Caterham Quick Release Install

[Boxologist]

The best part of getting a car running is the hurry to get it not running with some other problem:banghead::smilielol5:

 

For a car fitted w/ 'permanent' hub Momo steering wheel.

 

1. take off bonnet, any weather gear & nose cone.

 

2. loosen and free lower steering column from u-joint above steering rack

 

3. At the Upper and Lower steering column overlap, loosen set screw(hex head), remove surrounding nut and 2 opposite bolts.

 

4. Loosen and free (2 bolts) the ignition switch(driver's footwell, I should hope) on the steering column sleeve.

 

5. take off steering wheel.

 

6. pull upper steering column out through interior side. Pull Hard!

note: DON'T hit self and break jaw with steering column.

 

Speculation

 

7. Insert new Quick Release column w/ hub &/or steering wheel attached through steering column sleeve.

 

8. attach 2 bolts (10 ft-lbs)to connect flanges to lock upper and lower steering columns together. Attach and tighten nut an dset screw on flat side of lower column.

 

9. Retighten lower steering column to u-joint. 15 ft-lbs.

 

Ok, I'm stuck between 5 and 6. On a blatchat search, they say get a ratcheting tie rope and use that to pull the upper column out if difficult. any other suggestions or experiences.

[bsimon]

Use the ratchet strap method. It eases the column out of the bushing holder without any spectacular events. Put a 2X4 behind the roll over bar so you get a straight pull with the shaft.

[scannon]

Since you still have the steering column lock, you are removing the upper bushing along with the steering shaft. I did it by sitting in the driver seat with the steering wheel still attached and just using the steering column locking lug as a slide hammer against the bushing.

 

Be very careful with the bolts on the steering lock, they are designed to break off at a fairly low torque.

 

This would be a great time to relocate the ignition switch to the dash board. I used a new Chevrolet truck ignition switch from the 70's and mounted it out on the dash. If your new steering shaft has the lug on it for the steering lock, cut it off and smooth up the area for future ease of removal.

 

The wiring was long enough that I didn't have to cut or splice any of them. I did have to add a small jumper on the back of the switch to provide power to the ignition system while in the Start position as the old switches used a separate circuit in Start to bypass the ballast resistor.

 

Skip

[Boxologist]

ratchet method isn't a success yet. i'm able to drag the car when ratcheting. Where is the upper column bushing, in the bottom of the fixed sleeve or at the top?

 

should i unbolt the column sleeve? I don't see that a being neccessary if the bushing is to slid out thru the column.

 

"Since you still have the steering column lock, you are removing the upper bushing along with the steering shaft. I did it by sitting in the driver seat with the steering wheel still attached and just using the steering column locking lug as a slide hammer against the bushing."

Perhaps this is confusing me. should I leave the igntion switch on and let the steering lock catch the bushing? or engage disengage teh lock to rattle the column to help free itself?

[scannon]

ratchet method isn't a success yet. i'm able to drag the car when ratcheting. Where is the upper column bushing, in the bottom of the fixed sleeve or at the top?

 

should i unbolt the column sleeve? I don't see that a being neccessary if the bushing is to slid out thru the column.

 

"Since you still have the steering column lock, you are removing the upper bushing along with the steering shaft. I did it by sitting in the driver seat with the steering wheel still attached and just using the steering column locking lug as a slide hammer against the bushing."

Perhaps this is confusing me. should I leave the igntion switch on and let the steering lock catch the bushing? or engage disengage teh lock to rattle the column to help free itself?

 

There are two bushings. The upper bushing is just slightly in from the dashboard surface. Only the upper one needs to be removed.

 

Release the grub screw and lock nut and remove the clamp on the telescoping section of the column. Remove the steering column lock/ignition switch. This leaves a lug that is welded to the upper steering shaft. It will not fit through the bushing but it will fit through the outer sleeve the bushing is mounted in.

 

You should now be able to pull the upper column back a bit before the locking lug hits the upper bushing. Use this slack to act like a slide hammer to move the bushing out of the sleeve. It has two rubber nubs that fit into holes in the sleeve and you have to apply enough force to compress them or shear them off.

 

I don't recall it being particularly difficult to sit in the driver seat and pull back and forth briskly on the steering wheel to get the bushing to release and slide out. It does take a fair amount of force to get it started moving.

