MHKflyer52 Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Hi Bruce, Nice trailer. Just be carfull if loading or unloading when the deck is wet as it can be very slick. Again very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al N. Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 I thought I'd share some observations after towing my "USA7s Special" Mission trailer for over 1600 miles. This trailer was inspired by Michael D's Aluma, but since Aluma didn't seem that interestedin making more on a timely basis...Performance Trailer (traileroutlet.com) found a manufacturer that would work with us. My config is 14 foot wood deck with single axle, electronic brakes, rear stab jacks (so you can load/unload without being hitched to a tow vehicle) and a spare tire mount. It has a 2 foot beavertail and 6 foot ramps. We use a Honda Pilot SUV 4WD to tow, and it doesn't have the highest tow rating. So the single axle aluminum trailer was a great way to go. I mostly towed in D3, as the Pilot would hunt betwen D4 and Overdrive otherwise. Unfortunately it does not have a D4 option on the selector. We got about 13 mpg with the trailer and SUV fully loaded. There was noticeable squat in the back, but not the worst I've seen on other vehicles towing...nor did I ever feel like my steering was compromised by lightness of the front end. We did get an electric brake controller, which I found to be helpful...when the trailer was unladen, it would lock up at low speeds at the normal setting, and I could dial that back. Mostly I drove with the controller set between 1.5 and 2.5. Only ONCE did I feel like "Oh, wow, my braking distance there was longer than I planned"...but I think that was early on in the trip and a factor of me not being used to towing. The racheting straps and hold downs I bought from Performance Trailer worked really well, as did their adjustable tie down rack - this lets you snap in mounting points wherever you want on a strip that's mounted to the floor of the trailer (full width). You can plug the locking point down in about 2 inch increments. I ended up strapping down off the front suspension bits (at the thickest points, outside the lower shock mount) and pulling those straight forward, then doing the rear through the wheels and crossed...I had tried the front through the wheels and crossed (mostly to get more length into the straps), but didn't like the way I the wheels seemed to toe in more if I tried to crank down on the straps...I released them right away...didn not notice any adverse affects. Having loaded the car in the hot sun before heading down...I can say that the metal gets hot to the touch. For this reason, I'm glad I went with a wood (it saved me $500 too) deck. I can't imagine what a ali deck would be like after a day in the auto-x sun. Not to mention slippery when wet. I do have some thoughts about improving future versions of the trailer, like incorporating a winch (in case you break down and don't have the folks from Illinois to help load you) and also building some sort of modular tire rack. I'm going to try and discuss these with Glenn E. soon, perhaps he'll use my trailer as the guinea pig for these upgrades and we can establish a line item price for these things. Additionally, I think the end of the ramps could be tapered (though the square section never really was a problem to roll over) a tad and the mounting racks somehow have teflon sliders built in so there's less friction sliding them in and out. As a total trailering newbie, I am very pleased with the trailer and how it has performed so far. NOTE that the outside to outside width of these trailers is more than 92"...probably around 95" as currently configured, though Glenn is working with another Se7ener to make them narrower...easily removeable fenders are also going in the mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery/d/43330-2/DSC00831.JPG This is my little flat bed trailer constructed from a boat trailer and galvinized catwalk, one primary feature is that it was only $350. The overall trailer is HEAVY, but very useful. To tow the 7 I will be adding removeable tire buckets front and rear to lengthen the trailer currently 10x6.5. The nice thing about the decking is that the entire deck is a tie down point and generaly is not slippery when wet. I believe the catwalk is available in aluminum. As the 7 frame is being constructed tie down points will be welded to the chassis front and rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manik Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 That galvanized catwalk is a really interesting prospect for a trailer. The rear edge of it would have to be capped off in some fashion to avoid the 'sharpness' of it. What's the weight differential between this material and a regular wood/aluminum deck? You would think it would be less heavy (more light?) than other alternatives, but the thickness might get you. Any other advantages/disadvantages? tm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 That galvanized catwalk is a really interesting prospect for a trailer. The rear edge of it would have to be capped off in some fashion to avoid the 'sharpness' of it. What's the weight differential between this material and a regular wood/aluminum deck? You would think it would be less heavy (more light?) than other alternatives, but the thickness might get you. Any other advantages/disadvantages? tm I have considered covering the ends with angle and probably will as a part of fitting removeable tire pockets. One definate advantage is it is nearly indestructable, and no water puddles to slip on. One advantage of the trailer is ease of loading since it is low and no obstructions. I had a 16' trailer that had a rotted wood deck when I got it which I replaced with a lighter ga catwalk grate, other than carying the materials I have no proof as to weight differential but after carying the water soaked wood I believe the resualtan trailer would have been lighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ottocycle Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 Hello everyone. For what it is worth I would recommend a material called "Grip tape", available from marine suppilers as a way of increasing traction on slippery surfaces. It is like a self adhesive wet and dry sandpaper available in a number of sizes. I faced the problem of trailering a lightweight car a few years ago and designed and built my own. I could not see the sense in using a 2,000lb. trailer to tow a 1,000lb. car. I used a torsion axle rated at 2,000lbs. and ended up with a pretty lightweight unit. I would prefer to have a 3,500lb. axle