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Trailer Group Purchase


slngsht

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When I talk to Alumina (as when I discussed this with Dennis Hedges), I'll ask for trailer brakes as an option, so those who want it can have it, without increasing the cost for others. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif

 

 

 

 

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I have given some thought to a light weight car hauler suitable for my Rotus. Although I have a Car Caddy tow dolly I am reluctant to tow it great distances with that equipment becaue the jury is out as to possible lubrication problems with even a manual transmission unless the drive shaft is removed. In addition there is no weather protection so if one encounters rain then there is sure to be several days of "dry out" time required because we all know that these cars, even with the top up or a tonneu cover are far from weather tight. I have towed large travel trailers for some 15 years so I have definite ideas of what I would want in my car hauler. The basic chassis should be tandem axle with electric brakes with a manual over ride on at least one of the axles. Tandem axles are much easier to back up and would require lower capacity wheels and tires. Torsion rubber suspension would allow lowest load floor. Ramps would be self stowing.The unit would be enclosed but need not necessarily be be hard sided. I envision a hard nose section with the remainder of the enclosure consisting of heavy duty canvas like that used on commercial trucks fitted over a series of fixed metal hoops. The canvas cover would be attached with metal snaps similar to those used on boat covers. Admitedly not as convenient as a fully enclosed hard sided unit but it would keep over all weight to a minimum while providing an acceptacle amount of weather protection. I saw a unit similar to this at Carlisle and it was being used to transport a Westfield 7.

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Redbaron, Excellent post!

 

 

 

I didn't know about torsion rubber axles...

 

 

 

 

 

Quick google: >http://www.kmtparts.com/store.asp?pid=9284

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.kmtparts.com/client_images/catalog19666/pages/images/Torflex-Page-Image.jpg

 

 

 

Price seems reasonable at $281 per axle including electric brake, or $163 for no brakes.

 

 

 

Thanks.

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A 'Seven' will be about half the weight of a Miata. The same goes with an aluminum trailer versus a steel trailer. The overloaded and swaying evidenced with heavier trailers and cars should not be an issue. Just an FYI.

 

 

 

 

 

tm

 

 

 

My Miata weighs just under 2,400 lb. I'm hoping the Caterham SV will weigh in at around 1,300 lb when finished.

 

 

 

Whichever trailer I buy has to be able to carry either car so it will probably have to be a bit longer for the 13 foot long Miata. I will go for the brake option.

 

 

 

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All,

 

I spoke to both Dennis Hedges and Dean from Alumina during the last couple of days...

 

 

 

The dimensions I gave Dean was outside-to-outside of fender = 67", and overall car length=12 feet.

 

 

 

He'll leave room upfront for a set of tires or a tool box.

 

 

 

Separate line item for electric brakes.

 

 

 

These trailers use the torsion rubber axle.

 

 

 

My initial impression is that $2K will not be doable. Apparently the price of Aluminum has gone up.

 

 

 

Dennis didn't think $2K was doable either.

 

 

 

I will keep y'all posted as I get more info.

 

 

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

Dean's response

 

 

Good morning Mazda:

 

Thanks for your interest in Aluma's trailers. It really is great to hear about how well our aluminum trailers are appreciated by all of our customers and those who would like to own an Aluma trailer.

 

 

 

I will get back to you with further details about your quote/request.

 

Have a nice day.

 

Dean Maschoff

 

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If I could make a few suggestions. I pull trailers about 40k miles a year. I have built 5 trailers over the last 7 years and have a few suggestions. Aluminum is nice for a trailer but is very cost prohibitive. Alot of the aluminum trailers also suffer from stress fractures. I know this because I have repaired alot of aluminum horse trailers and they are built very sturdy and still crack.

 

For a 7 type vehicle a single axle trailer works very well and reduce your expense by about 500.00 dollars. You have 1 less axle, 2 fewer wheels and tires, smaller fenders.   Electric brakes are a better way to go as well. Most surge hitch system will start about 400.00 compaired to 99.00 for electric. You just have to put a 60.00 controller in you tow vehicle. If you are using a full size truck or SUV trailer brakes may not even be needed.   The disadvantage to single axle is if you suffer a blowout the trailer can become a bit unstable. Usually managable, but with high degree of pucker factor involved.

 

 

 

Use only a quality trailer tire. Do not use radial car tires on a trailer. If you do you are just asking for trouble. I have never had a blowout on a trailer tire equipped trailer ( at least 400k miles of towing) I have had several with car tire equipped trailers.

 

 

 

A few of you have complained about trailer whipping. This is usually associated with not enough tounge weight.   If the car is loaded to far back unloading the tounge a severe whip is a gaurantee. You should have a minimum of 150-200 lbs of tounge weight.

 

 

 

Brian Anderson from World Class Motorsports has built a few trailers for the Ultralite. Both were single axles. 1 had flat bed that was ten foot long it had a tilt bed. You could load the car with no ramps and it can be easily pulled with a small van or car. The second was still ten foot with tilt bed but had a frame top that had a heavy canvas cover. It pulled well and kept the car dry in the wet weather.