 

Attaching a ratcheting strap to the hub and to a board across the roll bar as suggested should work as well. It never occurred to me to do it this way.

 

Call me at 303 661 9914 if talking about it will help more than reading the above.

 

Skip

[Boxologist]

Epilogue:

 

if u have a steering column with the igntion lock u must take off teh nut underneath the steering wheel, slide off teh hub from the splines, and then the column can then slide easily out thru the BOTTOM of the scuttle.

 

Doh!

[scannon]

Epilogue:

 

if u have a steering column with the igntion lock u must take off teh nut underneath the steering wheel, slide off teh hub from the splines, and then the column can then slide easily out thru the BOTTOM of the scuttle.

 

Doh!

 

Either the lower bushing came out really easy or wasn't installed in the first place. The lock lug is positioned between the two bushings (at least it was on my car).

[Kitcat]

Jon, et al:

 

Any chance you have some photos/diagrams that you could post detailing the critical bolts, column locks, bushings, shafts, sleeves, for steering wheel/column disassembly?

 

I have a non-working horn and am advised that repair can be effected only if the steering wheel & hub are removed along w/possibly the upper shaft.

 

Thx,

 

Mike

[scannon]

Mike,

 

There should be no need to remove the steering column as it is solid and the horn wire does not run through it.

 

If your steering wheel looks like the one below there should be a slider ring under the steering wheel hub with a spring loaded contact on the back of the hub to rub against it.

 

Remove the circle of screws on the front of the wheel to get the horn button out of the way, then remove the nut holding the wheel on the column and pull the steering wheel hub off. You may need to put the steering wheel back on the hub without the horn button to get enough leverage to get the hub off the column. Rock the wheel side to side while pulling back on the wheel.

 

The most common problem is a dirty slider ring, clean it off and the end of the spring loaded peg on the back of the steering wheel. Sometimes the spring can get weak or the peg dirty where it slides into the hub preventing it from making contact with the ring.

[MHKflyer52]

Man that sure was nice of Skip to pull his steering wheel apart to show and help explane for all of us non-electrical car nuts.

 

Thanks

[scannon]

Man that sure was nice of Skip to pull his steering wheel apart to show and help explane for all of us non-electrical car nuts.

 

Thanks

 

Actually, that one is a spare I bought used because it was a little larger in diameter than the original that came with the car. Before I got it installed another larger one came along and that is the one I am using.

 

All I had to do was pull it off the peg it was hanging on on the wall and take the pictures. Counting the extra Miata steering wheels there are 5 steering wheels hanging on that peg.

 

If anyone wants to buy it they can have it for $50 plus shipping.

[Kitcat]

Skip:

 

Thanks, that helps, I will give it a shot this weekend.

 

Mike

[TurboWood]

Has anyone installed a Works Bell quick release? How difficult would it be?

 

http://www.meteormotorsport.com/caterham/hardware/hardware/works-bell-rapfix-quick-release/131-327

or

http://www.tunersgroup.com/Online_Store/Works_Bell_Rapfix_II_Steering_Wheel_Quick_Release.html

 

Daniel

[scannon]

It will depend if the splines on the quick release unit match the splines on the steering shaft already on the car. One possible downside is the length of the Works Bell unit. It looks as if it will push the steering wheel a couple of inches away from the dash and closer to your body.

 

The quick release I have came with the upper steering shaft which matched the hub.

 

I like the easy on feature of the Works Bell. I have to look where the flat spot is oriented on the shaft before I can line up the wheel and install it.

[Bucknekked]

Hi folks. I just replaced my standard Caterham steering wheel with a Momo quick release. Scannon's instructions were spot on. A half hour and job complete. The most time consuming was removing the steering wheel from the existing shaft to retrieve the upper bushing. A BFH and large punch removed the wheel from the shaft. Bingo! bushing. Reassambly is a no brainer at this point. Also an extra set of hands to lift the mating shaft in the engine bay is helpful.

 

Cheers, Jeff

[TurboWood]

In case anyone is interested I discovered Sevenspeed sells the works bell unit setup for the Caterham (http://www.sevenspeed.co.uk/products/rapfix-racing).

 

From searching around the internet I found one post claiming this hub moves the wheel away from the dash about 1cm. I'm a newb, but that sounds manageable.

 

Daniel