as it would enable me to carry a wider range of cars. It is worth considering a heavier trailer for that reason. (come to think of it, maybe not--everybody will be asking for your services!!!!). Having built one, I too have a number of ideas I would like to incorporate in a re-design. I would like to enclose it. It would effectivly give me another garage bay which I need badly. I am thinking of building the cover out of foam and thin marine plywood covered in glass fiber cloth. Most trailers out there are over engineered in that they often use heavy 1/8 "(or more) box section steel in a ladder frame design and get their stiffness and strength as a result of material mass. Think spaceframe!! On a laterally related note, I am interested in getting a new tow vehicle. I am interested in a used station wagon or minivan. I am looking for recommendations. Like everyone else I am looking for something that has plenty of room and power, gets 1000 MPG, is reliable, has all the bells and whistles, was owned by a little old lady who only drove it to church, and is cheap!!! I drove a 2001 Volvo turbo wagon last week and liked it but think a minivan would carry more stuff. I had a Chevy Astro before but found it had lousy build quality. The engine and trans were fine but things like door handles switches etc. were crap. I need to loook at at an Odyssey, Previa etc. Any suggestions guys? I'm sorry I missed the TOD run. It looks like you guys had a great time. I was involved in the "24 hours of LeMons" in California. Google it or check it out on U Tube. Altamont never had seen such action since the Rolling Stones came to town! Mazda, I hope to make your September drive. Sounds like fun. Thanks all, Dermot. Fury/Hayabusa. Bethesda, MD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 On a laterally related note, I am interested in getting a new tow vehicle. I am very happy with my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe (2.7 V6) as a tow vehicle (FWD). Relatively inexpensive, has 10 years power-train warranty (but never been to the shop except tune-up) and is rated to tow 2700 pounds when equipped with ABS (lightweight trailer plus Seven). I found the engine well sufficient to exceed any freeway speed limit when towing even in the mountains. I get about 20-23 mpg out of it on the highway (never measured with trailer, though). Newer models can tow a little more but I heard the bigger V6 uses more gas. Gert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 Hello everyone. For what it is worth I would recommend a material called "Grip tape", available from marine suppilers as a way of increasing traction on slippery surfaces. It is like a self adhesive wet and dry sandpaper available in a number of sizes. I faced the problem of trailering a lightweight car a few years ago and designed and built my own. I could not see the sense in using a 2,000lb. trailer to tow a 1,000lb. car. I used a torsion axle rated at 2,000lbs. and ended up with a pretty lightweight unit. I would prefer to have a 3,500lb. axle as it would enable me to carry a wider range of cars. It is worth considering a heavier trailer for that reason. (come to think of it, maybe not--everybody will be asking for your services!!!!). Having built one, I too have a number of ideas I would like to incorporate in a re-design. I would like to enclose it. It would effectivly give me another garage bay which I need badly. I am thinking of building the cover out of foam and thin marine plywood covered in glass fiber cloth. Most trailers out there are over engineered in that they often use heavy 1/8 "(or more) box section steel in a ladder frame design and get their stiffness and strength as a result of material mass. Think spaceframe!! On a laterally related note, I am interested in getting a new tow vehicle. I am interested in a used station wagon or minivan. I am looking for recommendations. Like everyone else I am looking for something that has plenty of room and power, gets 1000 MPG, is reliable, has all the bells and whistles, was owned by a little old lady who only drove it to church, and is cheap!!! I drove a 2001 Volvo turbo wagon last week and liked it but think a minivan would carry more stuff. I had a Chevy Astro before but found it had lousy build quality. The engine and trans were fine but things like door handles switches etc. were crap. I need to loook at at an Odyssey, Previa etc. Any suggestions guys? I'm sorry I missed the TOD run. It looks like you guys had a great time. I was involved in the "24 hours of LeMons" in California. Google it or check it out on U Tube. Altamont never had seen such action since the Rolling Stones came to town! Mazda, I hope to make your September drive. Sounds like fun. Thanks all, Dermot. Fury/Hayabusa. Bethesda, MD. I pulled mine with an Odyssey. My car is heavy, and so is my trailer. It's a 16' dual axle steel job - a regular car hauler. I know that combo is a little too much for the Ody, but a light weight 7 on an aluminum trailer will be just fine. Make sure you post up in the Sept. blat thread. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 I pull a 1,400 lb, 18' aluminum tiltbed trailer with a 1,338 lb Se7en on board with an '05 Subaru Legacy GT wagon. No problems with towing at 85 mph. The trailer has electric brakes on both axles. I am concerned about towing over I-70 while the construction is going on in the Eisenhower tunnel. Traffic is stop and go for a mile or so prior to the tunnel on some of the steeper grades and I don't think the clutch will live through more than 2 or 3 stops and starts. I have two trips scheduled over this route this summer and have arranged to borrow a GMC pickup with V8 and towing package for those trips. Otherwise I am very happy with the Subie as a tow vehicle. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=34978 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirkinBernie Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 I finally broke down a few months ago and bought an Aluma in preparation for our trip to 777. But I went with a smaller one. It weighs 540 lbs, and tows very well behind our '97 Outback. Car with trailer is 1800 lbs give or take a few, well within Scoobie's 2000 lb rating. The deck is 10 ft x 77 inches, and overall it is 102 inches wide. Unfortunately, other unexpected expenses came up and our trip to 777 got sunk. Car isn't tied down in the pic - it was the first test-fit..... Bernie http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/372046174_trailerfront.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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