 

 

 

During the Run and Gun event last month Dennis Bruton brought his Super Stalker to the event in a single axle trailer that was enclosed with aluminum skin much like any other enclosed trailer. It had a sloped front about 2.5 feet tall and wedged up in the back to clear the roll cage. The back section lifted up so that it is easy to get in the car to remove from the trailer. It was also a tilt bed so no ramps are required. He was pulling it with a fullsize older Chevy van but most suv or small truck should be able to pull it easily. Might be to big for a car to pull. This unit will cost quite a bit more due to extra materials and labor to attach all that aluminum.

 

 

 

If there is anyone near Texas that wants a trailer I would be happy to build it for you. Shipping cost can eat your lunch on trailers.

 

 

 

Most areas have a custom fabrication shop that will build a custom trailer for you.   They are typically reasonable in price and they finish them quickly.

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I agree with your comments on an aluminum intensive trailer. For a unit the size we are discussing the weight differential between steel and aluminum is probablly less than 200 pounds. It may be worth the time to check pricing with some of the trailer manufacturers in the Southeast. The dirty litle secret is that many of them employ convict labor which greatly reduces the labor cost element in chassis fabrication. However,one does need to be alert to weld quality from such suppliers.

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I have an enclosed trailer. Why you say? While they are more expensive, I am primarily running a "street" car, and if I am taking it somewhere for a cruise, it will arrive with dry seats if it rains. If I am taking it to the track, it has room for tools and supplies. see pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't have a pick-up, so it comes in handy for moving large items, or for moving a daughter's furniture. like lots of tools, the longer you have them, the more uses you find.

 

 

 

I have a Haulmark 16' Kodiak, enclosed trailer with rear ramp door, and the Seven fits perfectly with room in the front for tools. I have an extra 6" in height, which I do not like, due to additional air resistance, but I needed a trailer in a hurry, and that was available. Aside from that the trailer is great.

 

 

 

A note on trailering and electric brakes. When I picked up the trailer in northern Indiana, and towed it home to St.Louis while empty, it was a BEAR to tow. It oscillated side to side, and getting near a tractor-trailer was PUCKER CITY !! This is where the electric trailer brakes really help. If an oscillation starts, DON"T put on the car brakes ( unless you have to on an off ramp), you reach down and apply the trailer brakes manually, and the trailer straightens right out.

 

 

 

I later added a weight transfer hitch, and it helps the trailering under all conditions, including an empty trailer. I have a Tahoe, so the extra weight is within the capacity of the tow vehicle. I understand why a small trailer is desired for a seven. http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20061105_132051_DSC_0239_Small.JPG

 

 

 

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20061105_132111_DSC_0240_Small.JPG

 

 

 

http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20061105_132132_DSC_0241_Small.JPG

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I posted some threads on some other forums I'm on, and someone referred me to the following site:

 

 

 

www.alumaklm.com

 

 

 

I think the 7814S is the trailer that would be best for you guys after browsing around the site. Found here:

 

 

 

http://www.alumaklm.com/sections/products/template_new.php?product_id=18&product_category=5

 

 

 

I didn't find any prices posted on their website, but I figured I'd pass this along.Arya Ebrahimi2006-11-05 18:57:50

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I posted some threads on some other forums I'm on, and someone referred me to the following site:

 

 

 

www.alumaklm.com

 

 

 

I think the 7814S is the trailer that would be best for you guys after browsing around the site. Found here:

 

 

 

http://www.alumaklm.com/sections/products/template_new.php?product_id=18&product_category=5

 

 

 

I didn't find any prices posted on their website, but I figured I'd pass this along.

 

 

 

It's a small world!

 

 

 

Dean from Aluma is the guy we're working with to get quotes http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

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To get some idea of the price range that can be expected from Aluma I stopped in and chatted with one of their dealers in Hobe Sound, Florida.I was quoted a price of $3200 for the single axle Model 7814S and $4800 for the tandem axle Model 7814.Also, to get some idea of weight difference this dealer told me that a tandem axle 14ft, wood deck, steel frame unit would weigh in at 1600 lbs as compared to an Aluma equivalent at 1100 lbs.

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I believe that a "purpose designed" tandem axle steel frame trailer would weigh considerably less than the 1600 lbs I was quoted. These plain vanila utility trailrts have frames designed to handle the load capacity of the axles that are utilzed. Given the usual 3500. lb rating for the ususl axle this gets one to a 7,000 lb GVW. Assuming a 1600 lb. unloaded trailer weight this allows for a 5400 lb. vehicle load, far greater than the weight of a typical Lotus 7 or or Lotus 7 clone.A steel trailer designed to handle a 2000 lb. payload instead of 5400 lb. could be fabricated from lighter gage structural steel and would greatly reduce the steel versus aluminum weight differential, perhaps like the 200 lb. I alluded to prior a my prior email

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Two more leads for steel trailers:

 

 

 

www.bjtrailers.com

 

 

 

www.kaufmantrailers.com

 

 

 

Both were recommended by other forums I'm on.

 

 

 

If you guys negotiate a discounted bulk rate from a supplier and they are willing to sell a standard "off the shelf" 16' tandem axle car hauler at the discounted rate, I may be in for one. Gonna need one soon to pull the buggy.

 

 

 

Ary

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Mazda

 

    That is real cheap. another alternative is a boat trailer for a larger boat with ramps put on it. I have one that I picked up for $300 it had a cat walk bed 10' x 6.5' that I intend to stretch a bit.

 

Jim

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