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i recall a discussion regarding trailers back a year or so ago. this topic is a little different.

 

i currently have access to a 16ft trailer that Ive used in conjunction with a borrowed truck. the experience showed me that a trailer that size is a bit overkill. after being prodded by my fellow 7ers at carlisle i am considering a trailer for my 7 that i can tow with my jetta wagon. my concern is regarding the width because my 7 is already about 6ft wide and with the 5x10 wheels with slicks it pokes a bit more. i found this out when i used the 16ft trailer and the rear wheels where right up against the rails.

 

im considering a small trailer as pickered in this listing.

 

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/1167937869.html

 

i would get some brackets welded along the back or sides so that long ramps that would slide under or along the sides of the trailer.

 

my issue is with the use of these tiny wheels. are thye safe? what are the speed limitations? could some sort of suspention be added to this?

 

inquiring mind needs to know :)

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The ad still shows up for me.

 

That trailer is not nearly big enough.

 

I highly doubt that trailer can take 3000 lbs. You always want to go overkill.

 

For your 7, you probably want at least 6.5 x 14. You will probably want to mount the slicks at the track anyway to avoid flat spotting. A single 2000lb axle should be fine and will be a lot lighter since you're towing with a jetta wagon. You may want to look into aluminum as they're a lot lighter and don't rust like the steel ones do (though they're significantly more expensive).

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If towing with a Jetta, best bet will be aluminum. Weight is your main concern here. I agree 6.5 x 14 is the smallest you want to go. I use a 6x12 enclosed for my stock 1978 Caterham and it leaves room for nothing else. I prefer to use a dual axle set up for my trailers, again however my 6x12 which I have 18,000 miles on is a single I just am very anal about the tires and bearings. For highway speeds you may want a 13 or 14 inch wheel, much easier on the bearings and a better choice of tires. Finally I would make sure the trailer has electric brakes it will make life so much easier on your car not to metion the safety factor.

 

My expensive recomendation.

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my location is usually within 15-45 min of the autox course so i dnt worry much about flat spots. i liked that trailer because if need be i can creep the sides of the tire over the edge.

 

pardon the stupid questions... new to trailers.

 

regarding weight i have towed over 3500lb loads regularly with my old golf which was less powerful. ive never felt a need for better brakes...

 

regarding aluminum, its hard to spot one used thats the size i need.

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A ton of feather weights the same as a ton of lead…

 

I am far from an expert on trailers but I do know that that aluminum trailers need more bracing because aluminum is not as strong as steal. And once you add all the aluminum bracing, your weight saving is not as much as one would think compared to the steal.

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A ton of feather weights the same as a ton of lead…

 

I am far from an expert on trailers but I do know that that aluminum trailers need more bracing because aluminum is not as strong as steal. And once you add all the aluminum bracing, your weight saving is not as much as one would think compared to the steal.

 

While I'll agree aluminum isn't as strong a steel, it is stronger per unit weight. (keep in mind this is aluminum alloy we're taking about here, not just Al). This is why you see it used in aircraft structure, etc.

 

Not all trailers are created equal, so it's not an easy apples to apples comparison. If you're trying to tow with a smaller tow vehicle, weight is a concern and I wouldn't discount the aluminum trailers. The one I've towed with was about 1/2 the weight of other steel trailers I've used.

 

Also, it's likely a legal thing regarding brakes. The electric brakes generally require a lot less maintenance. Get a good brake controller like a prodigy that will servo the brakes based on G loading.

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The trailer may work for your needs. Go take a look. The side wall of the tire will give you a load rating per tire. You may be able to upgrade the tire/wheels to a larger size depends on the hubs. looks like a snowmobile trailer.

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my location is usually within 15-45 min of the autox course so i dnt worry much about flat spots. i liked that trailer because if need be i can creep the sides of the tire over the edge.

 

pardon the stupid questions... new to trailers.

 

regarding weight i have towed over 3500lb loads regularly with my old golf which was less powerful. ive never felt a need for better brakes...

 

regarding aluminum, its hard to spot one used thats the size i need.

 

You might want to check with the local LAW to find out if you can legaly tow that trailer with your 7 on it with a VW Golf as I would be willing to bet your trailer and 7 will out weigh the towing capicity of your Golf.

Its not how much it will pull but how much it will stop, information is usually found in the owners manual for the car.

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I think trying to get by with a cheap, undersized trailer is like buying a cheap helmet. How much is your head/Seven worth?

 

I've been through 5 different trailers with my Seven starting with a borrowed single axle with no brakes. Almost lost it, the Seven and the Legacy GT tow car on a long downhill run.

 

Then I bought an 8 x 18 aluminum tilt bed trailer from H&H. Dual axles with brakes on all four wheels. Great trailer and it towed so much better but a little overkill for a Seven or even a Miata. Easy to load and unload.

 

Then I decided I wanted a smaller, enclosed trailer so I sold the H&H bought and enclosed race car trailer custom built on a flatbed trailer base. It turned out to be a POS so I sold it. A nightmare to tow when loaded.

 

The next one was a 7.5 x 15 enclosed United I bought used. It was heavy and did not tow well either so I sold it.

 

Finally, I found a used '08 Haulmark Low Hauler designed for motorcycles. It is a 7 x 14 and a good fit for the Seven. I've towed a couple of Miatas in it and they fit but you can't open the doors so you have to climb out over the doors.

 

This is the best towing by far of all the trailers I've used. The top is 20" lower than the United and it has a V-nose. Gas mileage went from 7 mpg to 12 mpg. The lower height means I can't stand up straight in it but it is not that difficult to walk around in, just keep your head bowed (as you should in the presence of a Seven :D ).

 

An enclosed trailer makes a secure garage for the car when traveling and a good place for shelter from the rain or sun at the track.

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Roman,

 

I did an all aluminum trailer from: http://www.alumaklm.com

 

Between the low isides about 10" H. It has 78" X 12' flat bed area. I also have the bifold ramp. I cut most of the center of the ramp out for oil pan & gearbox to clear. I think mine has 2700 GVW & an empty weight of 700 LBS. I pull it with an 6cyl. XLT F150 & auto. It was an instock item at the dealer W/O brakes. If I get rid of the F150 & do a Jetta TDI I would add brakes to it. I think it was $2500. With the 1220 LB Birkin on it is fine at any speed.

 

Gary

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id love to get an aluminum one like al got way back. i called the dealer and he has one that he offered for $2800($3400 normally) and a bit more for the full metal deck version. problem is after the turbo, suspension, new wheels, and other items a costly trailer will really push my budget.

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