cooling system T-piece options

[jmaz]

For my 310 Encore build, I'm considering replacing the supplied, blue-plastic T-piece that connects the engine, modine and expansion tank with the one recommended here (Gates 19mm T-piece, part # 28635) (https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/12/19/engine-plumbing-part-1/) or a stainless steel version.  The Gates one (nylon-reinforced plastic) is designed specifically for auto use and might be more durable overall.  Any suggestions or experience re. this t-piece would be welcome.  

[7Westfield]

I consider those blue fittings suitable only for PCV/vent applications

or your lawn sprinkler

[EdWills]

Hi @jmaz.  I have a few of these that I would be willing to send you for free, but the complicated postal system these days is too much to contend with. You don't mention the o.d. of the fittings required, but go to your local big box hardware store and look for 'Pex' fittings.  They should be made of brass (sometimes chrome over brass?) and normally come manufactured for 1/2" pex pipe or 3/4" pipe.  You may require metric size for your car, and if so, some Italian manufactured pex fitting may be available, but not sure.  Here in Canada, although mostly metric, we rely on Imperial fitting sizes along with many other construction items also in Imperial measure.  Cheers W.

[jmaz]

6 hours ago, EdWills said:

Hi @jmaz.  I have a few of these that I would be willing to send you for free, but the complicated postal system these days is too much to contend with. You don't mention the o.d. of the fittings required, but go to your local big box hardware store and look for 'Pex' fittings.  They should be made of brass (sometimes chrome over brass?) and normally come manufactured for 1/2" pex pipe or 3/4" pipe.  You may require metric size for your car, and if so, some Italian manufactured pex fitting may be available, but not sure.  Here in Canada, although mostly metric, we rely on Imperial fitting sizes along with many other construction items also in Imperial measure.  Cheers W.

Thanks for that kind offer and suggestion re. the pex version.   I'd gotten another recommendation for the Gates 28635 T-piece (from Josh Robbins at Rocky Mountain Caterham), so I've ordered one for around $8.00 from Amazon.  It seems like one of those strange ways in which Caterham does things, where they could easily and cheaply upgrade a part but choose not to.

[IamScotticus]

I would do brass barb fittings. 

The rule for 7s is everything shakes loose.  Or something vibrates and cuts into something.  The part may say " for Automotive use".  This means it's resistance to heat, fluids and maybe oils, are within typical automotive variables.  But 7s are outside of those parameters.  I would avoid plastic if possible.

Double clamp but don't double the clamping force.  Ensure the hoses are tolerant of the coolant used.  Test the pressure cap before relying on it. Assume nothing. 

[EdWills]

Hi @jmaz.

 

Glad you have found what you were looking for.  Apologies for lousy photo, but if the Gates 'T' piece doesn't work, the photo showing the Pex 'T' may be better?  I have shown 1/2", but 3/4" the same.  I totally agree with Scott that brass would be a better choice, the barbs will probably hold better, and the brass looks nicer.  Cheers W.

[jmaz]

Thanks.  I was originally thinking of using one of these types of brass fittings but began wondering if galvanic corrosion between aluminum and copper content in the brass might be a concern, at least over the long term.  However, since the temperature sensor "submarine" is brass, as is the fitting for the heater, maybe the addition of one more brass components wouldn't matter.   The Gates T-piece has only one barb on each of the arms, so the pex version's additional and probably stronger barbs would be an advantage, as you note.  

[IamScotticus]

1 hour ago, jmaz said:

wondering if galvanic corrosion between aluminum and copper content in the brass might be a concern, at least over the long term.

This happens all over , especially on the wiring connections.  Unavoidable.  Only thing to do replace the fluids and rubber hoses and inspect the parts regularly, like every three years.  Not every 20 years.  Its those 20 years guys that have the big problems.  The best solution foe galvanic issues is to use a battery disconnect.  Also ensure grounds are cleaned annually. Ensure the engine head is grounded.  Many things corrode because there is insufficient grounding elsewhere.