. You can buy the gaskets separately and rivet them yourself, buy them riveted together or pay more and get it complete with a new windage tray as seen in the photos. You cannot use just a liquid type gasket.

Sorry I can not find a photo of the foam baffle. it's just pre cut open foam with a cutout for the pick up.

You can check with Chris at: https://redlinecomponents.co.uk Phone works better when it works. Yo can also find him via several of the Caterham Facebook pages.

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Edited by theDreamer
Posted

I had to get the baffle from Caterham England.... but you could check around.  I also bought the gasket/wind tray combo as opposed to a separate gasket deal.  I used an approved sealant on the gasket itself and especially where the block joins the front/rear engine pieces.... you will note the joined areas.

The old baffle was 7 years old but was 'as new'...no degradation at all.  Still, piece of mind etc.

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Posted (edited)

Looks right, this is what I bought...the same as that was in place...I'd replace it every time you removed the sump as the gasket part does lose its form....if you reused it you'd have leaks.  Given the last time mine was changed, and how good the baffle looked (zero degradation) I'd not change it very often.... another 7 years or so.

 

VAUXHALL OPEL 2.0 C20NE C20XE C20LET TURBO OIL PAN SUMP GASKET ELRING | eBay

 

p.s. even tho you will drain prior to removing the sump a lot of oil will remain so be careful not to take a bath...what you see in the pic is what remained after draining the sump in the traditional manner....

Edited by Reiver
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Posted

Also, I had a slight leak prior to changing the gasket sump... I thought from the front crank seal but it was very slight.  

 

When replacing the pan/gasket I coated both sides with Reinzosil lightly but more in the block joinery where it meets the front/rear pieces.  

 

After doing so I had no leaks whatsoever.... dry as a bone.

 

Amazon.com: Victor Reinz 70-31414-10 Reinzosil RTV Silicone - 70 ml Tube : Health & Household

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Posted

Thank you!  I’ll add that to my list. Right now I’ve got a slightest leak from the oil pressure sensor (I’m assuming that’s it) as there’s a slight oil coating on the block, and after drive, it might leave a tiny drop on the floor. 
 

but maybe it’s the gasket. 

Posted

Yeah, very hard to tell the source.... good luck...oh, one other thing...lining up the sump, windage tray etc... is a bit finicky so get some shoulderless studs to put into the block as guides on either side.  once in place and you have a few bolts in remove them and carry on.  That works very well.

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Posted

When our car arrived from Utah it had a number of issues that where not mentioned in the comments or correspondence. An oil leak being one major ones. As I had budgeted for changing all fluids I had thought about the sump gasket but not the cost. The mechanic tried to tighten the sump bolts and then dropped the sump and used a liquid gasket on both sides before refitting. A large amount of expensive oil was on the floor the next morning. So I agree, whenever you drop the sump replace the gasket. The good thing is it shouldn’t need to be removed for some time. Se7en years seems a fitting number. :classic_biggrin:

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Posted

Chris at Sevens and Elans has always gotten me foam and gaskets as needed. I have a set coming shortly.

Posted

Just paid a fortune and ordered the foam from Caterham direct and the gaskets off eBay. I’ll have to check them out next time. 

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