Jump to content

OIL PUMP FOR 1600 X-FLOW?


Recommended Posts

Besides dave Bean does anyone know where i can get a rebuilt/new/like new stock oil pump for our 1600 x-flow ford??

 

Our oil pressure is uncomfortably low and i want to start with the easiest solution first. It's supposed to be new "crate" engine i am hoping all the bearings are in good shape. The existing pump i belive (according to the kent ford rebuild book) is the vane type and i would want the lobe type instead. I cant find any details about increasing the pressure by adjusting the relife valve or anything. (we made the 1275 sprite pressure adjustable!) it does have constant pressure..but just really low.

 

We tried the usual venues (local parts stores and ford dealerships) D.B .has them, just looking for a deal if we can..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can remove the pump, on the face of the pump you can see the oil pressure relief spring and retainer. You can take a punch or socket the size of the retainer and punch it in around a 1/32 or 1/16 put a washer between the retainer and block to keep it in place on reassembly and see what increase you get. Unfortunately the oil pressure relief valve is unservicable otherwise. More pressure punch in a little farther. Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, the birkin original oil gauge is in KPA's...and if my calc's are close, about 13 PSI warm and at 3.7k rpm's... to me thats low.

 

i would like to see at least 20 psi at the very very least. i have usually run around 30 psi on my race motors..or gotten nervous. :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's probably an evenings worth of Crossflow oil pressure posts on Blatchat. The most recent is here:

 

http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=151607

 

I've stopped (pretty much) worrying about the low pressure at idle. My gauge is in bars, and I'm usually around 1 bar or less at idle (1200 rpm).

 

The Wallage book on Crossflows states that minimum at 700 rpm is 0.6 kp/cm2 and 1.5 at 2000 rpm.

 

The other problem I've had is with my sender. I've replaced it once, and the current one is as bad as the first. It's erratic at best - the needle will just drop to zero, then start bouncing around, then settle in. Don't know what sender you're using (mine is Caborent (sp?)), but again per Blatchat, converting to a mechanical gauge is a recommended solution.

 

Burton's over in the UK sells the high pressure pump - I think there is also a high volume pump.

 

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That does sound low to me too, Robert. However, as Steve notes, senders (at least on Caterhams) are notorious.

 

I had a standard lobe pump on my engine originally and would have similar pressure to what Steve quotes from Wallage. I ended up fitting a high pressure pump and now have ~2.5-3 bar warm and at speed.

 

I think I still have the original pump on my shelf. It seemed to work fine when I removed it. I'd have to make sure it hasn't gotten any crud in it while sitting for the last couple of years, but if you're interested you can have it for postage.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My pressure is around 35-45 much over idle, warmed up. Higher cold, of course. I am using 20-50 Redline synthetic. I had 15-45 Mobile- One w/similar results. Then i put in an after market additive to make it even better and it dropped 20 lbs. So, I did an oil change and the pressure went back up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Dave have you thought about opening a shipping service?

 

I got the pump already!...that was quick shipping, must have been delivered by a se7en!

 

:7drive: thank you!

 

You should thank UPS, not me. :)

 

Anyway, glad you received it okay and that it works out for you.

 

Cheers!

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, they "new "pump works fine..the problem is something else isnt so fine. It added another 2 psi to the system, but not nearly enough. It will have to do for now, we think perhaps this new crate engine that came with the car..might not have been what it was supposed to be. We suspect the bearing clearances are rather open and she's loosing pressure as such.

 

:confused:

 

SO...... for right now we will run it as is, keep a weather eye on the oil gauge, and decide what to do with this engine come winter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is one of the options...and yeah, it would probably cost about the same engine-wise..it's the little things that worry me..though i am sure my 40's would work, rejetted, and the crank trigger would still do the triggering.. but theres manifolds-exhaust-clutch- cooling to consider.

 

:7frog:

 

but yes,,,,this is an option for sure!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

straight 50?...it would be worth a try i guess..might loose a pony or 2 with the thick stuff..

 

but i have a hard time finding straight 30 or 40...where do you get straight 50?...perhaps i am just looking at the wrong shelf?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robert,

Summit has straight 50, 60 and 70(!) weight synthetic oil available. 50 weight is part # RED-10504, $8.95 per quart.

 

I can ask around the club and see what kind of crossflows some of the racers may have lying aroung the shop if you want. Dropping in a fresh engine may be less painfull than waiting for the present one to get spruced up. Count me in as an extra set of hands whichever way you decide.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...