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Trailer Group Purchase


slngsht

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I've towed a variety of different car trailers for over 20 years. I firmly believe that if towing anything with a total weight of 3000 or more pounds, you need brakes. Total weight includes everything on the other side of the hitch - trailer, car, other stuff, etc. Under 3000, and brakes are very nice to have, especially when a truck is passing or when going down a steep hill. The above is regardless of the tow vehicle. Anything over 5000 pounds behind the hitch should be towed with a decent tow vehicle - that means rear wheel drive, heavy, and a decent wheelbase. Short or lightweight haulers are dangerous when towing 5K or more. If towing over 7500 pounds, use a truck in the 1-ton range if tag, and at least a 3/4 ton if gooseneck or 5th wheel (like a Ford F250/F350 or Chevy 2500/3500).

 

 

 

If gas mileage matters to you, buy a lightweight open trailer, preferably with dual wheels. The difference in gas usage between an open and enclosed trailer is rather dramatic.

 

 

 

Every time I've tried to get away with a single axle trailer, even a sub-1000 pound trailer towing a 1400 pound car and no additional tires or storage, I've had major problems with tires. So unless you are towing less than 50 miles each way, go with dual axles on the trailer. While brakes aren't necessary on a light trailer with a light car, they are a very good safety item and should at least be considered.

 

 

 

Enclosed trailers take up lots of room and you can't drag them into your back yard then cover them with a tarp so they are out of sight. However if you do have room to store them, and a good truck to tow with, they sure are nice!

 

 

 

A few wooden slats and some really heavy canvas can turn an open trailer into an enclosed trailer. But the canvas will not last long especially if travelling on highways, and if it starts to tear apart it will whip against the car. This will at least ruin your paint job.

 

 

 

Aluminum trailers don't rust, should last longer, and will hold their value longer. But you need to find someone with welding talent if you want to add things like storage or a tire rack at a later date.

 

 

 

OK, that's my 2 cents worth....   http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif

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I got a tentative price from http://www.bjtrailers.com for a 6' X 12' steel single swing axle trailer with electric brakes and a re-inforced tail gate for $1,275.

 

This price does not include any tiedowns, etc... I'm sure they could be added. EDIT: Also, does not include shipping.

 

 

 

I am waiting for a price from a local shop. This will be higher, but he used to weld stuff for Rotus, is familiar with our cars, and had some ideas on low clearance issues. I'll keep you posted. It is looking promising.slngsht2006-11-14 12:02:13

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Not to rain on the parade, but everyone I've talked to in regards to this specific towing setup recommended going with a tandem axle. It's much easier on the trailer(more tires to distribute load) and the tow vehicle(less tongue weight). Also, who wants to have a car trailer that can only haul a Rotus? No offense, but if I were gonna plop down that much change for a trailer, I'd like to be able to use it for other things, including possibly other cars(taking the 'Vette to the track?).

 

 

 

My .02

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Not to rain on the parade, but everyone I've talked to in regards to this specific towing setup recommended going with a tandem axle. It's much easier on the trailer(more tires to distribute load) and the tow vehicle(less tongue weight). Also, who wants to have a car trailer that can only haul a Rotus? No offense, but if I were gonna plop down that much change for a trailer, I'd like to be able to use it for other things, including possibly other cars(taking the 'Vette to the track?).

 

 

 

My .02

 

 

 

It's a never ending cycle... Bigger trailer + bigger car = bigger tow vehicle. Some want to tow other cars, others want the lightest smallest trailer possible.

 

 

 

Tandem axle is definitely doable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I *think* a Miata will fit on these.

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  • 5 months later...

Hi Al,

 

As I mentioned before, I'm definitely interested in a trailer like Michael D's or something similar. Brakes would be a nice option, too.

 

Bruce

 

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Paul and I bought a 16x7 trailer, with electric brakes, rear ramp door, side door for $3999.99

heck them out at http://www.royalcargotrailers.com/

Here is the ebay link with pics & pricing.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-2007-ROYAL-ENCLOSED-7-x-16-W-RAMP-CARGO-TRAILER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ80770QQihZ003QQitemZ130099015764QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/Grkmf3/2b_0.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/Grkmf3/20_1.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/Grkmf3/a9_1.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/Grkmf3/96_1.jpg

 

Dino Trakas

Deman USA:mad:

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dino-I wish I could tow an enclosed...our Pilot's got a very weak tow rating. Many of us are looking for an affordable light open. See you soon (Carlisle?). -Al

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some feedback from my recent visit to the trailer place...

 

Aluma is too busy at the moment to build any "Michael D" specials until the end of the summer.

 

So they looked into other makers...

 

"A trailer 6 1/2 , or 6' wide on the deck, (same price either width) by 12 ft long deck, with upgraded frame and tongue ( larger box tube) a beavertail at the back, electric brakes, slide in ramps , slide under trailer, most likely from the side, so the ramp carriers do not drag the ground when going up driveways or up entrance driveways. This trailer in an Aluminum frame with 5/4 treated wood decking would start at $3100.00

 

Upgrade to a full aluminum deck, and it will cost $500 more. Upgrade to 2 axles both with electric brakes $600

more. In a steel frame trailer, the price with a wood deck, single axle with electric brakes would be $2700.00 double axle $600 more. steel deck add $300 Lead time for Aluminum about 4 to 5 weeks. In steel 8 to 10 weeks, (all

the steel manufacturers are very busy right now).

 

Would anybody else be in for a Se7en-specific trailer at these prices? Please advise ASAP. If we go this route, I'll want to place the order in the next few weeks so that I have the trailer in hand a few weeks before 7-7-7 to practice towing. Chime in or write me directly.

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Bruce-

 

He is guestimating that the weight of the aluminum single axle will be 500-600 pounds, and the double axle will be about 900-1000.

 

-Al

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The current dilemma:

 

Option A)

Custom Made "Michael D" style trailer in Aluminum.

6 or 6.5 x 12

Wood deck

Beavertail

Single Axle

Upgraded frame and tongue ( larger box tube) a beavertail at the back

Approx 500-600 lbs unloaded

Electric brakes, slide in ramps

 

$3100.00

Full Aluminum deck: Add $500

Double Axle (brakes on both): Add $600

 

Option B)

Steel utility trailer with 12" sides (I like this because I could carry junk in it too)

8.5 x 12

Wood deck

Single Axle

No Brakes

5 foot mesh ramp (I'm worried if a car will even roll on at this length)

Approx 1300 lbs unloaded

$1800 est.

 

Option C)

Enclosed HaulMark Transport

6 x 12

Single Axle

Brakes

6 foot ramp door

Approx 1580 lbs unloaded

$3400 est.

 

 

I find the Steel utility very tempting because of price. But the whole brakes/no brakes issue has me confused. The enclosed is within spitting distance of the aluminum open bed option, but I'm concerned about towing the enclosed in terms of stability/wind gusts.

 

Note that there are at least 2 other guys from the forum who are interested in a similar trailer, so perhaps a group buy would get the custom option down in price even further...additionally, we'd know that it works for our types of cars.

 

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but 7-7-7 is coming up fast...:ack:

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For option C I think even a 7' wide enclosed trailer may be tight. After all, you got to strap the car down and get in and out. You would need to be a weasel to do that when 6' wide.

 

BTW, Ihave a Valley Odyssey proportional brake controller coming in that I ordered for $85 in anticipation of buying a used trailer with brakes. That fell through and I may not get another one anytime soon.

 

If somebody needs one I would part with the controller for what I bought it (new out of the box). The usual Internet price seems to be around $109.

 

Anybody interested?

 

Gert

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I think option B might work for you and if you need a cover buy one of those instant setup awnings that you see at the racing pits. I think if you were into serious racing now and planning every weekend traveling to a different state and track, then a larger option A fully loaded like the pics Dino posted would be the ticket. Here is mine.

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1981891451_7pics 013.jpg

The 17hp JD will pull it anywhere, nevermine the truck just checking lights and how to strap it down. No brakes on the trailer. A 4-cyl Ranger pulled alot of weight on that trailer. The trailer bed is 6'x10' with removable 2' sides to haul mulch 'n stuff. $8 yearly registration, no inspection, and can haul over a ton. A 1 ton truck is almost $200/year registation and I still can't fit my 7 in the bed.:D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay folks, I'm about to pull the trigger on option A).

 

Anyone else in?

 

Option A)

Custom Made "Michael D" style trailer in Aluminum.

6 or 6.5 x 12

Wood deck

Beavertail

Single Axle

Upgraded frame and tongue ( larger box tube) a beavertail at the back

Approx 500-600 lbs unloaded

Electric brakes, slide in ramps

 

$3350.00 (still waiting for break down of everything, which I'll forward to all interested parties.

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Bruce-

 

I'm going to send you an email with the deets. I put in my order today, just to get the ball rolling so I get a trailer by the end of June. I'm sure you can add to the mix if you want to within the next week or so.

 

-Al

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